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Annoyingly my clutch has started to slip today with 6 months of use with 390Nm which means upgrade time.

I've ordered a Quaife, currently looking at the Lohen TTV kit of lightened flywheel and oragnic clutch (avoiding paddle clutch as it's a daily) so I think that's the main bits sorted.
It wouldn't be a job on a Mini if there weren't other things to do, so I'm looking at wishbone rear bushes whilst they're in there.
Had Powerflex on my GP and got constant binding giving a constant creaking/cracking noise when manoeuvring so not bothering with them again. The SuperPro ones have a metal insert opposed to plastic on plastic so should avoid the binding hopefully??

I get what castor is, but can someone tell me how it's going to affect the Mini? Does it have a knock on effect to other settings?

Currently run about -2.2 degrees on the front with almost 0 toe, will that still work or does that need changing to account for caster changes?
Fucking Mini's
 

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Short over simplification is it affects high speed steering weight. More castor makes the wheels self centre with more force and so the steering gets heavier as you go faster.

I put more castor in my R53 and it made it nicer to drive because it felt more race car.

James
 

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Annoyingly my clutch has started to slip today with 6 months of use with 390Nm which means upgrade time.

I've ordered a Quaife, currently looking at the Lohen TTV kit of lightened flywheel and oragnic clutch (avoiding paddle clutch as it's a daily) so I think that's the main bits sorted.
It wouldn't be a job on a Mini if there weren't other things to do, so I'm looking at wishbone rear bushes whilst they're in there.
Had Powerflex on my GP and got constant binding giving a constant creaking/cracking noise when manoeuvring so not bothering with them again. The SuperPro ones have a metal insert opposed to plastic on plastic so should avoid the binding hopefully??

I get what castor is, but can someone tell me how it's going to affect the Mini? Does it have a knock on effect to other settings?

Currently run about -2.2 degrees on the front with almost 0 toe, will that still work or does that need changing to account for caster changes?
Fucking Mini's
Seems to be clutch season,

The organic clutch I'd have thought would be nicer on the road and still capable. An ATB diff you're going to like a lot ;O) These cars should have had them as standard equipment haha.

Powerflex are or were probably making a noise if not lubricated so well when installed, you might have just been unlucky there perhaps. I don't think so many have the same issue, I've had Black Series in for nearly three years that are still quiet.

Caster will tilt the suspension leg in the same way camber does on these cars with McPherson struts, if you imagine a line passing through the centre of the top mount and the bottom outer ball joint, top rearward or bottom forward is positive. It can have a significant effect on steering both for pull or a favourable affect of assisting straightening up, or the affect of 'weighting' steering input the further the wheel is turned toward lock.

It will also have a similar and usually favourable affect as adding negative camber only that it does it in turns, favourable typically just where the outside wheel is turning in which exaggerates it progressively. The negative aspect could potentially be the value of the inside wheel turning out. It's a useful method to increase negative camber only when you need it most rather than increase tyre wear from running heavily on the inner edge from more extreme camber, but also rather than affecting grip when braking or accelerating having a less even weight spread across the tyre when steering is straight for example, or causing instability that can arise from the same, tramlining etc.

Camber can be applied at the top or bottom, so can caster. If you apply camber at the bottom on these as some do with fixed camber inner ball joints the caster will become more negative because of the 'L' shaped lower arm mounting positions, inner and outer mounts being forward of the single rear mount, so moving the wheel out, but passively rearwards, so you need to counter it by adding caster, buying offset caster lower arm rear bushes, this will widen track slightly. You 'could' possibly experience less driveshaft 'wobble' as some people experience on the lower cars, because you would be moving the CV joints away from each other very slightly but I haven't tested that. If you alter camber at the top no affect on track will occur. If you apply caster at the bottom using the bushes available, you move the wheel slightly forward, if you add it at the top mount which is possible on YCW Reference coilovers for example, you don't, if anything very slightly rearward. You typically need very slightly more positive caster on the O/S in the UK which will help keep the car tracking straight with camber affected roads etc.

No idea if any of that helps you haha, I don't think I got anything round the wrong way ;O)

Lohen? I have a car here now just out of there, the owner might choose to share an opinion later perhaps. I feel a bit bad for people that don't get quite so much as I think they should for their money, especially from such a facility. Stuff that should be considered part of a job, and other stuff that just simply isn't so good. If I was a different person maybe I'd video more and post it somewhere but it isn't really my way, or my story to tell but I might add to it if it's told. I take pictures of work in progress so people get to see things they wouldn't normally, relied on I suspect by some.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome reply as always CoB, will have a proper sit down and read through when I get 5!
Thanks - will reply with some thoughts late
 

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MiniTorqueGoesFinland
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I added the stiffer Whiteline caster bushes and I like the improved steering feel.

The only slight downside is the very pronounced effect as you go over the crown of the road (and back again) for example when overtaking on a two lane Finnish road ...
 

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I added the stiffer Whiteline caster bushes and I like the improved steering feel.

The only slight downside is the very pronounced effect as you go over the crown of the road (and back again) for example when overtaking on a two lane Finnish road ...
I also have the Whiteline castor bushes and have found no negative results?
Which position did you fit these at (the anti lift - ie at 45 deg or the full castor adjustment)?
 

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MiniTorqueGoesFinland
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I also have the Whiteline castor bushes and have found no negative results?
Which position did you fit these at (the anti lift - ie at 45 deg or the full castor adjustment)?
Full castor. I only really feel this effect on the main A roads which are cambered for rain (and not on normal country roads or motorways). You can feel the cambered shape of the road in any car, but more so in the R53 (and especially under full throttle ie overtaking!). The first time was odd, but now I have come to expect a little fight.
 

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Full castor. I only really feel this effect on the main A roads which are cambered for rain (and not on normal country roads or motorways). You can feel the cambered shape of the road in any car, but more so in the R53 (and especially under full throttle ie overtaking!). The first time was odd, but now I have come to expect a little fight.
‘Ah I see, mine can be a little ‘snappy’ at times
 

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I get the same effect on Finnish roads as tcbw mentioned even without the caster bushes... especially with semi-slicks.

Lowering the R53 reduces caster. The Whiteline offset caster bushes bring it back by ~0.5 degree. Factory caster spec is 4.27 - 5.27, and on my ~35mm lowered R53 it's now at 4.58/4.52 (left/right).
 
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