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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. I am going to have a go at explaining this. My Clubman is my 4th mini and they have all done it to a degree.

What it is. Is that when you are taking a corner, reasonable speed, nothing silly, and hit a slight bump, say a change in the tarmac or just a small pot hole. The steering wheel definitely snatches.

Before everyone says it will do I had a Leon Cupra 290 before and I can think of one bit of road where the mini is terrible and the Leon didn’t flitch.

Why does the mini do this? Would a strut bar help?

My old JCW I went to town with bushes, strut brace and coilovers all at the same time and I remember this all but got rid of it. But I don’t know which item was the fix.

Any advice as it’s bugging me.
 

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mostly down to geometry differences between the cars, and which may apply to this one perhaps,

have you had a geom check on this? Maybe bushes and coilover settings themselves could have helped, I doubt the brace would, also softer spring rates could play a part, roll bar differences included.

The steering arm angle on a lowered car isn't as steep, and the amount it travels over a bump perhaps is less depending on spring rate and pre-load. So pushing the hub making it turn in or pulling the hub making it turn out on either side. As the car is lowered the arm may be nearer to horizontal and could perhaps pass over its centre having both effects. Only a guess as I can't drive your car or see it.

If it's standard height now I guess a left turn is sending the steering wheel left, and right to the right? It could also be the brake reaction bushes/lower arm rear bushes, as over bumps these when worn (or not) will move, and as they alter the caster angle, when the wheel moves forward the wheel can turn in, back it can turn out, if the steering arm is inclined rear of it's centre which I think it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cheers for the reply.

It’s a weird one as it’s definitely been a trait of all the minis I have had and it’s not something I noticed on my other cars (20+)

It is standard height and the geometry was done about 3k miles ago. So should still be fine.

Could be worn bushes but my other minis only had 20k on the clock when I got it and still did it
 

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2010 R56 N18
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57 Posts
I have the same problem with mine and it drives me crazy. I'm on stock suspension. At first I thought it was just the run flats, but the same thing happens with regular Michelins. So I got some worn bushes swapped to Powerflex poly and it still happened. So I fitted front and rear strut braces and got an alignment done at Lohen and it still happened.

I had my MOT last year at Lohen and nothing suspension related was picked up but this year they've found the OEM top mounts are cracked and one of my dampers is leaking a bit. So I'm hoping they're the cause for me. I'll be getting them fixed next year. So I'd check your top mounts and dampers for wear.
 

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Bugger
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Personally (not much facts to back this up) but I think the S (all Gens esp1) uses a front anti roll bar thats too thick.

What makes me think this? Well, I have a Cooper that is now an S. It got the full drive train swap from the S, inc the FARB. It never felt jumpy mid corner before, it does now.
 

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easy test, remove one front arb link and see, over a couple of days if ness, only takes a few minutes.
 

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Bugger
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easy test, remove one front arb link and see, over a couple of days if ness, only takes a few minutes.
Tis this weekends plan, I've not had the inclination to drive to the unit where I keep my tools for a while. I need to have the wheels off for a few jobs this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ordered ST XTA coilovers, whiteline droplinks and RCAs over the weekend.

So shall defo interested if that is the case. I’d imagine if you keep the droplinks short that would mean there isn’t loads of loads on the arb thus helping?
 

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2010 R56 N18
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Personally (not much facts to back this up) but I think the S (all Gens esp1) uses a front anti roll bar thats too thick.

What makes me think this? Well, I have a Cooper that is now an S. It got the full drive train swap from the S, inc the FARB. It never felt jumpy mid corner before, it does now.
Interesting. So do you have Cooper springs and dampers or Cooper S?
 

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the length of the links won't change the tension of the bar so much as how it moves, the aim being to keep it horizontal as I understand.
 
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I've got this too. If it's the same issue as mine (I think it is given the description) then it's anti roll bars that seem to have the biggest effect. Setting the front ARB to it's softest setting and the rear to it's hardest setting does improve it a bit. Failing that you've just got to keep feeding the power in as you go round the corner. A neutral throttle position is bad enough, if you lift off then it really feels dangerous!
 

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I had my front wishbone bushes replaced with Powerflex last year and it made very little difference to this characteristic unfortunately.
Interesting, that's the one I would say could cause that sort of movement.

Otherwise as others have said, possibly ARB is too beefy for the application. I wouldn't have thought an issue with the shocks.
 

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2010 R56 N18
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57 Posts
The situation that seems to cause the worst sideways bounce is when I hit raised expansion gaps on motorway junctions. There's one near me that is just at the point where you turn right to continue round the junction. If I hit it with the wheels pointing forward at 30mph or less it's ok. Any faster with any amount of steering to the right and the car bounces to the left and the steering wheel pulls to the left. The car literally hops left. I reckon if I went 40 the car would bounce into the left lane. Its proper scary.

So for me it seems worst with bumps that effect both front wheels at the same time. But I do get a similar but reduced effect from bumps on one side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah. What you are describing is definitely the same as me.

All 4 minis that I have had did it. It is annoying and as you say feels dangerous, at the least very unnerving and far from confidence inspiring.
 

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2010 R56 N18
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Yep, they're the same words I'd use to describe it.
I'll be interested to hear the results of lordf's experiment this weekend as I'd really like to get to the bottom of this issue.
 

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Personally (not much facts to back this up) but I think the S (all Gens esp1) uses a front anti roll bar thats too thick.

What makes me think this? Well, I have a Cooper that is now an S. It got the full drive train swap from the S, inc the FARB. It never felt jumpy mid corner before, it does now.
Exactly what coastal racing said to me.
Remove FARB or put a Cooper one on.
 

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Hmmm I don’t seem to get this at all?
I have a 2003 R53 and I goes exactly where I tell it to, the only thing I have done that hasn’t been mentioned is fit Whiteline castor control front wishbone rear bushes in the ‘anti-liftoff’ position. (Offset hole at 45 deg towards the front end).
 
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