MiniTorque.com banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Not 100% sure this is the right place for this but as above I'm after a set of 330's if anyone has a spare set/ no longer used set? There are a couple of sets on fleabay but for their condition I think they're a bit optimistic with their pricing. Could go spanking new non gen for £165 but they're billy no brand built in Covid central!
Any help appreciated, cheers. Andy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Are they standard Foucs ST225 injectors? If so I have a set of 5 (cleaned) with Oranje wiring adaptors (4).
No mate the ST injectors is my option B, apparently same flow rate, multi jet, impedance etc just newer.
To Mike and Astro, it's to give me a safety net if you like when I come to rape and pillage (some might say destroy) my standard S. Going to a -15% pulley, intake, Airtec (en route to me atm) scorpion 4-2-1 with 200 cell and Miltek cat back. Not decided to do with the head/cam combo yet.... initial thoughts were ported with big exhaust valve head and a PH2 but after seeing that photo of the one the guys got for sale on here I'm now not to sure on the cam.
See I'm in the motor trade so we get to know 'people' lol! so I've got 2 places I could go to get the ECU flashed for bigger injectors AKA JCW 210 map.
Then after all that's done and run in and I'm happy we'll take it over to Lohen and get the map fine tuned. The 550's route seems to be a faff, I know no one local with bytetronik that I could nick a base map off just to keep me going and not overfuel the f**k out of the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
From my experience getting the ECU flashed turned out to be a bespoke mapping service that cost me quite a lot more than I wanted, but the car is fuelling spot on. It’s still on standard injectors, hence having the ST ones left over. I’d say my map is in the same ball park as the JCW 210 map, but with a cam and 17% pulley.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Was initially going to go -17% but saw some figures yesterday that suggested you'd start overdriving the 'charger @ about 6000 rpm, not that I go everywhere on the limiter and if I were to get a bespoke map I certainly wouldn't up the rev limit, but I've got to respect the fact that a) I've got a 87k+ engine under the bonnet and b) money sadly does not grow on trees.
What money are you looking at for the injectors btw? Seen a couple of sets of fleabay, both sets untested but the cheapest was circa £48 and came as 5 injectors and rail.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,645 Posts
If the cam looks rough it may be an ancient one, some early ones weren’t great, no problem with current cams from Newman

Lohen can’t tune the 53

ByteTroniK you need a full access kit to load a base map from someone and 1320 would probably email you something I expect

Do you mean 380 injectors?

17% pulley works alright but brings heat, so 15 or 13 I’d consider, Airtec would be better with bigger pulley, heavy things, but only my2p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If the cam looks rough it may be an ancient one, some early ones weren’t great, no problem with current cams from Newman

Lohen can’t tune the 53

ByteTroniK you need a full access kit to load a base map from someone and 1320 would probably email you something I expect

Do you mean 380 injectors?

17% pulley works alright but brings heat, so 15 or 13 I’d consider, Airtec would be better with bigger pulley, heavy things, but only my2p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The guy hasn't responded to my query so I'm unsure? Go have a look it's in the buy section for £160 at first thought bargain then looked closer!
Well that's fucked that then! Big fancy dyno, Mini specialist and they can't even tune them! They're close too! :cry:
Yes mate 380cc injectors with eventually a -15% pulley, some form of head work and cam combo, full exhaust, intake and the obligatory airtec top mount. Don't wanna go front mount because I've got A/C and I don't want to loose it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
The guy hasn't responded to my query so I'm unsure? Go have a look it's in the buy section for £160 at first thought bargain then looked closer!
Well that's fucked that then! Big fancy dyno, Mini specialist and they can't even tune them! They're close too! :cry:
Yes mate 380cc injectors with eventually a -15% pulley, some form of head work and cam combo, full exhaust, intake and the obligatory airtec top mount. Don't wanna go front mount because I've got A/C and I don't want to loose it.
let me know if you want to buy my injectors from me, no hassle if not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,645 Posts
it doesn't look so bad at first glance, they're only £240 fitted from me new, make him an offer maybe, it is shipped though from the Netherlands, or certainly ask for some better pics if unsure, that nearest lobe looks odd but the rollers only use a portion of them.

