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2005 R52 Cooper S Convertible
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi pickles, I joined up at the other forum but it seems a bit quiet and very badly organised. How difficult is it to include separate areas based on generations of Mini? Ah, and then I find here. So here I am. I'll copy my first posts over there and continue here as tbh I think I'd fit in better here. Time will tell....


Car Land vehicle Vehicle Wheel Tire


Original reg was D13NUT if anyone knows it...?

Hi guys, finally bit the bullet and scratched the Mini itch.I'm a serial car buyer so it was inevitable eventually. My last Mini was an original type that we cut the roof off, the door section out and welded it back together so that you sat on the back seat to drive. I Mini shorty I believe they're called nowadays. Anyway, that was over 25yrs ago...

So, got a 2005 Cooper S Convertible in black with 92k in pretty good nick. Drives nice and lovely. Apart from those daft 18" rims ( Possibly newer JCW?? I can't ID them) and 205/40s which are not good for the 'roads' in South Wales so might have to look into 16/17s instead. The engine is my biggest issue. It goes lovely. Coming from my Audi TT Mk1 225 it is definitely slower but much better lower down. But a much nicer driving position and comfort- I'm 6'2" and all in the legs. More headroom for my son in the back but as the seat base is longer (and needs a booster which doesn't go well with the scooped out seat base- the rear of a TT is registered as a legal child seat and has a short seat base so their legs go down vertically to the floor whereas on the Mini they are more stretched out thus needing the front seat further forward) but less boot space. Win some lose some. But I've got plenty of other cars for 'other' roles including an X350 Super V8 Jag XJ.

Anyway, back to the engine. The MOT history shows an oil leak mentioned as advisory for the last few years and the previous owners where too lazy/stingy to get it cleaned and fix it. Reg is LV05LXW, feel free to look it up on MOT history. Not sure where its coming from so I will clean it all up after I've changed the driveshafts next week as they've both split the boots and flung their guts everywhere, which doesn't help... Looks like rocker gasket for definite, and I'll try and do the oil cooler as well.

So, the problem is this. Starts fine, drives lovely and smooth. No prob. After a half hour run or so just after I bought it, not ragging it just doing 2krpm or so cruising about, the oil light cam on orange when I stopped at lights. Go up 100rpm or so and it went out. Next lights it was red and I'm panicking now, but engine stil idling and running smooth with no noises. Coincidently, this was at that 'orrible roundabout in Cowley just outside the Mini plant- I think it was homesick... Next lights and it was still red but now the idle was faltering and trying to stall, I gave it a bit of revs and it was still fine and smooth and drove carefully into work nearby. Once it had sat a while I checked the oil but wasn't sure as oil was so clean and dipstick not the easiset to read. Added 500ml of 5/40 fully synth and left it. 3hrs later when I finished work it rattled for a split second on startup. But was fine after. Drove it 45mins to gf parent's house and was fine all the way. After an hour we drove back along the M4 home to Newport doing 70 al the way on cruise. All was well. Next morning, starts and runs fine. Finished work at 6 and slight rattle on start again. Apart from that it was fine. Checking oil and still at top of wider orange bit of dipstick I think. No excess leaking of oil that I can tell. Doesn't drip anywhere. Coolant fine too. No smell of petrol in the oil either. GF said she could see black/grey smoke coming out the exhaust on the way home, but she's not mechanically minded so wasn't able to say if it was constant or under welly. Constant ish she thinks, but I couldn't see anything in the headlights behind. Tail pipes quite sooty though and a ridge of black carbon on the bottom edge of the tips. Drove to work in Oxford again the next day and all was good. Friday was local and all good. Maybe a good run had cleared it? Anyway, drove a sedate ish run across tiny country lanes to Cwmbran (half an hour) and the oil light comes on red again as soon as we come to a stop in Cwmbran and the engine idle falters and wants to die but after 3s or so it levels out OK but still red light. Checked car and everything seems OK under the bonnet. Half an hour in Halfords later and the car starts and runs fine and hasn't done it again.

