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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
Smaller update this time, waiting for deliveries... again

Decided to de-chrome the door handles, seen people removing the handles with a small flat blade without taking off the door panels, but didn’t fancy breaking the clips so did it properly.



Removed, deciding I’m not re-fitting the door panels - they were scuffed and damage anyway.





Same process as before but these came out really well! Getting better at this painting malarkey.



Alarm housing blown in... because, why not.



Decided to exploit the oil cooling, ordered AN-10 fittings and stealth Nylon lines from Torques on eBay, the quality of these are really good. And a huge range of choices - very Impressed.

Note. Went for the ‘Ultraflow’ option on the fittings which I will show closer later on.


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Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)


Access to these pipes wasn’t too bad!



Removed the oil/heat exchanger, good thing too as the seals were like plastic. New seals to go on... awaiting the take off plate currently.



Out with the airbox and piping to gain access to heat exchanger piping. Now there was no way I was dropping the subframe to do this so knew this was gonna be fiddly.



Swapping this t piece around and removing the 4 way piece completely and replacing with a 2 piece pipe the metal pipes are seen below.



The metal pipes were actually very corroded and the coolant in the pipes did not look blue (considering the system has been flushed a few times in my ownership).

Probably because this is the lowest part of the coolant system. I would advise taking these off and cleaning if the subframe is down and you are keeping the exchanger.



Glad to get these off. It was a bit fiddly but completely doable, there only one 10mm holding the pipes on also.


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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)


It’s here! Was like a kid at Christmas opening this. Did some research and went for the 13 Row 330mm, believe this is the same size as the Airtec kit.

I didn’t chose the Airtec kit as wasn’t happy with the feedback given on the lines, so thought I’d make my own custom setup.



Marked and measured, exactly in the middle of the crash bar with some riv-nuts.





I wanted to run the lines into the front panel away from the bottom pulley, found a crevice and a gap, although the protruding corner had to be modified to fit both the hoses when the slam panel was fixed.



So as seen above these are the ‘Ultraflow fittings by Torques’ notice the thickness of these joints in comparison to any other. Retaining the diameter from the hoses, I liked the idea of these.



Cooler all mounted, Awaiting further parts.


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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
What you see below has come from an E46 M3 from someone who was breaking. Being part of the m3cutters forum was handy and made it easy to find one of these. But it’s only the master cylinder I am after.

With the R56 S front brake setup I have never liked the poor feel you get for the first half of the pedal. A few people have done this conversion and said it’s amazing so thought while I’ve got time on my hands I’ll give it a go.





With the original master cylinder removed these two pictures show you the visual differences, mini being the bottom and M3 above. The M3 cylinder is slightly longer probably because of the larger piston stroke.



So to do this conversion you will have to do swap the mini fluid reservoir onto the M3 MC. This involves running a M5 x 0.8 tap through the other side and swapping over the rubber seals that it seats on.



And then a countersink to suit the securing reservoir bolt.



There are two DSC pressure sensors on the M3 master cylinder now the first one will have to be removed and either blanked off with a M12 x 1.0 bolt which I could not get quickly, so I decided to modify the pressure sensor. I cut it off and got it filled with weld.




And then ground a slit in it so it could be secured tight with a few wraps PTFE that I was happy it wouldn’t fail. But this shall be checked and tested regularly.



This is where the spacer will sit, the picture above was with a 6mm hex bolt inside it, this is not what was used so disregard that being inside.



And then finally making a spacer for the end of the master cylinder where this goes inside the brake servo. This is too take up the difference in length from where the MC meets the servo if bolted up and the distance from when the servo engages.
The M3 MC is about 2-3mm shorter. So if a spacer is not used there will be some slack in the pedal before the brakes come on. This is trial and error and actually took a good few hours to get right.

If the spacer is too long the brakes will bind. So be patient and take your time! I used an M6 countersink bolt and then a 9mm countersink to match the servo.



There it is, fitted, and very snugg against that cowl panel. The brake pipes will require bending slightly to but nothing major. Just needs to be bled properly now, can’t wait to try this out.


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Discussion Starter #85


Few bits from Orranje, parts bill is starting to rack up quite a bit now.



No good having an oil cooler without knowing what your pressures and temperatures are! T piece fitted into the housing retaining the original pressure sensor (which is useless anyway).



Contacted Earls motorsport to make me a custom braided line from the t piece to the innovate oil pressure sensor, very efficient service and helpful over the phone.



Oil temp sensor wiring coming up by the PAS pump and by the bulkhead as I thought this would be the least hassle when subframe needs to be dropped. 2 holes drilled above for line to go into behind the cowl panel.


New innovate pressure switch location, quite secure so shouldn’t move.



