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Themis
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1,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok...in this project thread I will try to share with you as much info as possible about my car and the tuning development undertaken from 2007 till today...

Please remember that this particular Mini Cooper S is daily driven and it is NOT a show-car...that means you will see very few aesthetical modifications, it has been setup to participate occasionally in some rally events as a safety car, which means that it is not so shiny as some would expect...
This car is all about having fun and finishing a rally in one piece and at the same time work flawlessly the next day on the way to work.
It is being taken care off (babied in fact) from day one with very short intervals between services and always top quality parts are being used.

I will start with some current photos and a mod list when using the car on road:


GOPR0064.jpg GOPR0062.jpg GOPR0061.jpg GOPR0057.jpg IMG_3963.jpg


ROAD MODE:

External appearance:
Aero kit Version 2 with deep lower splitter and brake vents
Colour coded light rings front and back
white mirror caps

Future plans:
Not much really...



Internal mods:
JCW Recaro seats in alcantara/leather
JCW carbon gear knob
JCW alcantara/leather steering wheel with black inserts and carbon ring
APEXi boost meter, pyrometer, ecu
APEXi AVC-R boost controller
Auterra DynoDash logging tool

Future plans:
Oil temp gauge
Oil pressure gauge



Wheels and tires:
Crown spokes 7x17 et48 with Michelin Pilot Sport 3 205/45/17 (winter) (using 5mm spacers front and rear for brake clearance)
Compomotive MO1771 7x17 et43 Yokohama Advan Neova AD048 215/40/17 (summer)

Future plans:
Another set of wheels with 215/45 tyres



Suspension:
Ohlins coilovers BMS MI20
Powerflex Polyurethane bushes
JCW front-rear sway bars
JCW strut brace

Future plans:
Camber plates



Brakes:
JCW brake kit with modified Brembo calipers
Nitrac 2-piece 316x26mm cryo-treated discs with aluminium bells
Carbotech XP8 front pads Carbotech XP8 rear pads
Goodridge stainless steel hoses front and rear
Motul Racing 660 brake fluid

Future plans:
Already have the following...and waiting for the first event to fit them
Carbotech XP10 front



Engine mods:
Motul Racing 300V 5-40
JCW engine kit
ITG cylindrical foam filter
Samco boost hose kit
Samco intake hose kit
Forge diverter valve kit
Noise generator delete (custom pipe)
JCW turbo (modified)
JCW exhaust manifold (modified)
Evolve version2 FMIC
Akrapovic downpipe with 100cpi cat
2,5'' (63,5cm) cat back with 2,5'' resonator
JCW kit back box (road mode)
Custom 2,5' back box with 4' single tip (race mode)
NGK-R iridium spark plugs with stock air gap.
New-design valve cover with pressure valve relief.
EGT probes in the heart of the exhaust manifold (for both cylinder sets)
Evolve remap
Plastic scoop's grill removed
Okada plasma direct ignition coils
Quaife LSD
Schrick camshafts
Head ported and polished
Ferrea intake and exhaust valves
Mahle motorsport 77,50mm pistons
Carrillo H-beam conrods
Saiku Michi twin OCC
Mahle Motorsport bearings (rods and main)
HKS SSQV dump valve
Modified crankshaft
Competition clutch kit 2100 series with single mass flywheel
Motorsport Oil/water exchanger

LINKS TO USEFUL INFO: (on this thread)

FMIC Evolve V2 vs Forge

TURBO COMPONENTS

EXHAUST INFO

VIDEOS: SECTION 1 , SECTION 2

NOISE GENERATOR DELETE

WHEELS AND BRAKES , NITRAC DISCS/CARBOTECH PADS

PHOTOS: SECTION 1 , SECTION 2 , SECTION 3

RACE EXHAUST SINGLE TIP

OKADA PLASMA DIRECT IGNITION COILS

QUAIFE LSD - LOHEN BEARINGS

HKS SQV IV

A'PEXi AVC-R BOOST CONTROLLER

TWIN OIL/AIR SEPARATOR SAIKUMICHI

MAHLE MOTORSPORT PISTONS

VANDERVELL RACING BEARINGS




BESPOKE FORGED ENGINE: (links to other threads)

MAHLE MOTORSPORTS PISTONS

CARRILLO TAPERED CON-RODS

FERREA COMPETITION PLUS VALVES

SCHRICK BILLET CAMSHAFTS

VANDERVELL RACING BEARINGS





tbc...
 

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1,095 Posts
First of all... i want that fucking garage, i look forward to the start of your engine work do you work in the motor trade?.
 

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Themis
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1,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
First of all... i want that fucking garage, i look forward to the start of your engine work do you work in the motor trade?.
No, I don't work in the motor trade...
I am a Civil Engineer and work in constructions (residential,commercial), so getting you that fucking garage is pretty easy for me cause it is actually for sale! Together with a very nice house...:)
 

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876 Posts
Best colour IMO but then I am biased. Like the tricolore colour scheme with red mirrors which probably match the calipers which I could not see.

I have the colour coded boot handle to fit on mine, just never got round to it but the way this looks makes me want to get it done sooner and the cc'd light rings also work well.

Interested to see you changed the valve cover to newer type. Also looking at doing that as mine is a Sep 2006 build.

Are you thining of fitting an OCC or will water/meth sort out carbon issues?

