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I think he means the big spring that follows on from the Coolerworx logo.

I have rebushed the linkage at the box end and I never have any problems finding gears with my Coolerworx shifter with the spring left in.
 

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Discussion Starter #262
I haven't in normal driving but in heavy deceleration and I mean heavy downshifting from 3rd to 2nd is difficult

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I'd first try adjusting the set up first if you like the feel the shift.

Wind in/out the little bolt by 0.5mm that is the left hand hard stop, that should help. Which way depends on how the wrong shifts felt, like you'd gone to far or not far enough in lateral stick movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #264
I'd first try adjusting the set up first if you like the feel the shift.

Wind in/out the little bolt by 0.5mm that is the left hand hard stop, that should help. Which way depends on how the wrong shifts felt, like you'd gone to far or not far enough in lateral stick movement.
I'll take a look when I'm back in the UK

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ok, there is one pole which moves the spring with the lever, then there is another that stays still mounted to the frame, used to synchronise the springs, this one needs removing and has a 5mm allen key head you access from behind and below that Coolerworx text, the post is a hex shape and is 10mm. The hole it bolts through you will see is elongated which is used for adjustment. Doing this you don't change the look of the lever at all.

if those pics are of the shifter in your car it doesn't look like the reverse/limit screws have been fitted, I can't imagine why. These I retained as one at least prevents the lever moving past the 2nd gear gate when downshifting in anger which is the one for the right side which goes in the hole nearest you so lifting the collar clears it, the left side goes in the forward hole and acts as a limit stop for 5th/6th gate which lifting the collar doesn't affect. The absence of the right one will no doubt also be a factor in your difficulty.

These are dead easy to set and simply need a 7mm spanner, hold the lever firmly across to the right for 5th for example and while there wind the screw in by hand only and just nip up the nut, then take the lever left so you're very slightly loading the additional spring for reverse gate while holding the collar up, 'only just', and tighten the right one. Then test the reverse collar/access gives a clean selection, best done with the engine running. I'd set these after checking the connecting rod length which could be looked at to see if it's good, just set it so the bottom of the lever doesn't foul the floor pan on the left when in/going for the 5th/6th gate, it might touch the two cables on the right when in reverse but that's ok if only just, this only happens in reverse which you're in a lot less than 5th/6th and is always a slower selection,

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as those limit screws don't appear to have been used, you may as well check this too as it might not have been looked at...... So.... while you're looking, also take a look at the pivot/lever that moves when you move the shifter laterally across the gate, take a close look at the lever to see if it 'tilts' before it moves, look at the silver collar/washer as you rock the lever just where any free play is, it will be easier to see the lever tilt maybe watching here, the nut and shouldered bolt work loose, if they were ever tight in the first place! I was initially over critical of this as I hadn't stripped it all out and felt there was no shoulder on the bolt serving as a surface for the nut to tighten to, because when I tightened mine it pinched the movement of the lever so I'd then just backed it off a little.

The little fucker came loose repeatedly so I stripped it out and saw the bolt 'does' have a shoulder, but it is marginally shallower than the width of the parts moving under it so it still pinches, but the other discovery was that the bolt itself is threaded into the shifter frame and mine had backed out. This has to be checked to make sure it is tight before you check the nut. If yours is loose, remove the nut and bolt, add thread lock, medium to the bolt into the frame, and heavy to the nut thread. I say heavy here because the thing has come loose on mine yet again despite it being a locknut and having medium thread lock, fortunately not so bad, but I checked it just now only to take these pics for you and while there just observed for a quick check and the tell tale of the pivot lever rocking before moving the cable was present, the bolt this time hasn't moved but the nut had backed off again.

A tiny thing perhaps but it will cause you problems if ignored and coming loose. Once the thread lock is added, secure the nut until it pinches the lever, and just back it off until the lever just but always returns to the centre unaided. Leave the thread lock to set.

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Discussion Starter #266
I'll have to take a look when I get home in June because I've genuinely never even looked at the shifter mechanism in person so none of what you say makes any sense right now. Once I can see it, I'm sure it will be clear enough

Also I cant open those attachments on my phone for some reason so I'll check on a laptop later.

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Discussion Starter #267
Can you draw on the image where those limit screws are?

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I think he means the big spring that follows on from the Coolerworx logo.

I have rebushed the linkage at the box end and I never have any problems finding gears with my Coolerworx shifter with the spring left in.
it's about how much effort is required to get across the gate due to the spring being doubled up that's all.