Gauge all plumbed and wired in, thought it was a good idea to keep the right hand vent on my face especially on them warm track days without aircon. And if you have a black car you’ll know exactly what I mean



So this is how the interior currently looks, starting to take shape.


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Discussion Starter #89
Following on with the cooler install here’s a few more pictures. Airtec billet take off plate with some AN-8 to AN-10 fittings to match the custom lines.




Spot the new parts!



Piping routing, looks a lot closer than it is in this picture. Anyway I was happy with it, tucks just behind the arch but no where near any pulleys.

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Discussion Starter #90


I’d wanted a bigger scoop for some time and liked the Atomspeed design but wasn’t keen on the poor quality people had been receiving. Finally a scoop which looked similar if not better and at a reasonable price.

Credit to Steve Farman on Facebook, these ‘Shark Scoops’ are great, the picture above is a comparison with the OE.



After rubbing down, painting, 1k clear coating and polishing I am more than happy with the result. Oh and a decent wash too.





Finally the tracks are started to open back up. Bit the long overdue bullet earlier on this week and purchased x4 Dunlop Direzza DZ03G’s.
From what I’ve heard the performance of these are the best of the best. Can’t wait to try them!


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Discussion Starter #91
I forgot to update on the MC [mention]Maccmike [/mention][mention]Fat Controller [/mention] absolute night and day with the original. One of the best mods I’ve done, it no longer feels like there is still air in the system.


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Strut tops finished, OMP brace on. Probably going to extend the bolts from the STA top mount eventually.
I have to do the same on mine sooner than later to be able to adjust the camber on the front. Would it be too much to ask if you could measure how much you had to cut on the strut top?
 

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I think the M3 cylinder is only about minimising the affect of R56S front calipers on the R53 system, causing slightly longer travel, I was aware of it but didn't mind the small amount of additional travel really, and once I fitted 6 pot Brembo's the pedal feel was restored anyway, and effort was never a problem, so it might not be necessary for everyone unless there is a low pedal after other brake mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I think you are right the R56S callipers seem to be the most affected by the poor pedal. Still a beneficial thing to convert either way!


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Discussion Starter #95
I have to do the same on mine sooner than later to be able to adjust the camber on the front. Would it be too much to ask if you could measure how much you had to cut on the strut top?
No problem at all bud, about 85mm across @ widest point.


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Thanks a lot! You have do some other things also that are on my list, will be following this closely :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
It’s been a while...

Time to tackle the exhaust system, this was just a quick fix to begin with when the battery box was deleted. Decat to a Miltek resonated centre to a R56 S back box.

I was never happy with it!









I wanted to mock a custom system myself as I had plenty of time to do so. So removed everything and measured. As I want a straight 3” single exit out the back with a round silencer I knew I would have to extend the centre section.



So decided to lose the decat link pipe completely and get a new resonator which would be 6.5” longer than the Miltek.


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Discussion Starter #98
I decided to use Robinson Race Cars in Hook for my fab, their work is second to none and they are only 15mins from my house. Andy was really helpful and honest. Great bunch of guys.



Here it is, not the best quality on some of the pictures as they are taken from a video, but you get the idea.

All the materials were sourced by myself from suppliers.

2.5” all the way through, 20 x 5” Centre resonator to a V band 2.5” to 3” reducer on a 12 x 6” Rear silencer with a 3” single straight exit out the back.

Unrolled & Unpolished, exactly what I wanted.








Not all of this was done in 1 visit, in fact the exhaust was fabricated without any hangers. The system could now be ‘test fitted’.

Hangers could then be marked accurately for the rear box.

Took the system back to so these could be welded into position. The system was then ‘test fitted’ again so that the positioning of the centre silencer hangers could be done correctly. Parts of the hangers were salvaged/extended off the old system.

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)


Always liked the idea of a flat floor and knew it would look cleaner so managed to acquire a pair of r56 panels. After chatting with [mention]el97 [/mention]it was clear some trimming would be required.



I decided the preferred way for me to do this would be across this point, there’s a nice straight edge and it ends just before the back legs of the front subframe!



Cut and filed down, almost looks like it was meant to be.



The other benefit of the flat floor meant that my the ducts to my GP2 diffuser would have something to meet up with to keep stability at the other end.

Although trimming is required as marked above. This is to compensate for the shorter rear end the R53 has in comparison, the new ducts have to be cut to avoid fouling on the LCA’s


Cut & Filed.



Had to do an emergency pick up on a rear crash bar from a very local breaker as the metal tab the rear bumper bolts too had broken off!

One above is in very good condition and still has the original part number on.





All finished, Amazed at the difference! Flat floor panels rivnutted with 10mm bolts and ducts all fixed properly, two 8mm undertray screws,fixings and clips to locate each duct.

Also removed the rear bumper inserts. Really pleased with the whole look, definitely worth it.


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