some years ago Lohen wrote about having cracked the 53's ECU but never any more said, it'd be generic if they did anything now like most are, on that score all they do is the Bluefin, not a great thing at all imo no matter whether they might claim it has a map to use with a pulley or whatever. I'd go custom for your changes ideally or stick with a mild cam and an 11% with no map or JCW200 map and colder plugs, or a fast road cam and no pulley with colder plugs, or with an 11% and 380's with a JCW210 map etc, safer compromises. I'd fit a cam before a pulley though always.

you might get a better outcome with the GRS IC many seem to favour, or even the later Pro Alloy but fewer reviews on it, the Airtec is a heavy thing, popular but heavy, its saving grace is the seal around it helping it I think, if it was half the weight it'd be nicer haha. People reviewing it I think often have a gismo plugged in so they can see it's lower temp cruising about and claim a win, even if it's being driven on the daily commute on a dual carriageway lightly haha, push the car properly hard which is what these 'upgrade' parts are supposed to be able to handle and it might not be the same story, not like in the facebook tests of a couple of gear 'pulls' around the local roads but a proper test on track or similar push. The stock IC recovers faster, an area few consider maybe, same old arguments though with this stuff. Used Airtecs do come up for sale reasonably often. Basically the same part as people are using in hobo IC swaps like the MTC etc which have no upper surround or seal, although the MTC and others have the small end made too small but can be made to seal. People still claim a result with these which is lunacy, having lost the diverter and effect of the upper seal probably. Anyway, you didn't ask about that haha.

what are you aiming at for power or use?

If you want to make it quicker you can also do it through gearing, it's just more costly, although perhaps less so overall than some combinations of other items you might not need, or that may not contribute so much to actual performance, you can spend more chasing the last 20hp etc or you can do less and have more if that makes sense.

I'm the same re not willing to lose a/c for a front mount, or the low position of my oil cooler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Focus 380's and a 210 flash is a good shout. My car made 223hp with this combo and a newman cam on a 17% pulley (a long long time ago)
That's not to bad a bang for buck tbh. I'd be about 50hp up from what I've got now so unlike just an airfilter adding say 10hp you'd deffinately notice. (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Sean, tbh it has gone through my head that as a car the Cooper S is very undergeared and would benefit from a proper gearset/ final ratio in it. But as with everything on any car its a compromise, what you give with one hand is taken away with the other. So you could make the gears taller but it wouldn't feel as lively down low. And I suppose you could say the same about the engine, that one you've got with the raised limiter, big lumpy cam etc I bet is superb round Oulton, Seven sisters or Anglesey, but I can also imagine it being a bit of a mare round town. So I'm after a bit of compromise. I'm not after chasing huge power figures, look at the torque graphs...… standard charger has almost had enough by about 5000rpm, you can see the torque fall away on most.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,645 Posts
Sean, tbh it has gone through my head that as a car the Cooper S is very undergeared and would benefit from a proper gearset/ final ratio in it. But as with everything on any car its a compromise, what you give with one hand is taken away with the other. So you could make the gears taller but it wouldn't feel as lively down low.

