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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yesterday I went to (hate to say it) Demon Tweeks for the second time, having been there a couple of weeks ago to just sit in a few seats and see what suited my 6'3" frame haha. They could have more there really, but I decided I quite liked the Recaro Profi SPG XL, the Sparco Rev 2, and the Cobra Suzuka Pro Fit GT with the low fit cushions. Yesterday I took Mrs CoB, out of interest to see what se may fit in. She's been on my case for being thrown about, so it does matter that she can be held in place, and I do understand I have a steering wheel to hold on to.

Another consideration has been the last two track days, one at Oulton, and one at Anglesey, where I have had a hard time myself staying in place, and so much load is being applied to the steering in a effort to keep just me still. A pal at Oulton was pretty much having to wedge himself between the seat and door, with legs wedged against the console pillar and dash in an effort to stay still haha, so it is a bit silly now.

Having booked Oulton for the 8th Nov, it's been on my mind. So yesterday after much pulling of a stuck wife from seats (haha) I made a crazy decision to just buy them new. I have been looking on and off for a couple of years for a deal, and decent seats get pretty close to new prices if in good condition, but considering other peoples sweat and instances where they may have left the track, you don't really know what you're getting. So the debit card was battered, wife present, no arguing or moaning, despite probably churning over all sorts of unspoken remarks she kept to herself. Great :)

The lad I spoke to was helpful, we added harnesses etc. He explained a few things and offered free next day delivery as it wouldn't fit in my car. Altogether a much better experience than I'd expected.

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Shortly followed by:
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I knew I needed to address the SRS system, and after researching correct ohm resistors required, with several threads found here with consistent info, thanks MT! I also read about the risks of being given the wrong ones buy a supplier. Here is where forewarned is forearmed, as I went to good old Maplins this morning to get some, but also asked them to verify the banding code as correct, which it wasn't! Rechecked several times, they were wrong.

Being wrong is no major issue, they have more, but had I trusted and fitted them wrong, this would result in a SRS light which doesn't usually self clear. They're going to send me some freepost, which I'll double check.

Never one to give up I came home the long way on my Moto Guzzi, via Cheshire Oaks Maplins, and did the same again there, leaving with colour banding and multi-meter checked resistors yay!

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These little fuckers haha

Now then, these will sort the SRS light, but! These are not fused, so in time I will swap them. Having read on as I do, it is now understood that if the SRS module send a signal to ignite the airbags, these bastards will blow as there is no fuse, and when they blow a fire is significantly likely. So before (or if you already have) you do this, bear it in mind, and buy the dearer fused resitors ready made or make them before assembling.

These are covered with the stickiest duct tape around haha, and away from view now, battery back on, tested a few times, and thankfully no SRS message as expected.


And vac'd ready for new toys :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Actually I have to say it's ok, big display of 'stuff' which could be better but only my opinion, but they also sell cycle stuff and baby stuff so display space has been given up to pushchairs and child seats haha,

The best thing is you don't get hassled, the counter staff will help on request, but essentially they leave you to look. They have a reputation for high cost, and have had for years, so I never ever go, same the likes of Halfords not that they have much I'd want ;O)

I'll go again to Tweeks, I am in the trade so pricing is a little different, but still, it wasn't bad at all, and if honest, worth a trip, it's on an industrial estate, can't remember if open Saturdays, and online they are also JJC Race and Rally for info. Good stock carried too.

Thinking on Lolly, if coming from Derbyshire, maybe don't make this the only destination, get your map out and head across to nearby Llangollen or something, over the Horseshoe pass to the Ponderosa maybe, and out into Snowdonia or surrounding areas and use the day, ace scenery, and some great roads/routes, not just the well publicised Evo Triangle, other better roads exist. Just a thought.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Well. they're in,

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I had bought sub-frames and runners but returned them, you guys might have used these but they weren't working for me. The side mounts actually weren't far off the OE floor mounting holes, so a little elongation and it was more sensible to bolt them in after much messing around trying to work out the point of the Sparco sub-frames. You'd need one subframe above another to make use of them. The wider part fit's the floor, but also the floor mount, the other side is narrower and totally useless. Considering how much they weigh they went back as it was only going to get even heavier.

The problem with me is I won't drill holes in the car, well not this 48k very nice car, and I also don't want to gut the interior, I'd prefer to retain a trimmed look, even if lighter.