AFAIK the car is standard in the engine apart from a RAMAIR cone filter (ugh..) and heatshield around it. I use OBD Fusion app ( does more than my Torque Pro) and the intake temps do rise from 27c normal to about 57c in traffic when stop start or idling at lights. I'm not sure what oil is in there but it does look clean. I'll be changing that out today. I also put some fuel injector cleaner in yesterday and have a better injector cleaner coming to go in the next but one tank. I'm going to examine the plugs today as well. The oil pressure sensor looks very clean, possibly new, but I have a new one as that was my first thought- dirty connection or knurdled sensor, but the faltering idle and new look of the sensor steers to something more sinister. And add in the black smoke.


Any thoughts? Oil pump? Pressure relief valve in oil filter housing? PLugs? INjectors? O2 sensor? I love this car already so need to sort it asap.


If the injectors are shafted can I fit 380cc ones without a map and it'd run well ? Can I fit 550cc and get it mapped to suit a standard tune for it to run well asap? I plan to do the pulley, intercooler and cat back exhaust later on as I just can't help myself...).






So an update. Digging about online suggests the oil light at idle only is most likely a fault in the oil filter housing- either wrong or badly fitted filter or the pressure relief valve broken. Changed the filter last night and filled up with 5/40 along with a new oil pressure switch. Nothing wrong in the oil filter area, and no change. Took plugs out and they're a twin electrode Bosch R6 BFR7LDC+ RUSSIA stamped on it. Number 1 has a few white flaked looking deposits and they all have soot on the ring but the rest is clean. Have ordered standard spec NGK 3199 BKR6EQUP Platinum Spark Plugs just to rule them out. I've ran a tank worth of Wynns IIRC injector cleaner through on E5 petrol, but no difference. BG 44k PLATINUM injector cleaner will go in next tank as just filled up from empty to flush through first. My garage suggests doing a flush with Forte's stuff as could be gunk on the pickup/pump. I'll ask about taking the sump off and having a look as unlikely to be the pump I'd have thought. I've also got a chain tensioner on the way.

Aircon was regassed but still not amazing tbh compared to my Volvo C70 and Xtrail. Both driveshafts replaced so can now go ahead and degrease off the engine etc next week sometime as tripping in to London to get a 140 year old Victorian dress restored and Hyper Japan has become this weekend's priority I'm reliably informed.. :rolleyes::unsure:



Not 100% convinced about this Ramair filter and shield malarky. Surely that is going to drag in hot air in traffic whcih is when my problems start? Is the standard airbox. maybe with foam flat filter, all that bad? It doesn't even make much noise tbh... neither does the exhaust...






So another update...

Changed the plugs to the NGK 3199 BKR6EQUP and they cured the red oil light. I noticed that the light comes on when the revs are dropping at idle. New plugs and no idle drop, so No oil light. Was simply low pressure due to low idle. It stioll tries to die at adle every now and then but it cures itself within a few seconds. This appears to be normal and linked to the carbon canister in the tank breather emmitting fuel vapour into the manifold during idle, made worse by trying to fill the tank too high and hot weather. So I'm living with that. Garage levelled the oil when he changed the driveshafts and oil pressure switch. Just got a new bottle of Shell Helix HX8 ECT in 5/40 so that'll go in soon, along with the chain tensioner. So far so good! Only trouble I've had is that a couple of times the roof hasn't moved when trying to lower or raise. It does after a few secs so I'm watching it for patterns in what I do when it doesn't cooperate. Need to replace the gear knob though and first car I need to get a windblocker because it's so windy it doesn't keep the heat in when the heater is on. A cushion between the seats (above the handbrake) makes a great arm rest and partial windblocker for now. But I'll make something like the Mk1 SLK where the mesh goes on the roll hoops for when littlun is in the back. He's autistic and doesn't like wind in his face. He's fine in the front though. Also I've ordered a new standard airbox and filter as I don't like the heatsoak in the Ramair filter nor the throttle lag due to not being in a box.


