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F/L - facelift
 
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Discussion Starter #22
Ahhhhh, I see! (y)
See mine is the facelift, so 40 mph~4th gear~3K rpm and with the billy no make exhaust not helping you get the feeling of being in the wrong gear! ? You get the feeling BMW could have spaced the gearing better, not to the point of the old Ford type 9 sierra box, but you get the drift. And having not driven an early car I have nothing to compare to. ?‍♂
But I still get your argument for a different final drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So, with the gear set conversion the ratios are a bit longer, bunched together a bit, carried better by the F/D of course. However, the F/D on its own takes little away in compromise to be fair, my strange sense of logic says so at least haha. These cars even with power struggle to get much over 140mph in a sensible distance, they have the aero of a brick, and the reality of ever achieving that as it is, is slim on the road. If one did have the opportunity, the reality is it'd very seldom be sustained, and most people in a quick car would be using the ability to get there at all, to get there and back swiftly. So, knowing the cars are rarely mapped past 7.2k on a stock valvetrain and if the F/D is in a F/L box @ ~20/1000, it gives a top end of ~144 which the car can achieve significantly quicker, and easier, so less number chasing can still achieve great performance which actually makes them great value. It's worth considering that using tyres that correct the factory speedo over read effectively increases the F/D a touch. This performance is reflected everywhere, where number chasing is only at the top for some, 'x' HP, but where etc. A BVH vs F/D decision is a no brainer to those that understand what it does for a car. Acknowledging the downside, in the F/L box it's that 1st and 2nd get very short, as in 7k/30mph, 7k/45mph, but from 3rd on, you're away. So there's the compromise, start in 2nd maybe or shift out pronto. Fit it to a BKD box though which has really nice gearing anyway, the spacing improves leaving you busier with the gear lever still yes, but an epic car in terms of fun and performance for what the car is at the end of the day. The F/L box as it is, just isn't that good, I mean yes it responds better, but really if that's what people relate to in the fitting of them, then they would be chuffed to bits with a F/D conversion, if in their outgoing longer geared box it'd be night and day to a F/L box swap in terms of that response they like. Same principle whether shorter gears/shorter F/D isn't it but the way the two work have a different affect driving them. It may not compute with some people that a lower final drive can equate to a higher top speed in a shorter distance.

Engine? My cam isn't so lumpy really, it and the PH2 will run without a map, it will stall but like I've said before a simple idle lift takes care of that, then it's as docile as you like on the road. The limit originally was only 7.2 which was with a stock head. My limit was only raised further with the Catcam 1302469, to 7.6 and it only achieved 3whp, considering that cam is lumpy in comparison, it wasn't really worth the trade off in road manners imo but that's just me. I originally ran my cam in the car with a stock pulley and it was just a nicer car, hindsight says if I'd have had it mapped just like that but with the GP I/C perhaps, ARP rod bolts and head bolts maybe, 7.5krpm and fitted it with a helical F/D, and MFactory diff in a BKL box it'd be the perfect road car with the rear ARB it has, 215/45's, R56S front brakes, and some negative front camber with revised geometry, and the aluminium flywheel. I didn't originally expect mine to reach 230whp at all, I wasn't chasing anything, I just already felt there was a 3k hole in the engine's performance. It just did make it in this head. 216whp in a stock head with 7.2k was just a nice change, around 245hp, curiosity had me swap to the 469, then the 3/4 etc. Finding it pulls from below the 2krpm expected made it all the better imo. It's not the charger having enough by 5k, it's the stock Mini cam which is used in the One, or the GP. If you drove a Mini One you'd see what I mean, they run out of puff at 4-4.5k, yes they will rev round like any engine, but not doing much, even with a generic map giving Cooper power (basically full throttle) they only feel more alive because of the charger, but still wheezy (cam), others don't see it that way, plenty seems to think the car comes alive from 5k, I wonder if that's partly about a lack of experience with quicker things perhaps, if they think that's performance they'd be ecstatic if they had this stuff for their cars haha. Actually when I first ran the F/D it was with my cam, far from slow, rpm limited in top, with this head iirc. It's all that was ever needed on the road. Should have been like it from the factory like 215/45's ;O)

Enough rambling, I have a car for sale on fb to put engine stuff together for....
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Had some thoughts yesterday while the S was in bits all over the boss's workshop floor! ? Re the camshaft, how much are your EW02's? And are they made to order or an off the shelf item? In trying to make it better (yes, there's more powaaaa) it may be me, may be the DME still self learning because its only had the JCW file on it today but the 'hole' your on about is maybe more noticeable?? ?‍♂
Definitely needs open CAI now is got the KAVS on, heard the 'charger whine more today, It's never gonna beat a Delta S4 for 'charger whine but I bet it could get addictive. :devilish:
Gonna still be looking into heads but I want to do the chain when the head comes off (no noises, just precaution) so I'd do the crank pulley as well, get a Vernier cam pulley off GTT...…. in the meantime I'd just like to try the cam just because. (y) And I think the boss isn't gonna be having us back in work until the 11th May so I've a couple of weeks window to be there by myself and tinker.
Maybe a daft question but the cam pulley bolt isn't a stretch bolt or single use bolt is it?
 
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