And I suppose you could say the same about the engine, that one you've got with the raised limiter, big lumpy cam etc I bet is superb round Oulton, Seven sisters or Anglesey, but I can also imagine it being a bit of a mare round town. So I'm after a bit of compromise. I'm not after chasing huge power figures, look at the torque graphs...… standard charger has almost had enough by about 5000rpm, you can see the torque fall away on most.
So, with the gear set conversion the ratios are a bit longer, bunched together a bit, carried better by the F/D of course. However, the F/D on its own takes little away in compromise to be fair, my strange sense of logic says so at least haha. These cars even with power struggle to get much over 140mph in a sensible distance, they have the aero of a brick, and the reality of ever achieving that as it is, is slim on the road. If one did have the opportunity, the reality is it'd very seldom be sustained, and most people in a quick car would be using the ability to get there at all, to get there and back swiftly. So, knowing the cars are rarely mapped past 7.2k on a stock valvetrain and if the F/D is in a F/L box @ ~20/1000, it gives a top end of ~144 which the car can achieve significantly quicker, and easier, so less number chasing can still achieve great performance which actually makes them great value. It's worth considering that using tyres that correct the factory speedo over read effectively increases the F/D a touch. This performance is reflected everywhere, where number chasing is only at the top for some, 'x' HP, but where etc. A BVH vs F/D decision is a no brainer to those that understand what it does for a car. Acknowledging the downside, in the F/L box it's that 1st and 2nd get very short, as in 7k/30mph, 7k/45mph, but from 3rd on, you're away. So there's the compromise, start in 2nd maybe or shift out pronto. Fit it to a BKD box though which has really nice gearing anyway, the spacing improves leaving you busier with the gear lever still yes, but an epic car in terms of fun and performance for what the car is at the end of the day. The F/L box as it is, just isn't that good, I mean yes it responds better, but really if that's what people relate to in the fitting of them, then they would be chuffed to bits with a F/D conversion, if in their outgoing longer geared box it'd be night and day to a F/L box swap in terms of that response they like. Same principle whether shorter gears/shorter F/D isn't it but the way the two work have a different affect driving them. It may not compute with some people that a lower final drive can equate to a higher top speed in a shorter distance.

Engine? My cam isn't so lumpy really, it and the PH2 will run without a map, it will stall but like I've said before a simple idle lift takes care of that, then it's as docile as you like on the road. The limit originally was only 7.2 which was with a stock head. My limit was only raised further with the Catcam 1302469, to 7.6 and it only achieved 3whp, considering that cam is lumpy in comparison, it wasn't really worth the trade off in road manners imo but that's just me. I originally ran my cam in the car with a stock pulley and it was just a nicer car, hindsight says if I'd have had it mapped just like that but with the GP I/C perhaps, ARP rod bolts and head bolts maybe, 7.5krpm and fitted it with a helical F/D, and MFactory diff in a BKL box it'd be the perfect road car with the rear ARB it has, 215/45's, R56S front brakes, and some negative front camber with revised geometry, and the aluminium flywheel. I didn't originally expect mine to reach 230whp at all, I wasn't chasing anything, I just already felt there was a 3k hole in the engine's performance. It just did make it in this head. 216whp in a stock head with 7.2k was just a nice change, around 245hp, curiosity had me swap to the 469, then the 3/4 etc. Finding it pulls from below the 2krpm expected made it all the better imo. It's not the charger having enough by 5k, it's the stock Mini cam which is used in the One, or the GP. If you drove a Mini One you'd see what I mean, they run out of puff at 4-4.5k, yes they will rev round like any engine, but not doing much, even with a generic map giving Cooper power (basically full throttle) they only feel more alive because of the charger, but still wheezy (cam), others don't see it that way, plenty seems to think the car comes alive from 5k, I wonder if that's partly about a lack of experience with quicker things perhaps, if they think that's performance they'd be ecstatic if they had this stuff for their cars haha. Actually when I first ran the F/D it was with my cam, far from slow, rpm limited in top, with this head iirc. It's all that was ever needed on the road. Should have been like it from the factory like 215/45's ;O)

Enough rambling, I have a car for sale on fb to put engine stuff together for....
99303

99304
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deavilly76

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Good luck with the mini (y)
I'll read your gearbox bit again but first what is F/L? Presuming F/D is final drive?
I can deffinitely relate to your experience, 2K 'till about 4.5~5K comes and goes then the engine develops asthma! ?
The 1st Golf and Saff Cos I owned and built the engines for didn't have this problem because they both had head work done and cams in.
The supercharger thing.... sure I seen a post on here with an efficiency table, stock crank pulley but with all the reductions possible and when they start to get into inefficiency, like taking a turbo off a 3 pot ecoboost and nailing it to some big 6 banger and asking for 3 bar of boost. :unsure:?? (over exaggeration but you get the point)
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top