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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, thought I’d start a build thread more so to document the whole build from start to present.

Purchased this little gem last week,
2005 Cooper S with 80k on the clock with the Chilli pack and LSD from factory.

The car is SORN until the summer but is mainly going to be used for trackdays. Looking to do my first proper track day at Bedford Autodrome.

Got some definite plans for the car over the next few months, have already stripped out everything back from the front over the weekend.





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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah plenty of useful information on here and seem to be a good bunch of guys


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Discussion Starter #5
Coilovers probably APs
Team dynamic 16s on AD08
Polybush where necessary (undecided how far to go yet)
Spacers
OMP steering wheel
Bucket seats (undecided) 3/4 point harnesses (undecided)
Already carried out AC delete
17% lightweight pulley
Orranje airbox with silicon hose and K&N filter

AirTec intercooler and remap later on down the line

This is off the top of my head currently, I’ve stripped out everything back from the front seats which will be for sale.

Will post some more pictures on the weekend



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Spacers? Why not just buy TDS that fit? You could buy them in thousands of different spec combinations last time I checked.


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Discussion Starter #7
In all fairness TDS were only added to the list today but suppose you’re right I’ll look into it!


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I'd be inclined to fit a 15% pulley and add a good cam
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What’s your reason behind this? Surely 17% and then add a cam later down the line


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2006 R53
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Just my opinion, but it's down to how you are planning to use the car. If you're planning a lot of track time or sustained hard use then I'd say go for 15% or even 11%. If you're using it on the street for short sprints then 17%. It's all down to the extra heat adding a pulley generates. Look at the GRS intercooler as an alternative to the Airtec, it's a better item for not a lot more
Pulleys put stock injectors on the ragged edge so factor those in somewhere as well
 

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I have a 17% and use mine on road and track, it causes heat clipping in places despite shedding heat very quickly via a GP I/C. You or I might still lose out with a 15% too but the power you save by clipping less and turning things that bit slower, plus the power you'll gain with a good cam, it will help significantly with a more flexible range of power especially on track.

I will be going to 15% myself on both cars at some point soon enough.

The cam on the Cooper S is the same as on a Mini One and those run out of puff at 4-4.5k although like any other engine they still rev out, but not with any real gusto. The S engine is pushed round the rpm scale by the charger masking the cam's lack of performance somewhat, I think if a cam can turn a N/A One into a 135mph car that can out drag a Cooper and keep an S honest pulling harder to 5.5 or 6k, it may help picture an S with said cam that has the benefit of a charger too? This is why I fitted one first. It livened the car up from the off and went on to take it to 230whp, arguably so would the pulley have had I fitted it in reverse order, except fitting the pulley first masks some of what a cam does for the engine in my opinion, that's all.

I'm not saying you should do it first particularly but your post didn't mention a cam at all. I believe getting the valves to open further for longer and close later is making better use of the air available and should be better than forcing air into somewhere it can't be used efficiently due to a stock cam design, so in my opinion it's a foundation part that's selected for the use the car will be put to, that can be built upon and even amplify the effects of subsequent changes.

Black cars are faster too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cheers for the detailed response. I Suspect the cam listed on Orranje is the one to get? Although there is a choice of two for the r53 the Newham or Cat can anyone had any experience?

Is the ARP Cam sprocket bolt necessary or will a new OE bolt do just fine?

Also I see they do a lightweight pulley now, go for the 15% lightweight instead of normal or no good?

(Just creating a wish list)


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I'm sure we've all a wish list still,

ARP is stronger and re-useable so always better,

They started selling the lightweight interference pulley (I think it's that they refer to) but can't actually fit it so really you're better off in my own opinion, sending the charger to GTT and getting them to fit their 15%, interference fit is the original factory way so no risk of charger shaft damage which does happen. Another one on here in the last week or so. FYI GTT were the original and only people producing these and fitting them.

