[marksutton3663]

My R53 has 70,000 miles on the clock, 20% reduced pulley, Gates belt, 550 injectors, larger intercooler, induction kit, magnacore leads, MSD ignition pack, hornet race exhaust system ( original cat remains in place) and a stage 2 map giving me 230 bhp on the dyno
I want to change the cam to put me nearer to 250 bhp. Don't mind lumpy idle and need the power band coming in on cam low down, up to 6000 revs.
Which is best fit for this job. Will eventually go big valve head, but a new kitchen for the wife is required first!!!
Also, fitting....being SOHC I assume this is not a difficult job for a decent mechanic?

 

[E-R53]

17%, Newman phase 1/2 with other mods similar gave me 235, the cam lets the engine work better at higher revs rather than lower as the oe cam restricts the engine further up the rev range.

More importantly, where was the car mapped?

Yes, they are an easy job with the right tools.

 

[marksutton3663]

It was mapped and injectors scaled in at Mapro Developments, Portsmouth.
As I said, without the cam is dynoed at 227bhp.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

PH1/2 or 1302461 if only using 6k,

you're not making 227 there are you,

clarify the target, 250 or 6k?

If it's 250 use the EW02 imo. You won't really need a BVH for that, just a better exhaust manifold and a proper map.

 

[marksutton3663]

Hi. I've not been one to over rev my cars, instead, shifting at peak torque. I'm very new to these engines and far more knowlegable with an old A series mini engine, so not sure of its limitations or adaptability. All I have done so far is add bolt on enhancements and a map. Now it's time for a few oily bits and a cam change seems the obvious place to start. BHP is just a number, but it's pure acceleration increase I am really after. Am I barking up the wrong tree? Should I be looking at gearing ratios more than power and torque? Nitrous? Or is that a bit too far!🤣🤣🤣. Car has been very well looked after, new clutch 2000 miles ago and has done a genuine 70,000 miles. " proper map"??? This implies I wasted £500 on the one I had done. That did include scaling in the 550 injectors and 6 runs on the dyno. Who would you recommend when/if I do the cam change to do a "proper" map?
Thanks for your advice.
Mark.

 

[NigelStap]

It sounds like you did have a proper map done. You will need it done again if you have a cam fitted.

 

[marksutton3663]

PH1/2 or 1302461 if only using 6k,

you're not making 227 there are you,

clarify the target, 250 or 6k?

If it's 250 use the EW02 imo. You won't really need a BVH for that, just a better exhaust manifold and a proper map.

250 bhp.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

Hi. I've not been one to over rev my cars, instead, shifting at peak torque. I'm very new to these engines and far more knowlegable with an old A series mini engine, so not sure of its limitations or adaptability. All I have done so far is add bolt on enhancements and a map. Now it's time for a few oily bits and a cam change seems the obvious place to start. BHP is just a number, but it's pure acceleration increase I am really after. Am I barking up the wrong tree? Should I be looking at gearing ratios more than power and torque? Nitrous? Or is that a bit too far!🤣🤣🤣. Car has been very well looked after, new clutch 2000 miles ago and has done a genuine 70,000 miles. " proper map"??? This implies I wasted £500 on the one I had done. That did include scaling in the 550 injectors and 6 runs on the dyno. Who would you recommend when/if I do the cam change to do a "proper" map?
Thanks for your advice.
Mark.

did you sort out the traction light coming on?

is it a facelift car?

 

[marksutton3663]

Not a facelift sadly, but will be fitting an LSD when time permits and gear ratios calculated. It was the EML that kept coming on. That was resolved by a new set of snoot boots as I suspect it was not gas tight. Cheap fix!! Makes a change. Looking forward to seeing what a cam change will bring !!!

 

[CarsOrBikes]

the thing with the gear ratio changes is that whilst it significantly changes the way the weight moves, you inevitably end up with lower early gear speeds and working hard at the lever getting away, well worth it though because the car gets quicker 'everywhere', partly depends on the motor it's connected to....

I can put an FD conversion with Quaife together and installed for £3k outright using a random donor box not overhauled in any way. I'm having the conversion to suit BKD made right now, alternatively I already have it for a later BKE/BKL box, I just had one done with a super finished helical cut, so a quieter version, just needs a donor box which I can sort out if you can't.

the FD's are a bit of a compromise because they're utilising the original ratios only changing the two pinions iirc 20/66 and 13/66, something like that, in the FL box 1st and 2nd are very low, 30/7k and 45/7k, if you have a different budget I can change the whole kit which will slightly lengthen the lowest gears but the overall drop per k will be a bit greater in top, the FD is enough for most realistically and there'd be no looking back, FL FD for example drops from 23.5 to 20/1krpm and with full SC kit is closer to 18, many would pull away in 2nd I guess with the FL FD, I didn't but it would suit the lazier start,

this is a daft road clip a customer took a while ago, this is a full kit that's straight cut with semi helical FD and dog engagement, not the noise some want but it is for others, gives some idea but not great, cars all look slow in these sorts of clips, subject car at the time was 232whp: Very short road vid 04/18 - YouTube (with fantastic brakes and sticky tyres), I'll do some other clips soon, as the car is 250whp at the moment and quite different, it may soon be more I think after the 14th (if it doesn't let go)....

as for torque, the 53 doesn't really make a lot of it, so sure, while HP is a number, if you have a motor with the right bits that can spin up and is built to carry more rpm with good performance on the way to that number, maybe with such ratio alterations, it of course changes what can be achieved in each gear, or in fact everything about the vehicle really, there's potential for them to really shift,

my current box is out being serviced right now so car has it's stock box, pretty soon will have something else going in and is always generally available for shotgun ride,

 

[marksutton3663]

Wow, a lot to digest. The thing is, the R53 is just a toy. Something for me to take out and enjoy vigorously. The integralle did it for me, as the 225 did, but in a different configuration. The mini is where my heart and history lies. The "you tube" clip pretty much sums up what I'm searching for. The performance, the whine of the straight cut gears....Perfect!!
Your invite to come over to experience is a very considered one and certainly one that I will be accepting.
I think by upping the power a touch ( cam change) and altering the gearing to allow for swifter acceleration and less top end would suit me just fine. I own a nice comfy car for my long drives away. The mini is for sprinting on the B roads. Brakes are G88, pfc zero pads and motul race fluid. So it stops!!
Your suggestion to build something that would make me smile for the amount stated seems very reasonable. The gearboxes, so I hear, are the weak point in the drive train. How true that is, I'm unsure.
I'll discuss in depth with you later but in the meantime I'll be on the lookout for a suitable donor box. Incidentally, the clutch on mine was changed just over 2000 miles ago by the previous owner at a BMW dealership. £1000
Hasn't had hardly any use, so that's a positive, but will it take the additional torque of what you suggest?

 

[Spirosr53]

17%, Newman phase 1/2 with other mods similar gave me 235, the cam lets the engine work better at higher revs rather than lower as the oe cam restricts the engine further up the rev range.

More importantly, where was the car mapped?

Yes, they are an easy job with the right tools.

Hello my friend. Can you tell me what compress does your car have; i have installed to my car the same cam and the compreess gets down from 160 to 125. I checked the timing marks and those are correct

 

[E-R53]

When I did mine I checked before & after & had 160/165 over all 4.