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Discussion Starter #1
2002 R53 Cooper-S 84000 miles.

About 1000 miles ago I was driving my car and I got the dreaded chain tensioner death rattle, the tensioner was fairly new so could not understand why? But anyway i removed it and found out that it had somehow returned to its compressed state:eek:hmy:
Thinking it had failed, i went and bought a new one and fitted it and it was fine, now another 1000 miles later and after a good thrash tonight I get exactly the same death rattle sound again.
The engine is too hot to remove it tonight but I just know that when i remove it tomorrow im going to find another compressed tensioner.

Why is this happening to my car, the oil is pristine and the sump has been removed and thoroughly cleaned so it cant be contamination.

anybody else had this, is there a bad batch of tensioners floating about??
 

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In the name of Fun
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5,985 Posts
I get it Dave.

My mate turned the motor backwards to free it off - Not something you want to always be doing .

This was a reason for me thinking of an accusump merely to push the damned thing out but that is way way too much overkill I think
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well Ive just removed it and sure enough its seized in the halfway out position, so another new one has just gone in, my oil is like fucking black tar and yet its only been in there a few thousand miles.

I REALLY need to do an extensive engine flush, what is best stuff to put in the engine to flush it all out, I need a really strong degreaser in there I reckon as it may be contamination in the oil ways left over from my overheat and dry sump that occurred a few years back thats blocking the tensioner and causing it to stick.

Im tempted to fill the engine with engine degreaser but i know thats not a good idea lol
 

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Fffuuuuuuu!
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Don't go ahead and do this, as I can't remember 100%, but I'm sure someone said to use really cheap oil 50:50 with some kind of degreaser or diesel / petrol. Flush it through once like that, then again with just cheap oil. I'm sure it was someone on here who mentioned how to flush the engine thoroughly.
 

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Don't go ahead and do this, as I can't remember 100%, but I'm sure someone said to use really cheap oil 50:50 with some kind of degreaser or diesel / petrol. Flush it through once like that, then again with just cheap oil. I'm sure it was someone on here who mentioned how to flush the engine thoroughly.
50/50 derv and el cheapo oil , run OFF load at idle for 10mins and drain ,new filter, refil el cheapo oil and ATF( 25% atf) again 10 mins OFF load at idle - drain ,new filter and refill with your choice of oil .
Take some pics of what comes out you will be suprised !!!
total cost cheapo oil £10 , derv £6 ,ATF £4 , filters £10 + your oil choice
Result = clean engine internals
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys, ive got a "Dimple" magnetic drain plug to go in too once its all done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can understand lumps in the oil for you cooking it but going dirty quick. Sure its not low oil pressure or blowby on the pistons?
It could well be worn rings dave as it's done a few miles but it can't be that worn as my leak down results were only 2-3% on all cylinders.
 

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50/50 derv and el cheapo oil , run OFF load at idle for 10mins and drain ,new filter, refil el cheapo oil and ATF( 25% atf) again 10 mins OFF load at idle - drain ,new filter and refill with your choice of oil .
Take some pics of what comes out you will be suprised !!!

total cost cheapo oil £10 , derv £6 ,ATF £4 , filters £10 + your oil choice
Result = clean engine internals
In another thread you said 2l oil, 2l atf and 2l diesel?
 

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You can vary mixtures depending on how shitty the oil is , derv/oil will clean more out , add ATF and it becomes a longer term thing , so you could simply add ATF just before an oil change for example to clean away carbon and free tappets from any clogging
There is no official mixture but these are what I have used before , if you wish to be more cautious then use less derv say 15% but you may need to do it more times once you see what comes out
I have never had any issues even when using on turbo engined cars whre the oil is passed through the turbo bearings , always the car runs smoother and the next oil change the oil is very clear
 

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If dave f takes some pics you will see what I mean
original drain
First drain
second drain
then 5000 miles later
 

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Is this tensioner accessable from the top or bottom :confused1:

Have you a pic showing its position :confused1:

Think mine's gone again too, sounded like a dammed tractor yesterday :cursing:

If it's just a case of undoing the old one and refitting I'll do it myself otherwise it's gonna go to garage and more ££££ :sad:
 

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MINI!
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3,160 Posts
Is this tensioner accessable from the top or bottom :confused1:

Have you a pic showing its position :confused1:

Think mine's gone again too, sounded like a dammed tractor yesterday :cursing:

If it's just a case of undoing the old one and refitting I'll do it myself otherwise it's gonna go to garage and more ££££ :sad:
On the back of the engine near the oil filter....
 
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