Cams, one is the Newman PH2 which is a good fast road cam with decent idle manners and pulls from quite low and cleanly to 6k+ before tailing off, the Catcam that people talk about most is the 469 which is a rung above the PH2, it has a bit of a lumpy idle and is best used with a remap very shortly after really so will stall a fair amount until then, it pulls from a bit over 2 and is stronger than the PH2 between ~5-6 I'd say and goes on cleanly to 6.5+ before tailing off a bit. I have a Kent cam that is between those two, similar idle to the Newman PH2, a bit more hunting which is rhythmic and ideally also wants a 50-100 rpm added to avoid stalling when manoeuvring, this is very slightly weaker than the 469 around 5 but pulls from a bit lower so good in town but runs to 7+ we didn't get it to tail off when run to 7.2 and the graph was still climbing @230. I'm just about to test this again for the last 400rpm if I get round to it, I don't think there's much to gain, 3-5 maybe (the 469 gave 3).

Then there is the Newman PH3/4 which is really quite a lumpy cam you'd not necessarily get on with on the road in heavy traffic all the time, but with a proper map it will steady out and will be fun away from city centres, this will pull from nearer 3k and pull quite hard to 7+ before tailing off, this might benefit from an adjustable cam gear that is available online and you could start the cam a touch earlier if preferable or adjust it's peak etc. All engines are different and this is considered a competition cam. I'm about to fit one myself and already have one in the other car on an adjustable gear but I haven't run it yet. This would work well with my shorter final drive on track (or road) where you could chase down all sorts. (rev limiter limited!)

If your driving is mostly town and you just want to improve the spread of power and torque or don't actually like the engine revving high, as some people don't like the noise etc. then you might prefer the mild cam options, so a Newman PH1/2 for example, or Catcam 461, both similar.

On the other hand if you will be using the car as a weekend car or are happy to turn heads on the road and definitely will use the car for driving out of city centres for more than a few miles, and want a strong car for track playtime then the PH3/4 will suit you.

I can supply and fit a Newman cam of your choice outright for £320 plus bolt/seals as required or a Kent one I have here used in perfect condition for £360 plus bolt/seals, the latter is from a billet blank. If you want your charger removed and refitted I can do that for £240 plus carriage to GTT and OEM coolant plus oil kit with the car left here while it is sent away and returned for the pulley swap, then cleaned up and new BMW coolant added after the cooling system is rinsed out. If you want a new water pump you can have one fitted for no additional labour.

Cams I can probably swap while you wait fwiw.

I would advise some prevention work in regard to engine condition for the latter cam or food for thought with any big power hikes really when adding ~100hp. With a PH3/4 I would fit ARP bolts top and bottom, plus recommend a head gasket change and new thermostat, also just a fresh set of big end shells will pay dividends, before fitting them I personally would lift the pistons and at least clean and inspect them at that moment and check the small ends. You can do more if you intend to exploit the upper end of performance more like add rods or a stronger piston set. That would be involved and from £1200 plus parts, engineering ~£200, oil, and OEM filter and seals etc. I'd encourage a similar check on the head components, re-lap all valves, new seals and inspect/clean etc.

You should really add an oil cooler before running the higher performance cams if not before.

If you would like to test cams, I'll fit any Newman, Kent, or Catcam from a selection of used excellent condition camshafts available for £360 plus bolt/OEM seals which I'll buy back within 30 days for £240 plus bolt/OEM seals, or exchange for another for a further £120 and reset the 30 days. Either swap, keep, revert.

R50/R52/R53 cams are used with roller rockers, and rarely suffer wear such as with swept surface cams. You keep your displaced parts for disposal/refit/sale etc. OEM seals for the rocker cover generally accept being re-used.

Full diagnostic fault code check/clear/review or adaption reset £18 (option coding +£6)
 

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I'm being encouraged to make vids, they'd be epic ;O)
 

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Kinda, more the ten commandments maybe
 

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Ran a 469 to 7700 and it never showed any signs of tailing off. Blower was running out of steam though.


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