Would be good to know what you did to the Turbo and Manifold. And RR figures if you have any.
 

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Themis
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1,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Best colour IMO but then I am biased. Like the tricolore colour scheme with red mirrors which probably match the calipers which I could not see.

I have the colour coded boot handle to fit on mine, just never got round to it but the way this looks makes me want to get it done sooner and the cc'd light rings also work well.

Interested to see you changed the valve cover to newer type. Also looking at doing that as mine is a Sep 2006 build.

Are you thining of fitting an OCC or will water/meth sort out carbon issues?

Would be good to know what you did to the Turbo and Manifold. And RR figures if you have any.
Here are some pics with the calipers in sight for you.

IMG_3898.jpg IMG_3906.jpg IMG_3902.jpg

Colour coding looks really nice...I did this recently after 4 years of hustle, so you are within the limits:wink:

The valve cover was warped and started losing oil. First, I replaced only the cover gaskets, but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. Ordered the new-design valve cover (I think from 2010 and on) replaced the whole damned thing and it stopped the oil leak. If you've got oil around your cover do it...

Carbon issues...
I have read all of these years ALL of the threads everyone posted in most Mini forums around the world. Wow, I thought, our motor has a very serious problem, and to be honest I expected mine to be as the rest. So, I decided after a rally event I participated, to bite the bullet and open the motor to see for myself. Guess what...
Nothing...not bad at all considering the motor had 35000miles on its back. It must have been the frequent maintenance (every 5000miles oil changes, filters, spark plugs), my obsession not to run the engine low on oil (never saw less than 0,5lt from full) and the way I drive (immediate drive from cold and heat-cool down the engine with patience and regularly beat the shit out of it!).
I don't know, but for me, if I have to open the motor every 30000 miles and do a proper clean up, it is not such a big deal.:cools:

Water/meth: If I decide to go for it, it will be because I will have reached to a point that it will be absolutely necessary. Probably together with the cams/head-piston/rods stage.

Turbo/manifold:
The development of the turbo and exhaust manifold has been thorough...I short-off designed my own JCW version, both turbo and manifold. Previous cracks on two sets of MCS turbos and manifolds forced me to investigate the reason for the cracks. After visual inspection and Engineering thought, I realized where the problem is.
So, there were a few points that needed improvement.

1. Unmatched ports (turbo to manifold). Yes, massive factory production means that such details have been left out off attention. But these can cause topically hot spots and be the beginning of the cracks.
Fixed that easily trimming the ports properly to give me a perfectly matched connection between the turbo and the manifold.

2. Design flaw of the turbo (both MCS and JCW). When the hot exhaust gases enter the cast iron port of the twin scroll turbo on cylinders 1-3 they face a design flaw of the turbo chamber. The inside curvature of the turbo is just wrong. This induces gas swirls inside the turbo and the weakest points are cooked to destruction. There is even color discrimination between 1-3 and 2-4 (1-3 is snow white=cooked and 2-4 is normal). Cracks start from the weakest link which are the unmatched ports (turbo to manifold).
Fixed that as well with the help of some 3D CAD-design and the appropriate trimming of the turbo internals where it was needed.

So, in a way you could say that I probably maximized the flow characteristics of my JCW turbo by making it more efficient.
I am sorry but don't have photos to show the job that's been done internally.

IMG_3625.jpg IMG_3619.jpg

Sadly RR figures won't happen cause my sponsor forbids it.
 

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BRG R53 Cooper S
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2,617 Posts
Hmm, did you require any other parts to change the rocker cover for a 2010 onwards one?
 

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876 Posts
Think its just a new gasket required and the new cover which has some type of breather valve.

If you look up your car on Real OEM you will find the original one has been replaced so you will only be able to buy the newer type.
 

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BRG R53 Cooper S
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2,617 Posts
Cheers mate, just wondered incase any of the pipe work was different that was all, il price one up tomorrow :)
 

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Premium Member
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261 Posts
Interesting project. Will be watching closely.
Rocker cover swap sound like a good idea. I run rear PCV blocked so ability to vent excess pressure would be a good idea.
 

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Themis
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1,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for your interest in my project...
I love this little car from the day I first bought it...Amongst the cars I own it is my favourite, thus the every day use...

The turbo work is nonetheless rewarding, especially after the Evolve tune which gave wings to the car...
From my experience in several tunes I have tried in the Mini and what is available worldwide, Evolve has something nobody else has to offer...NO BOOST CUTS!!!
It seemed that the MCS map sensors were the limit in remapping but not for Evolve.:cools:


As fas as the rocker cover is concerned, I just remembered that when I was doing some testing on mountain roads and really pushing the engine to its limits, the dipstick was constantly poping about an inch up off its locking position (with the old cover).
Excessive blow by gases were actually lifting it...
After fitting the new cover with the relief valve the dipstick is where it should be.
I am assuming that this excess pressure is vented through this valve...
 

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Themis
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1,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Lots of respect for the thorough approach and thanks for sharing here on MT :thumbup1: The turbo work is impressive, as is your garage!
I can't help myself...I must comment on that, although going off topic!
This garage together with the block of flats above it, is a fairly simple and tidy construction. And it was built to be sold...It is not my private garage...
Mine is a lot better...and contains proper tools for boys too...:tongue_smilie:
 
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