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saw that Friday (my car is third black one along), thought it looked familiar

those doors are proper light aren't they, don't think I noticed before that they had frames to fit the window to, I think I'd want the bottom of the frame a bit tougher but do like the overall weight which must make a massive difference,

I can remember the difference the seats made for me so the doors would be similar or better again let alone bonnet and boot....
 

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Discussion Starter #242
Are you the guy who spoke to Tom when he dropped it off then?

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Guilty
 

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Discussion Starter #244 (Edited)
I had originally planned to go for a 17% pulley, but I've gone back on that idea now as in racing once you have heat soak it's not going anywhere, so thought safer than sorry.

So, whilst they were doing the cam and injectors, 1320 had a a poke about the engine bay and found my pulleys were all fucked.

If you remember, my earlier posts, last year at the Birkett relay I had an off into the kitty litter where the gravel went so high in the engine bay that it tore the serpentine belt. We replaced it track side however in our rush to get it changed before the race, we never noticed the pulleys were damaged.

The damage to the pulleys had in turn tore apart the new belt which was effectively 60 minutes old and wouldn't have lasted my next race weekend. Had this not been noticed, I'd have probably blown my engine and been out for the season.



We now have new pulleys, belt fitted


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Anyway, the new ECU and wideband was fitted, 15% SC pulley stayed on, 550c injectors and a cat cam installed.

more

These aren't the final figures, however I doubt they will increase much
 

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Discussion Starter #246
Great weekend just gone at Brands Hatch.

I was nervous heading into the race weekend having not driven the car for 6 months and with it now having more power, different gearing, tyres and much more on a circuit that bites pretty badly.

Qualifying was nothing short of carnage. It was very cold, the AFRC were first out and cars were going off everywhere. The car felt undriveable on the brand new unscrubbed tyres and I was struggling to get any temperature in them. I managed 3 laps before it was red flagged due to crashes losing one of those times for exceed track limits meaning I would start 14th for race 1 and 2.

Race 1 came around and it was wet, cold and dropping some sleet. Not ideal weather for semi slicks but some pressure changes made for a pretty driveable and predictable car. A great first lap had me move upto 8th until a good few laps getting over confident I mixed ambition and ability up heading into Surtees losing the back end and spinning losing 2 positions and a chunk of time. I managed to catch them and retake the positions finishing in 7th overall and 1st in class.

Race 2 could not have been more different: Dry and warm. A poor launch again didn't help, losing a position into paddock hill bend. I then ended up in an awesome battle with a couple of the Class A cars but couldnt make it through. Initially cautious in the corners not knowing the dry braking points, lines, grip levels, I finished very confident in the car and a little gutted we didn't have a 3rd race there. Race 2 result 10th overall, 4th in class.

I need to learn to heal and toe as I really struggled getting it from 3rd into 2nd and lost chunks of time with either a box of neutrals or going into 4th rather than 2nd. I ended up using 3rd gear at fldruids instead!

Race 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcCIUoHLmH4&feature=youtu.be

Race 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhKjX2I73Zw


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different gearing?
 

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………………... and with it now having more power, different gearing, tyres and much more on a circuit that bites pretty badly.

as above, wondered how/what etc.
 

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the reason you're having trouble downshifting into 2nd first and foremost is that you probably have the lever centring spring connected. It is adjustable, but is unnecessary. I've written about this before but it's ignored by most bar a few that are happy they took notice. Disconnect the adjustment post from the spring! 5mm allen key and 10mm nut.

you may well encounter some difficulty if not using heel/toe but this isn't your problem mate it's the lever. Surely (assuming it is still connected) you've noticed the effort required also going to 5th now too?

I watched a number of your race clips now, you'd benefit from at least my final drive kit. The leggy stretches of 3rd 4th 3rd 4th 3rd 4th feel like they take forever, if you're as quick as you are doing that, you're going to like it. A chunk of money I kno m, ,gfgg nxbr hj vcwYou will be using the gate to 5th more but 3rd 4th 5th and maybe 6th on longer straights when you utilise the 469's peak of 5-6.5k
 

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Discussion Starter #255
the reason you're having trouble downshifting into 2nd first and foremost is that you probably have the lever centring spring connected. It is adjustable, but is unnecessary. I've written about this before but it's ignored by most bar a few that are happy they took notice. Disconnect the adjustment post from the spring! 5mm allen key and 10mm nut.

you may well encounter some difficulty if not using heel/toe but this isn't your problem mate it's the lever. Surely (assuming it is still connected) you've noticed the effort required also going to 5th now too?

I watched a number of your race clips now, you'd benefit from at least my final drive kit. The leggy stretches of 3rd 4th 3rd 4th 3rd 4th feel like they take forever, if you're as quick as you are doing that, you're going to like it. A chunk of money I kno m, ,gfgg nxbr hj vcwYou will be using the gate to 5th more but 3rd 4th 5th and maybe 6th on longer straights when you utilise the 469's peak of 5-6.5k
May look into that spring. Haven't needed 5th yet tbh.

I'm going to change to a facelift gearbox.

What's the deal with your final drive kit then? Not seen anything about it.

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Definitely disconnect the spring, makes it so much nicer. Also grease the gear linkage at the box end, I've got a very nice shift now.

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on the Coolerworx lever there is a centring spring in plain view, it's anchored by a front post and adjusted/synchronised by another behind, partly concealed under the shifter frame, this one needs removing.
 

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Discussion Starter #260 (Edited)
on the Coolerworx lever there is a centring spring in plain view, it's anchored by a front post and adjusted/synchronised by another behind, partly concealed under the shifter frame, this one needs removing.
I'll do it when I get back to. How easy is it to access?

I never Installed it so my question is where on here is it. Underneath I assume?

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