And over the last few days, the roof is playing up slightly. Every now and then, the cycle will pause before dropping or raising the roof. The sunroof bit works perfect, but then the next stage can sometimes have a 5 second delay and the same can happen when I'm trying to raise it from fully dropped.


So to keep an eye on things- using OBD Fusion and a VeePeak but as I stream onto the stereo and use maps, it's not ideal.


Update, so I fitted a flat panel K&N filter and original airbox lid. The Ramair filter kept coming loose from the original intake pipe so that wasn't ideal and I don't like the lag you get without an airbox, nor the intake temps in slow traffic. So It had to go. At first it felt really sluggish, but on the way back from dodging all the street pissheads in Cardiff, it felt far perkier. Got home and took for a rag to the local shop through all the new 20mph MAIN roads (thanks, Welsh 'Government') and sounds and feels good. However... have noticed that there is coolant under the engine and the expansion tank was almost empty. Shite.... Rad looks clean and dry and so I'm guessing it's soemthign to do with the water pump. I'd topped up the coolant before going to Cardiff and still seems fine but I'll keep a very close eye on it.


Anyone know a good Mini specialist near Newport that can do supercharger service, pulley, belts, tensioner, waterpump etc all in one hit?
 

Registered
2005 R52 Cooper S Convertible
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Just been out for a rag and checked the oil at the shops (can't do it at home as everything is about as level as a pisshead's walk) and feck me, but does it like a drop of oil!! I reckon it's used about a litre in 1k miles! I'll check it properly tomorrow and monitor it.
 

Registered
2016 Mini Clubman Cooper SD
Joined
49 Posts
Hi and welcome to this site too 馃榾 Still sorry about Newport. Yup, I 've got a different username on here. Does Bimmercode and Bimmerlink work on an '05 Mini? Got both here if ever you need to code/check anything.
 

Registered
2005 R52 Cooper S Convertible
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That鈥檚 a lot of oil, sure there鈥檚 no big leak somewhere,
Black sooty exhaust and The Burd said it had black smoke out back when I first got it..? Rocker cover weeps but nowt serious IMHO. I've got to get the block cleaned off and see further, but there's no Land Rover style drips.
 

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1,008 Posts
Have a real good look for leaks. My understanding of a sooty exhaust is that it's caused by running rich:

Check the gasket between the oil filter housing and block and the two rings on the oil cooler, also attached to the oil filter housing.

Have good look where the gearbox joins the block. If you see any oil weeping there, the rear main crank seal has gone. You will find it behind the flywheel.

Do similar around the aux belt to see if the front crank bearing is OK.

Make sure the rocker cover leak is small, they leak a lot more than you'd expect.

The sump gasket can also leak, but as it at the bottom of the engine oily reside there often comes from a leak higher above.

Finally check the crank position sensor, on the front of the block.
 

Registered
2005 R52 Cooper S Convertible
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks! I need to get underneath properly and have a damned good look but as the CVs were split, there's shite everywhere so needs a good clean off first. I would have thought that if it was leaking that badly though then it would be dripping but it's not really.

I agree on black smoke and soot being rich. Odd as it had a Ramair cone thing, which kept coming undone...
 

Premium Member
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1,122 Posts
Welcome and good write up.

Nigel has covered the key oil leaks it is likely to have. if you were using that much oil through the engine burning it I'd expect it to be very blue out the back.

Like you said if they couldn't be bothered and left the oil leak advisory for years could be a combination of of them.

They can be good reliable cars (mine seems to be thus far despite track abuse) but really is down to previous/current owners care and addressing issues as they come up.

People say they are notorious for leaking but they are between 14 and 20 years old so are bound to need some tlc.
 
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