[mossy4015]

Can anyone tell me the best (OEM) vanos solenoid to buy, I bought a couple of cheap ones but I’ve wasted my money. (Original Mini are far too expensive)
I have 09 Mini Cooper (N12) non “S”

 

[Astroboy]

Are you sure the solenoid is at fault. N12's drop valve seats with alarming regularity. This manifests itself as rough running when warmed through (fine when cold) which smooths out when the vanos is disconnected

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[mossy4015]

Are you sure the solenoid is at fault. N12's drop valve seats with alarming regularity. This manifests itself as rough running when warmed through (fine when cold) which smooths out when the vanos is disconnected

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It runs ok when cold, when it warms up it cuts out on idle ( traffic lights etc) then if I turn off the ignition completely for 10 seconds then restart it, it runs perfectly and won’t cut out.

 

[mossy4015]

It runs ok when cold, when it warms up it cuts out on idle ( traffic lights etc) then if I turn off the ignition completely for 10 seconds then restart it, it runs perfectly and won’t cut out.

On the OBD it says exhaust vanos.

 

[Astroboy]

Try swapping the inlet and exhaust vanos and see if the problem moves before buying anything. They are the same part

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[mossy4015]

Try swapping the inlet and exhaust vanos and see if the problem moves before buying anything. They are the same part

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Do the symptoms I have described relate to a valve seat drop? Like I said if I turn off the ignition for a few seconds it runs fine.
many thanks for getting back to me, much appreciated.

 

[Astroboy]

It can do as the heat in the head dissipates and the valve seats lock themselves back in place. Try the vanos swap first though before worrying about the seats

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[mossy4015]

It can do as the heat in the head dissipates and the valve seats lock themselves back in place. Try the vanos swap first though before worrying about the seats

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Just one more question, I was thinking of getting a febi vanos if they are faulty, do you recommend these? Once again thank you.

 

[mossy4015]

Just one more question, I was thinking of getting a febi vanos if they are faulty, do you recommend these? Once again thank you.

I’ve looked for Delphi, but they don’t seem to make them any more.

 

[Astroboy]

I've never had any issues with any febi products, but to be honest I never bought one for the car I dealt with as the issue stayed in the same place when I swapped them over. I told the owner what I thought the issue was then they drove it about for a few weeks before it totally lunched itself

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[mossy4015]

I've never had any issues with any febi products, but to be honest I never bought one for the car I dealt with as the issue stayed in the same place when I swapped them over. I told the owner what I thought the issue was then they drove it about for a few weeks before it totally lunched itself

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Thank you, much appreciated.

 

[E-R53]

I’ve looked for Delphi, but they don’t seem to make them any more.

They do.

Genuine Variable Valve Vanos Timing Solenoid for BMW & Mini N12 N13 N14 N16 N18 | eBay

 

[mossy4015]

They do.

Genuine Variable Valve Vanos Timing Solenoid for BMW & Mini N12 N13 N14 N16 N18 | eBay

I can’t seem to find them.

 

[E-R53]

I just showed you a link to someone selling them on the bay of e if you look at the second pic you can read it on the socket.

 

[mossy4015]

I just showed you a link to someone selling them on the bay of e if you look at the second pic you can read it on the socket.
[/QUOTE
Ok, I’ll look now, just some sellers on the bay claim that they are original, but just Chinese junk.
Thank you for getting back to me.
Regards.

 

[mossy4015]

Thank you, much appreciated.

Hi again, I meant to say that the fault code is 2845.
Once again thank you.

 

[mossy4015]

Thank you, much appreciated.

I've never had any issues with any febi products, but to be honest I never bought one for the car I dealt with as the issue stayed in the same place when I swapped them over. I told the owner what I thought the issue was then they drove it about for a few weeks before it totally lunched itself

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Hi again, I meant to say that the fault code is 2845.
Once again thank you.

 

[mossy4015]

You are correct, they are made by Delphi.
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

 

[Miniwinnie]

Hi again, I meant to say that the fault code is 2845.
Once again thank you.

I have an automatic 2010 R56 with 50K on the clock, It has shown code 2845 from time to time and suffered occasional stalling at junctions. I checked all the easy things, oil level, VANOS filter screens and operation, vacuum pump and exhaust camshaft position sensor and all fine. With low mileage and careful use (wife owned from new) I felt the VANOS unit and timing chain should be OK. There was a slight sound of timing chain rattle but nothing like the death rattle people describe. So I changed the timing chain tensioner. Not too difficult, just remove the airfilter housing and throttle butterfly body and then its easily screwed into the back of the engine. Its just a spring loaded plunger which is also pushed by oil pressure and bears on the rear chain guide. The new unit had a much firmer spring than the old one. So now the code and stalling have gone and the engine is a bit quieter. I also swopped over the exhaust and intake VANOS solenoids just in case I had it wrong. The latter step is a no cost option if you are struggling, both units the same and would show a changed code if one solenoid valve is faulty. The tensioner was also a lot cheaper than a solenoid unit.

 

[mossy4015]

I have an automatic 2010 R56 with 50K on the clock, It has shown code 2845 from time to time and suffered occasional stalling at junctions. I checked all the easy things, oil level, VANOS filter screens and operation, vacuum pump and exhaust camshaft position sensor and all fine. With low mileage and careful use (wife owned from new) I felt the VANOS unit and timing chain should be OK. There was a slight sound of timing chain rattle but nothing like the death rattle people describe. So I changed the timing chain tensioner. Not too difficult, just remove the airfilter housing and throttle butterfly body and then its easily screwed into the back of the engine. Its just a spring loaded plunger which is also pushed by oil pressure and bears on the rear chain guide. The new unit had a much firmer spring than the old one. So now the code and stalling have gone and the engine is a bit quieter. I also swopped over the exhaust and intake VANOS solenoids just in case I had it wrong. The latter step is a no cost option if you are struggling, both units the same and would show a changed code if one solenoid valve is faulty. The tensioner was also a lot cheaper than a solenoid unit.

I’ve changed both vanos solenoids, new OEM, touch wood alls good at the moment. It was cutting out when stopped, when I turned ignition off and removed the fob for five seconds, restart it and it would run perfectly. Hopefully the two new vanos solenoids have sorted it.
Thank you.