Whiteys Blue Toilet Of Win (Contains Charlie Sheen)

111843 Views 960 Replies 83 Participants Last post by  MinIan
******'s Blue Toilet

Factory Spec
▪ Full Hyper Blue
▪ 2005 Reg
▪ 34,000 Miles
▪ 1 Previous Owner
▪ Chilli Pack
▪ Visibility Pack
▪ Full Leather Interior
▪ MFSW/Cruise Control
▪ Harmon Kardon w/ AUX Input
▪ Anthracite Interior


◊ KW Variant 2 Coilovers
◊ Vorshlag Camber Plates
◊ Whiteline 20mm R-ARB, Stock F-ARB
◊ Powergrid Adjustable ARB Endlinks
◊ DMV Motorsports Adjustable RCA's
◊ CyberSpeeds Roll Center Spacers
◊ M7 Upper Brace
◊ OMP Lower Brace
◊ Powerflex Front Wishbone Bushes
◊ Powerflex Lower Engine Mount Inserts
◊ Powerflex Gearbox Mount Inserts
◊ Powerflex Rear Trailing Arm Inserts
◊ Vibra-Technics Upper Engine Mount

◊ Newman Cam
◊ Dave.F Intake
◊ JCW Cat-back
◊ KAVS 15% Pulley
◊ RMW Header Tank
◊ Bosch 550cc Injectors
◊ Mynes Bytetronic Tune
◊ Aquamist HFS-2 Water Injection
◊ Blueflame 4-2-1 Manifold w/ 200cpi Cat
◊ APS 13-row Oil Cooler & Mocal Thermostat

Wheels & Brakes
◊ BBS RG-F 16x7 ET35
◊ Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 (215/45/16)
◊ TPI 5mm Front Spacers
◊ Stud Conversion w/ Muteki Nuts
◊ R56 Front Brakes
◊ HEL Braided Lines
◊ Motul RBF600 Fluid
◊ Nitrac 8-groove Front Discs
◊ Performance Friction Z-rated Pads

◊ VW Sharan Antenna
◊ GP Rear Bumper Trim
◊ Dechromed Rear Lights
◊ Speedtech Rear Wiper Delete

◊ Scangauge II
◊ Rear Seat Delete
◊ Whalen Gearknob
◊ Cravenspeed Gauge Pod
◊ Cravenspeed Short Shifter
◊ Recaro Pole Positions (FIA)
◊ JCW Alcantara Gear Gaiter
◊ JCW Alcantara Handbrake Gaiter
◊ JCW Leather/Alcantara Steering Wheel
◊ Innovate MTX-D Combined Oil Temp/Pressure Gauge

◊ Innovate MTX-L AFR Gauge
◊ Aero skirts

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Haha, tis all dirty atm from the hooning last night, will take some after i clean it at the weekend.
Dirt FTW!
Fitted the cabrio braces yesterday...well, more or less.

Absolute PITA, the top screws go in fine and easy enough, but the bottom ones are a bastad! Can't get to the ones on the outside edge of the engine frame, arch liners are in the way. Had to get the lighting/horn etc harness out of the way on the passenger side which involved unbolting one of the aircon purge/refill pipe holders and lighting harness holder which is a bitch in itself due to the awkward angle and lack of space. Going to have to take the arch liners off to get to those last 2 bolts. I'f I'd have known it was this much hassle I would'nt have bothered!
Do they look like they'd foul up an engine removal? Debating whether to weld / rivet them onto mine.
drop links are easy as feck, you lot are muppets, 17mm ratchet spanner + 3/8th's with 5mm allen socket in = job done
Mole grips make it twice as easy again
Solution...remove just the middle of the lip. Speed bumps did it for me.

Par exemple...

See the lower centre "cutaway" part of the aero bumper, just remove the lip from under that, and leave the left and right parts

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The lip is part of the bumper, and not a separate piece. There are however pieces that connect to the lip, which in turn connect to the plastic panel under the engine to keep everything together (removed on mine)
fnearside brake line which took shit loads of penetrating oil + fire to crack. i fucking love my propane torch.
I hope you realise brake fluid is highly flammable :lol:

Can someone clear up whether I need to drop one of the fuel tanks or something to drop the rear subframe?
Remove the line of bolts that holds the rear subframe up, but not the ones at the front of it. Use a prise bar to prise it downwards whilst your remove and reinstall the ARB. No need to fully drop the subframe. It's a piece of piss.

EDIT - not sure if that's the same way as the video, but it's how I did mine.
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The control arms can be removed without removing the strut, but the bolts on the subframe are a bastard and a half. I couldn't get enough leverage on them whilst on jack stands, so had to get a garage to attack them with fire whilst on a ramp.
What was the process you used for the oil flush with the ATF, derv etc? Keep meaning to give mine a proper flush through, but never get the time.

Following your recommendation on the rear trailing arms bushes, I went to fit some on mine, but bought the wrong ones FFS. Up to 05/2003 or 05/2003 onwards...mine's 05/2003, and typically needed the other set to what I bought.
Sweet, cheers dude. I know a garage who does an oil change for £20, so at that price it isn't worth getting dirty, but definitely need to get round to giving it a proper flush like this (103k+ miles), rather than just using an engine flush product.
Looks fresh!

Looking forward to seeing the W/M tank! It's something I need to look into, as I don't think the 1 gallon tank I have will be enough.
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