I bought clip in 4 point Sparco road legal harnesses, which gave me the next issue, and that was anchor points for the front in particular. I had bought 2" eyelets to use for the front seat belt bottom mount, but there is a huge factory spacer below the OE belt, and the eyelet was still too short. I was never going to run without the 'B' pillar trim, so had to think differently.

I note the factory pre-tensioner is anchored to the seat frame, and as I have side mounts of the same thickness steel, and the sub-frames which included an attachment bracket for the pre-tensioners were now returned, I opted for using the short eyelets, fixed into the rear lower edge of the side mounts. Out came my magic 10mm drill bit, bit of adjustment, and small stress plates added.

I went to fit the seats having already had one in the car for a bit of a looksee, but no go. The eyelet protrudes too far and fouled the tunnel. As before, I'm not drilling holes, I know it's so obvious and I could easily add a stress plate at the tunnel and be done with it, but it ain't happening.

I took the clip on harnesses back and exchanged for bolt on.

Procurement of some smart washers from a very helpful local place, allowed me to ditch the lower anchor spacers, and use washers to space the belt anchor just enough from the steel side support so as not to pinch the webbing but meant a fixed position anchor. This is no problem as the belt is guided through the seat so it doesn't need to move anyway.

Some will say not to mount a seat belt to the seat, I hear you, but it's exactly how the factory did it, admittedly only one side, and I have done it both sides. However the rear is floor mounted.

Out came the Isofix brackets, and the bolts left in. The rear seat belt buckle was a twin with a shared mount, so the spacers liberated from the front seat anchors allowed me to use one on top of the other in order to have a stacked mount, free to move, and not fouling the webbing above/below. I bought three longer tensile bolts for this, and did the same for the outer anchors.

I'll add some other pics of the mountings when I can take some decent pics, combination of my eyes and poor light I think means shite images haha.

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I have some carpet ordered to cover the rear seat area, should be here tomorrow. Although the rear seat base isn't heavy, and I'd like to retain the rear seats really, ditching the sub-frames and going bolt in instead means no rear access unless leaving half the rear backrest in and accessing from the boot to a three seat car haha. Haven't figured out how I'm covering the base yet though.

I'm likely going to keep the parcel shelf, and make a board to fill most of where the seat backrest was, and carpet over it both sides, bolt it in onto the lower backrest brackets, and top latch mounts.

The seats themselves, 'just' touch the top of the door interior trim when the door is closed, and again 'just' touch the centre console at the front, plus the armrest does the same but still works fine.

The drivers seat is too far forward, and both are soooo much lower than OE haha, I have them in a slightly rear tilted position, cosy actually, will be better in winter, just need to adjust harnesses. WP_20171031_015.jpg
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Discussion Starter #6
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Discussion Starter #8
Roughly carpeted, don't like the bare metal look in this car haha
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Great effort on the seats and harnesses. You have certainly done that well sir!

How do you find driving it now, what with being much lower to the floor?

I quite like the lowest setting on the OEM seats, you have no view restrictions at all? Im 6ft and the side door cards feel quite high anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey thanks,

The passenger one is lowest, tilted back a bit, and as far forward as the floor mount will go, nice for most passengers, and even me at 6'3" as there're no pedals, (if I ever was a passenger haha). My seat is going to get lowered a touch more, it can't go back any further, but could go down one hole but the allen key bolt is the issue. Tool is fouled by the seat because it's further back, so I need to get another 6mm key and trim it down. Also the door very slightly fouls the seat, worse if dropped one hole, so I want to file out the holes in the floor mount a little more and see if I can get the seat a few mm nearer the tunnel, this is very tight though already. I'll do it soon, and worth it to try to prevent marks on the seat. I think they're great.

Driving? It's ace, a bit high for the above reasons but slightly lower than OE. I had the OE seat probably in the centre of it's height range. I could use an inch maybe two further back to give me some more reach and lower my knees.

I definitely notice the removal of the OE seat sponge haha, I quickly realised what it does for me over the bumps!! I'll tell you the other thing I noticed, is the effect of weight removal!! Wow, very noticeable on the suspension and acceleration.

On track it was just so different, I should have done it ages ago. A pal is a professional driver who has been with me round the ring a few times, and in my 968 years ago, he commented how I'd be better with a seat, I didn't think about it further until Oulton last February when I was almost sitting on the door round Lake? haha, now when I went on the 8th November, it just changed how I could be round the same bend (and others). If the organisers would have let me pass in the bends it would have been hilarious, so much more pace when not trying to keep myself still by loading the steering. This has been helped by fitting massive brakes too, I don't have to stand on them at all like before, these will lock with a moderate press.