The job is done by one in the gearbox already and the lever ratio isn't really high enough to justify another, especially this size. The stock shifter which most people having the Coolerworx fitted for them may not be aware of, doesn't have a spring in it at all. It doesn't need two.
 

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Can you draw on the image where those limit screws are?

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sorry, images got dropped by the site.... amended
 

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Discussion Starter #270 (Edited)
Had a shocking week leading up to the Anglesey race.

My cartek isolator decided it wanted to stop working so had to rewire a manual cutoff in I stead which made me wander why I even bothered with the cartek in the first place. Waste of money!

I then fitted a facelift supercharger and new waterpump and foolishly a 17% pulley thinking what's the worst that could happen...

Then en route to Anglesey I had a proper blow out on the trailer.


Eventually arriving ready to race, the car was immediately on pace in qualifying setting 7th fastest lap in qualifying on my 2nd lap with traffic, less than a second from 2nd, before my IATs went through the roof and cylinder 2 ingested a spark plug smashing the head and exhaust valves.

So after all that travel and work I watched 3 races from the sideline rather than the wheel.

Gutting as the car was really good.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tQqTTChjXsc&feature=youtu.be



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Discussion Starter #272
Any detonation signs? That spark plug looks like its failed because of heat to me
It did hence me saying it failed due to high IATs.

At brands with same temp and engine/software setup but a 15% pulley it peaked at 60 degrees.

At Anglesey I changed to a 17% and temps peaked at 90 degrees.

Temperatures absolutely caused this and its self inflicted .

I'm now going back to a 15% pulley obviously, but I've also purchased a Rob Cox ported and polished head to reduce temps further and hopefully release bit of power, although not sure how much.

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Discussion Starter #274
Im sure you've considered it, but would it not be better going for something like a 13%?

Less peak power, but 60°C is above the point it pulls timing so might actually end up with more power consistently with the 13?
I have although I think I'll be going for a front mount instead matched to a 15 which with the ported head should manage temps just fine. That should drop it below 60 with no issue.

If that doesn't, I'll start reducing the pulley size

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That's a bit shit isn't it, but you're lucky to save it there. Generally the heads of the valves would come off and fuck a lot more up.

I think there's possibly more to that though Sy, changing the pulley without altering the map is asking it to run a bit lean yes, but IAT at 90? the stock ECU pulls timing and dumps fuel at 56 to protect the engine, I don't know what your Link will be doing but I'd have thought similar.

Combustion temp is different and not necessarily down to your IAT, which is rather high yes, I can't ever recall seeing mine so high at Trac Mon with a 17%, I was there last June in 28 degree weather staying out for ages, but iirc was always under 80, 78 maybe from the log I remember, irrelevant maybe, but I'm less sure your failure is down to it, fwiw I went round Oulton all day the next day doing just the same and much longer since. I understand the IAT may be the number you saw which is making you consider the pulley as it was the only thing that was changed, but you may well have had the problem already, just asking that little bit more from the engine that was quite likely already running with a high combustion temp. My point is I think you should hold off ditching the pulley and consider that possibility.

Your failure could perhaps be due to unmetered air if that head crack was already present, did you check the plug torque prior to removal? That crack is quite possibly your causal problem. I would keep your 17%, go get it mapped so you can swap pulley or map later as you see fit, change to front mount if you were going to anyway, and fit your good head as is required.

It's easy to be distracted by the last thing you did, but in this instance I think you have good reason to wait and just think about it a little longer... ;O)
 

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Discussion Starter #279
What probably doesnt help is running closely with other cars.

The map is running rich and was pulling timing the whole time as can be seen on the logs.

I will not be on a 17, I will 100% be on a 15 next race. I trust 1320 to sort it out and map it accordingly and wont be doing any of the above. 1320 know their stuff more than anyone on here.

I'll be sticking an output on the ECU so the dash lights up when temps exceed 60 degrees si at least I can pull.out of traffic to cool it down.

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of course but fwiw a 17 if mapped for is perfectly safe or we wouldn't keep fitting them, and alone would not have caused this type of head failure, if IAT was the cause you'd likely also have symptoms on more than one cylinder rather than just the one that happens to have a crack in the combustion chamber sadly that yours has where it is, which is possibly combustion temp that can affect one cylinder, valve seats will tell more. Regardless, hope the next head gives more.
 
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