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all looking very tidy(y)

only issue with those camber joints imo is they prevent you taking advantage of the caster bushes for what they were meant to achieve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
all looking very tidy(y)

only issue with those camber joints imo is they prevent you taking advantage of the caster bushes for what they were meant to achieve.
Thanks Sean. The castor bushes have been fitted to bring the castor back to a neutral position as a consequence of fitting the camber joints. The advantage I’m looking for here is the additional camber without having to max out the top mounts.


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Thanks Sean. The castor bushes have been fitted to bring the castor back to a neutral position as a consequence of fitting the camber joints. The advantage I’m looking for here is the additional camber without having to max out the top mounts.


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what's the advantage you see in not adding camber from the top when you have it available?

I've still to fit my caster bushes, had the things for years 😂, I think I'd prefer to have them help add some in turns over running it all the time in a straight line which I have now, it's affecting stuff so will get round to putting them on sometime.
 

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Nice work, makes me want to do mine while it's SORN.

I can recommend the Orranje sump guard, protects as much as possible underneath and cleans up the aerodynamics a bit, very resistant to rocks, uneven roads and badgers/deer

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
what's the advantage you see in not adding camber from the top when you have it available?

I've still to fit my caster bushes, had the things for years , I think I'd prefer to have them help add some in turns over running it all the time in a straight line which I have now, it's affecting stuff so will get round to putting them on sometime.
I’ll be looking at running around -3.5 negative camber with slicks and the top mounts will max out before that so it gives the option to go further.

I am looking forward to the improvement on track big time!

Update: my BBK has been shipped and the car is now insured. Not long until she’s back on the road


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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Nice work, makes me want to do mine while it's SORN.

I can recommend the Orranje sump guard, protects as much as possible underneath and cleans up the aerodynamics a bit, very resistant to rocks, uneven roads and badgers/deer

Sent from my HRY-LX1 using Tapatalk
It’s so handy when you are not using the car to just crack on with a big overhaul.

I have wondered if the sump guard is any good, have you got any pictures of it fitted?


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Thanks Sean. The castor bushes have been fitted to bring the castor back to a neutral position as a consequence of fitting the camber joints. The advantage I’m looking for here is the additional camber without having to max out the top mounts.


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Amazing job here mate! Keep it up.

What top mounts do you use with the KWs out of interest?
Did you find the top mounts made the ride firmer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Thanks bud. It’s the ST XTA kit so the top mounts come with the coil overs.
If anything the ride still feels very OEM and I have the rebound set to near the maximum on both axles. The rears have the stiffer springs from KW and it still feels a bit soft for me.


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It’s so handy when you are not using the car to just crack on with a big overhaul.

I have wondered if the sump guard is any good, have you got any pictures of it fitted?


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Here's a couple, it does cover a large area. Just make sure the threads are clean at the rear of the frame ideally add rivnuts for the outer mounts. It probably sits a little higher than the aero flap that hangs on the rear of the subframe normally.


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Bugger
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I’ll be looking at running around -3.5 negative camber with slicks and the top mounts will max out before that so it gives the option to go further.
Actual slicks or Semi Slick R Compounds?

If your planning on running full slicks your going to snap those road struts like twigs with the force feedback slicks give.
Your going to need a damper thats a bit more substantial and a spring that can push the load into the slick (mini challenge R53's were running around 14kg per corner spring rates in the dry.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Actual slicks or Semi Slick R Compounds?

If your planning on running full slicks your going to snap those road struts like twigs with the force feedback slicks give.
Your going to need a damper thats a bit more substantial and a spring that can push the load into the slick (mini challenge R53's were running around 14kg per corner spring rates in the dry.)
Actual slicks. I was planning on upgrading to a set of clubsports or AST next. Even the XTA with the stiffer rear springs I’ve got are still pretty soft! But yes you’re right higher spring rates will be required.


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Bugger
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Actual slicks. I was planning on upgrading to a set of clubsports or AST next. Even the XTA with the stiffer rear springs I’ve got are still pretty soft!

But yes you’re right higher spring rates will be required.
Springs won't help you with slicks on twig spec damper shafts. Clubsports are also over priced V3's and not ideal for slicks.

If your intent on running slicks something like Bilstein Clubsports (which are similar to the mini challenge ones that ran slicks) or BC RM's would be a better bet.

Having said that you're far better off sticking with semi slicks or something like a Cup2 in a 215-45-17. Even the slightest bit of rain and you're done for with slicks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 · (Edited)
Update: Subframe went up pretty much straight after the overhaul, hubs and struts back in everything looking nice and fresh.



Stud & Nut kit fitted from Orranje to make swapping of wheels easier in the future.





Front bumper went back on...


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Discussion Starter · #237 ·


Extended studs looking much more appropriate from up top.



One set of wheels picked up, used but in very good condition from a friend of a friend.

As these are my only set of wheels at the moment I’ve wrapped them all in MPS4 boots


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