The car obviously is less practical, I went with road legal harnesses but still, having to thread through straps to get down the road is a little silly, and I can't imagine sitting in it wearing a three piece suit haha. Anyway, just a few bits to tidy now.

On reserve list for Saturday so will see if an exhaust manifold swap changes it much (if I get a slot), but waiting for parts, and will still have to see if it fits without other alteration. It'll be the last of the track use consequences. I missed a gear up Clay Hill going from 4th to an intended 5th, but dropped the clutch in 3rd. If I hadn't had the harnesses in I can imaging face planting the steering wheel it arrested that badly! Slight crack now in the flexi, even with Vibratechnics gear it must have put a big strain on stuff. The other casualties were a very loose o/s wheel bearing, probably due to the stake nut coming loose, the n/s hub pinch bolt coming loose, and both the rear trailing arm main bolts also, especially the o/s causing play!!

Sorry to go on haha, all work in progress ;O)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I changed those mounts, now alloy fully adjustable and absolutely ace, ages ago now but just found this general thread again haha. Seats still foul the door cards but resigned to it now.
 

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A washer or two under each of the outer mounts will stop the seats fouling the door cards. You don't feel like you are sitting lop sided either
 

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30 months later and this gets glass! Yay!

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And the grille fitting, plus door handles, latches, regulator uprights and drop glasses, all factory sun protection glass, and heated front screen, rain/light sensor ready....

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and.... it got a GPS dash.... small but good, I don't need a big TFT screen, and this has all the MOT required warnings if I wish to enable them, plus it connects directly to the EMU ECU Master Classic.

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very slow progress but progress nonetheless ;O)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
might try that, already have them but to stop the supports pinching the carpet, so getting a solid clamp down. I'll start to look for a pair of mint cards I think, dents are very small but unfortunate.
 

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So that’s what’s been lurking under the tarpaulin!

I like the fuel filler on it, and the wheels
 

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Discussion Starter #17
haha, yeah, mostly under boxes, sheets, salvage bike parts, more boxes....

twin fillers ;O) nice these, left = petrol, right = water/meth, integral to custom 36l/8l divided 'in car' tank.

wheels are ok, yet will be going, these are BBS RC325 5x112 on 20mm (I think) hub converters, TD centre locks will be fitted instead.
 
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new addition yesterday,

next up for sale I think, once some Exclusive attention has been given to it,

This isn't a sale ad😂although it is notification I guess, it will be available soon.

I thought I'd put it here in the toy box for now, then people can see it get prepped if I remember to post stuff haha.

Registered 01.08.2006, 112k, current/last keeper 5 years, 6 former, with the previous having it just under a year. HPI clear.

It will get an LUK clutch, rear main probably, usual fairly intensive engine out clean, complete coolant flush, charger service, charger clean, water pump check and clean or renew if any signs of deterioration, new fan resistor, fuel filter, thermostat, big end shells minimum, service items including gearbox oil change, undecided on other stuff. Maybe a cheeky Newman PH1/2 haha, and Brisk or Porsche spec plugs I use. Then I might pull the head and lap the valves too. Who knows:unsure:.

It runs very quiet, just a bit of a clutch groan on take up, anything I do is really about prevention for the next owner mainly. It needs assessment.

A really nice totally original clean car this, with just a couple of cosmetic issues, scoop lacquer peel, and a little on the nsr quarter, but that also has a blister under the rear lamp so will be a 2 in 1 repair that I might send in first actually. Naturally there are some chips and signs of wear although it's smarter than many I've seen. Chilli Red with white roof, white bonnet stripes having a thin black border, bullet wheels, generally very tidy, black half leather/carpet/trim, chrome line interior, maybe other stuff I'll add when I've done a spec check.

More pictures and details of work to follow here if I remember 😂

The car can be built into a high performance spec if wanting something with good power, all budget dependant, coils, cams, zorsts, final drives, diff perhaps, if I supply the specialist items I work with, I might install them pretty much labour FOC, and I will take the car for mapping ;O) Quite a saving to be had potentially for some.

Anyway, only one pic, car isn't here just yet as had no lift to bring it back, so will be available for any inspection in a few days should anyone want to see it or know more. Thursday it's looking like now.

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Discussion Starter #19
Car went in for paint on Tuesday for nsr quarter as above plus scoop and is ready I'm told, pics to follow when the car comes back, currently I have the bodyshop loan car (or one of them) here for repair so will swap them when this is done sometime next week

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