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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
A check of the roller bearings on the tripod [mention]CarsOrBikes [/mention]



Too messy to take pictures up close but happy with the condition - they are all there and free rolling.



It’s not always necessary to replace these clips. Opening the clamping section in a vice makes re-fitting these easy.




As long as it clamps flat, tight and the tag is pushed down ofc.


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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
A new sump, new gasket which was leaking, Karl’s baffled plates (which I’ve had lying around) & some Viton rubber gates.



As welding needed to be done for the plates it would be rude not to get a temp sensor boss welded in so that I can refit an oem sump plug.



I might as well change the oil again too.



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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
A 15mm nylon M6 spacer to accommodate the new hoses - it’s the little things that count.



A clean up of the forever filthy PAS cap and a new o-ring too.



Currently waiting for deliveries before everything can go back together.


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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
Sorted the nearside dodgy number plate light which would only go off over bumps.

What appears to be an ok connector with locking tab in place...


Is not at all once locking tab was removed - all 3 pins were very corroded.



Had some spares so re-pinned the connector.



Looking at the state of the old gasket it was probably the cause, letting moisture in over time. New one was a very reasonable £8.


Ready for re-fit.



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So much work done! love this build and hope to be doing some of the bits youve done myself in the very near future...
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
So much work done! love this build and hope to be doing some of the bits youve done myself in the very near future...
Cheers, projects threads are handy for exactly that


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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Brake cooling setup:

Something I’ve wanted to do for a while and thought now is the perfect time. Ordered some high temp hose, jubilees and aluminium outlets as had an idea in my head on how this could work.



Firstly the rad housing would have to be cut to accommodate the ducting once the liner goes back in.









Quite a lot of the rad housing is removed - my worry was more so on the pulley side as it’s a VERY tight fit in comparison to the gearbox side as shown above.


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Discussion Starter · #211 ·


So I offered up the arch liners, and cut out the hole for the outlets to where the ducting would join.



The ducts would be cut to the correct length to ensure it is tight so there isn’t and risk of the ducting fouling on the pulleys.





All joined together and went to plan! I am pleased with the outcome, hopefully it performs well.


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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
Thanks lads, car is all back together now. Will upload pictures of progress when I get some free time!


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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
So after waiting over a month the tie rod assemblies/ gaiters and wheel bearing kits had arrived from AUTODOC (brexit delays). This meant I could crack on with the subframe and put the car back together.



The brands chosen are pretty much identical to what’s supplied from factory but without the premium.
The amount of play in the tie rods was VERY surprising. The front end is going to feel brand new.


Some would say this is unnecessary but I had some lying around so I recoated the inside of the subframe with cavity wax, in the event the subframe does stone chip this should guarantee some extra protection.


The lower steering column gaiter had split and come and the subframe was visible from inside the car. Replaced with a new one, all nice and snug.



PAS fan cleaned and rusty screws replaced with some spares, mild ocd kicking in.


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Discussion Starter · #216 ·

Steering rack bush, probably never going to notice the difference between this and and the OE which doesn’t wear but I decided to replace it anyway.


Decided to go for a genuine engine mount, I spotted this at my local breakers on one of his subframes it’s pretty much new. Super pro inserts fitted.



Super pro offset castor bushes, these have been purchased in conjunction with the Powerflex PFF5-132G additional negative camber inner lower arm ball joints. The ball joints increase the negative camber -1.25 degrees. These offset castor bring the castor back to neutral after fitting the ball joints.


Been meaning to change for a while, ever since I fitted my engine strut brace the length of stud was very short.
I found out KW sold extended studs so contacted them direct and purchased 6, these had to be pressed in and out using the hydraulic press at work.




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Discussion Starter · #217 · (Edited)


Time to reassemble the hubs, I actually ended up coating the new wheel bearings in hammerite to prevent future rust.



Re-tapped all the subframe mounting bolts as the sand from blasting tends to get trapped in the threads.



Front hubs re-assembled, nice and shiny.


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Discussion Starter · #218 ·








Fully rebuilt and everything torqued to spec. Looks amazing, I did take a lot of pictures knowing that it will probably never be this clean again!

Also finally got to fit my 16mm Mini One FARB.


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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
Thanks [mention]Maccmike [/mention] I am thinking of retrofitting a full engine undertray, off an R56 or similar to protect the subframe. Not sure if anyone has done this yet.


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