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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Unfortunately my R50 failed the MOT today, misaligned headlight beams and a worn track rod end
Headlights I can tweak, can’t imagine it’s a huge amount to adjust as not really noticed too much when driving at night.

However, has anyone experience of track road ends? I’ve bought the part and ball joint splitter, and I’ve got a 2 hour window to change it tomorrow which I’m hoping is sufficient.
I’ve had a look and with the surface corrosion noticeable, given it a good soaking with WD penetrating liquid for overnight

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Mini Cooper S R53 2004
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My R53 failed on headlights. They are easy enough to adjust, opening and closing the bonnet each time to see how much they have move is the worst bit.
When I had the four wheel alignment the track rod ends were seized on had to have a torch on them to get them to move. Hope you have better luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That’s the tool I bought from GSF 👍
I’ve got a lump hammer as well. Didn’t get chance today as work overran and it got dark, but hoping to sort tomorrow now
 

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2006 R53
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I managed to snap my screw type ball joint splitter the last time I used it and had to resort to using a pickle fork and extreme violence, which tbf was more fun


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If you use a lever or your splitter to put some downward pressure on the track rod end and at the same time hammer the side of the hub where the taper goes through then it should pop out. You should be able to position the steering so that you can get a proper swing at it. This has always worked for me.

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separating a rod ball joint is the easier of the two, use the lever type, or just hit the carrier while a lever is pulling down on the rod, separator is the better way instead of smacking everything but sometimes necessary, air hammers are the most amusing imo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All was going ok, til the bastard nut wouldn’t shift. Spent 40 mins trying to undo it before biting the bullet and limping the car to a local garage to borrow their MAPP torch to heat it up. Without the drama of the drive, would’ve been an hours work as the ball joint separated fine with the splitter but the Allen key point was corroded to death so made it hard to hold the ball joint while undoing the nut on the joint itself
But all done and MOT passed again!
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