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Discussion Starter #21
The next thing to deal with was the hideous decals. Every man and his dog was trying to race me. Felt like i was driving Herby the luv bug.

The chequered bonnet stripes where the first to go, they where a bastard to get off, i heated them up but that only made it worse as the adhesive stayed on the paint. I pulled the other one off without heat and that worked better. Unfortunately the cheap ink on the black chequered part had leeched through and stained the paint, I'll have to get some plain white stripes later on.

The door number stickers came off pretty easy. The lower side stickers remained for a little while longer.


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WD40 is great for dissolving the glue
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Now , im back trying to sort out the cold start and idle issue. I read in various places that sometimes this issue was caused when mini did ecu updates. I had a spare stock ecu that was known to be working correctly.

I fitted this in and it seemed to fix the warm idle hunt issue but not totally solve the cold start. Sometimes it would start first go, other times it would need a second attempt. It was totally different to before where the car would start fine but then misfire for around 10 secs. Either way the ecu did make some difference.

I drove for a few days like this. The car was now significantly slower in the low to mid range. The original ecu definitely must of been tweaked for low end response and torque. I ended up reverting back to the original ecu and tried replacing the map, tmap sensors, evap purge valve with known working spares. This made no difference.

Next, i rewired the engine fan due to the resistor being dead. 4 Mini's and all of them had dead resistors. I just rewire them to run hi speed instead of low. Still no difference to the warm idle on the original ecu. Hmm, this is going to be one of those problems where in going to be chasing my tail.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
From here, i fitted the dimsport tuned Ecu. It has 2 tunes, 1 for standard injectors and 1 for the 550cc. I loaded in the standard injector tune. It seemed to run like the standard ecu i had tried earlier where it wouldn't start first go. I had also fitted new ngk bkr7equp plugs too with no change, Hmm.

Next the 550cc injectors and the fuel rail and fpr from the black car are fitted. Since the intercooler was off, the gp cooler is fitted while there. Then the 550cc tune from the dimsport is loaded into the ecu.

Now everything seems to be running well. No cold start problems and no warm idle issue. I've been driving the car in this configuration for the last few months. The ecu is a pre facelift version, so i have lost function of the cruise control and the oil temp, pressure on the chrono gauges.

I also bought a cheap ebay facelift key, reprogrammed it to open the doors and then fitted the board from that and the chip for the ews ecu inside the original key. Worked well.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The remapped ECU will be from a non-cruise/standard central speedo equipped car.
It is from a standard central speedo, here in aus its standard central tacho as our laws state the speedo must be directly in front of the driver. The donor car did have cruise.

From some research i did, it is common for cruise not to work when changing between facelift and pre fl ECU's. Apparently has to do with the different ratios and final drive in the gear box. Cruise will actually work but only in 3rd gear. The ratio must be the same or almost same in that gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The car has been driving well over the past few months but i would like to get the chrono gauges and cruise working again.
I had a thought the other day that maybe it wasn't the ecu causing the problem but possibly the standard injectors and fpr. They have covered 240k kms. I am going to take them to get cleaned and flow tested and then try them again with the original ecu.

When all this covid stuff is over, im getting to get a power run done on a dyno and see where we're at.

Recently the unknown Ebay spec exhaust was fitted. So all the performance parts are on this car now except for the headers, hopefully in the next week or 2.

Here's some pics of the current state

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Discussion Starter #29
Last month the header tank decided to start leaking from the seam. Didn't look very old, previous owner said he paid bmw $800 to replace it s few years back. I tried hoboing it with epoxy, didn't work out. So a cheapo $52 steel one was purchased from eBay, arrived 2 days later and surprisingly fit well and doesn't leak. I'll call that a win. It can be seen in the engine bay pic in the previous post.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I had a good look through the service book recently. Wow, whoever bought this new back in 2005 certainly did a lot of KMs. It covered 80k in the first 18 months. It then changed ownership and was looked after by a bmw specialist (probably the place that tuned it) and then changed ownership to the guy i bought it off. These owners averaged less than 20k per year which is fairly normal here. I still can't believe the condition of this thing considering the km. Im pretty sure it's been garaged it's whole life and that would have something to do with it.
 

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Did you check the other car for a cam? Chances are the 550ccs were fitted with an RMW cam as theres no need to do 550's otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah i did but no cam :( What kind of hobo would i be if I missed that. Im assuming the owner of the black car planned to do more before crashing the car stopped the process. The tune file says the injectors are 450cc but when I googled the part numbers they're Siemens 550cc.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So as i said in the very first post, my wife always had a thing for Minis and that's why we originally bought one, then she gave up on manual. She has been persistently whinging for the last few months that we should buy an auto.

I said ok but i would only buy an R53 cooper s. Not interested in the many problems of the newer models. Auto cooper s are fairly thin on the ground here.

Over 3 months we saw 2 advertised, first was chilli red with 150 k km for $8k. Went and had a look, low engine oil, low coolant and ac not working. No thanks.

A month later, a brg one comes up. 100k km $7.5k. we go and have a look but the condition was horrible compared to my blue one. I said to the wife there is no way im giving up the blue one for this. The seller even offered it to us for $6k but we still walked.

I was glad considering the time and effort i put into the blue car and it had finally all just come together.

I think eventually I'll get rid of our Audi Q7, the Ford Focus we have and buy her a F series 4 door Cooper S. That should keep her happy for a little while.

Apparently the f series are fairly reliable, is that assumption correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
So now we are up to date. So far including the purchase price, the cost of a replacement harmonic balancer that went into the grey car after i pilfered the ATI from it, a few seals, gaskets and 3 months road reg. The grand total is $2850 aud. Not bad for a car that looks and goes decently.

Once i calculate the profits from the parts sold from the wrecks then the total cost of this car is -$2000.

Not your typical hobo car build as there are some decent quality items that have been collected along the way but the costs have been full hobo and then some.

I wouldn't have done a thread for this but due to covid 19 and everyone being in lockdown, i thought I'd give people something different to have a read of whilst keeping me busy too.

Hope you guys have enjoyed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
From this point on, I'll just be posting updates as things happen. On the agenda are:

Fitting the headers

Ordering and fitting white bonnet stripes
(Will be purchased from UK, due to covid will be a fair wait I'd imagine)

Dyno run when possible

Fit pre facelift led taillights and reverse light. (I have these so may as well use them)

Have standard injectors cleaned and flow tested and refit with original ecu.


These are the marks the previous bonnet stripes left, i tried various compounds on them but pretty sure ink from the print on the stickers has stained the paint. New bonnet stripes are going to be the easiest fix here.

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I have similar marks on a replacement silver boot lid I bought, I'd rather look at the marks than rust haha,
 

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Good stuff. Interesting to read about the Mini market over there, especially after doing some currency conversions... Here in Finland a rusted up, high mileage, low spec R53 can cost you about $10.000 AUD. :poop:

And if you're ever cutting up another rust free R53 shell, maybe send some rear quarter panels my way, at least the parts around the tail lights. :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Good stuff. Interesting to read about the Mini market over there, especially after doing some currency conversions... Here in Finland a rusted up, high mileage, low spec R53 can cost you about $10.000 AUD. :poop:

And if you're ever cutting up another rust free R53 shell, maybe send some rear quarter panels my way, at least the parts around the tail lights.
I thought we had it bad with Mini prices over here compared to the UK and US. I'll consider Australia very cheap compared to you guys.

If i ever pull apart another one, I'll keep you in mind. Although post may be eye watering
 
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