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/Overcompensate
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717 Posts
Don't lowered cars also suffer from bump steer due to geometry?

Maybe add some bump steer spacers.

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
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605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
My car is currently stock height.
I found that when I had put coilovers on my previous Mini it actually helped :)
 

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2010 R56 N18
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57 Posts
I'm afraid I don't know much about suspension geometry past the very basics. I never would have guessed ARBs were to blame. I always assumed it was something to do with the spring rate or the relationship between bump and rebound being a bit out of whack but perhaps not. Maybe the stiffer ARB was added as an afterthought without taking into consideration the front spring/damper design. So perhaps the overall design got compromised.

When you look at aftermarket ARBs they're always stiffer to reduce body roll but I guess that's not always something that needs doing. But as far as I understand it you can increase grip at the front by either fitting a softer front ARB or a stiffer rear ARB. I have no idea what would be better in this case but I'd be very interested to see the results of some experiments with this. It's certainly a lot easier and cheaper to swap an ARB than upgrade to coilovers.

As I'm due some suspension maintenance which I'll be getting done at Lohen, I'll ask them to see if they've had any experience with fixing this issue.
 

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I can't remember my car ever doing this but had different/stickier tyres from early on then my coilovers for nearly three years, I removed the front bar less than six months later, it still corners pretty flat, now with a fairly neutral characteristic.

So a comp rear bar, middle setting with heavier front spring rate and remove the front bar, or low setting with road/lower front spring rate and a One bar. Wheel/tyre size, height, weight, spring rate/s, geometry will be variables for each driver.
 

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5,605 Posts
No.
 

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The front bar differs on an S if it has Sport Suspension Plus or not, if it has it's a bigger bar. Not the only reason these can be described as harsh, but the roll bar is just a torsion bar which some cars use longitudinally to hold the car up using them instead of a coil spring, so you can imagine the torsion they can apply. Some 4x4's for instance ML comes to mind, and they're heavy. We have them to help lift the inside wheel in a turn, so strong enough to carry the weight of that sides drive train plus the spring weight, so the car can corner flatter. Many variables, but they can add harshness, this is often felt less if the spring is quite some way into its range of compression, where the bar is also holding the other side in a similar state say, and that can be some quite spirited driving. The rest of the time, over some types of minor undulations or suspension compressions the bar is lifted and there isn't necessarily enough distortion if you like, to perhaps flex the bar or compress the other side, so what can happen is the lifting, or distorting side can affect traction, sometimes lifting the body corner a little quickly and felt as jarring.

I wonder sometimes what people think they're getting when they tick these boxes. For me I want it, but on most road cars it isn't necessary. So come the time the car gets sold on, people inherit it, mostly unaware. Anyway I hope that makes some sort of sense haha.
 

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2006 R53
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10,714 Posts
Hmmm, food for thought. I might try disconnecting mine as it's the ss+ bar and a bit of extra grip would come in handy
 

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Bugger
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25,424 Posts
SS+ was standard on the Cooper S. Only the Cooper got it as an option.
 
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Bugger
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To boot the base spec One's didn't even get SS, they sat 8mm higher than a Cooper and had no RARB or even the mounts for it.
 

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I just remember it as an option because my 2005 Mini One had it.
 

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2010 R56 N18
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57 Posts
Tis this weekends plan, I've not had the inclination to drive to the unit where I keep my tools for a while. I need to have the wheels off for a few jobs this weekend.
Did you managed to try anything with the FARB at the weekend? Thanks.
 

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2010 R56 N18
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57 Posts
Not yet, I might get out to it on Thursday.
No probs.

I've been doing some research into this but I haven't found anything solid yet.
Lohen told me they haven't encountered the issue before, either on cars with stock suspension, thicker anti-roll bars or coilovers. So that surprised me.
I've also spoken to Whiteline and they're not convinced this is related to anti-roll bars or suspension as such but more likely alignment. Specifically excessive toe out. But it's really difficult to diagnose this stuff via email so who knows. :confused1:

So I'll be very interested to see what you find out. Cheers.
 

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Bugger
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No probs.

I've been doing some research into this but I haven't found anything solid yet.
Lohen told me they haven't encountered the issue before, either on cars with stock suspension, thicker anti-roll bars or coilovers. So that surprised me.
I've also spoken to Whiteline and they're not convinced this is related to anti-roll bars or suspension as such but more likely alignment. Specifically excessive toe out. But it's really difficult to diagnose this stuff via email so who knows. :confused1:

So I'll be very interested to see what you find out. Cheers.
It is, mini specialists don't always encounter the same issues as us owners. I've seen it affect the car to the extent its bent front ARB links.
 

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168 Posts
To boot the base spec One's didn't even get SS, they sat 8mm higher than a Cooper and had no RARB or even the mounts for it.
SS was an option on the one’s, my old one 7 had it fitted, had read one’s don’t have a RARB then noticed mine did so did a vin check and the car was spec’d From factory with it :thumbup1:
 

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2010 R56 N18
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How do you find out what suspension options the car was spec'd with? I've tried a couple of online VIN decoders and they don't come back with anything suspension related.
 

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So if there are no optional extra suspension specs in you vin-decode then you have standard suspension with no optional extras.
 
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