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Discussion Starter #1
Have had my Mini for about a year but haven't joined a forum so thought I would check in here... Hopefully there can be some meets or something this year 馃

Cheers Russ

102300
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks 馃榿

It's standard power wise, I had it checked and dyno'd at Lohen and produced 187bhp so pleased with that.

I've de-chromed it all bar the front head lights, replaced all the turbo hoses to green Samco, Inlet hose to Forge as Samco don't do one to match yet unfortunately and an ITG air filter.

Front and rear strut braces have been done, I've got an adjustable Whiteline ARB to fit and just ordered, Goodridge brake lines, EBC grooved and drilled discs and mintex 1144 pads.

Suspension and bushing is on the to do list. So much choice and advice it's hard to decide which way to go.

I'm on the hunt for some spare wheels as I've just booked a track day at Castle Combe for the end of March as I want to test her handling out.

102302


102303

Pre-Forge Inlet

102304
 

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Quite like that green. Great to hear that you will be using it on track! Doing it the right way imo, brakes and handling prior to engine.

I've fitted a Whiteline recently albeit to an R53, pretty sure the process is the same and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be just be sure to use 6 sided sockets.

Depending on your current drop links it may be worth replacing them too, the joints can wear and become sloppy which will prevent you getting the best out of the bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I tried to match the wing mirrors and so I've got the green and black theme now so no going back, lol.

Yeah, it is always tempting to go for the power but like you I think the setup is more important first. I have seen it with my previous car that the setup was better to have over power. Of course in the end I want to have a stage 2 setup 馃槀

Re the ARB thanks for the advice. I've looked into it and it isn't too bad but I'm not sure if it is the same on the R53 but you have to release the rear subframe to get the bar across, I don't think it is a major drama just more awkward. I'll def have a look at the droplinks though, worth a check, I want to run it medium firmness to start with so might add stress if they're not great.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Always good to have the advice, I generally only have 6 sided ones but that's more by just what I've picked rather than by design 馃憣馃徏
 

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Looks great, another LCI N18 owner :)

What type of rear strut brace is that, does it affect the rear seats at all?
 

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Thanks, I tried to match the wing mirrors and so I've got the green and black theme now so no going back, lol.

Yeah, it is always tempting to go for the power but like you I think the setup is more important first. I have seen it with my previous car that the setup was better to have over power. Of course in the end I want to have a stage 2 setup 馃槀

Re the ARB thanks for the advice. I've looked into it and it isn't too bad but I'm not sure if it is the same on the R53 but you have to release the rear subframe to get the bar across, I don't think it is a major drama just more awkward. I'll def have a look at the droplinks though, worth a check, I want to run it medium firmness to start with so might add stress if they're not great.
Absolutely, a younger me would have definitely gone straight for the power first.

Same for the R53, have to drop the subframe to manoeuvre the bar over the middle subframe mounts. I left two on one side very loose and fully removed the other side to get that bit of extra clearance. You only need one side to be able to get over the mounting point as once past that you can angle the bar behind the other coming out and also back in. There is a loom in the middle, be careful not to snag it.

You should get a project thread on the go, always good to read through.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks great, another LCI N18 owner :)

What type of rear strut brace is that, does it affect the rear seats at all?
Hey 馃榿 good news I'm not alone 馃槄

It is a mini works one and I bought it as it doesn't interfere with the seats as I use the car daily too so needed it to work together.

Here's the link

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Absolutely, a younger me would have definitely gone straight for the power first.

Same for the R53, have to drop the subframe to manoeuvre the bar over the middle subframe mounts. I left two on one side very loose and fully removed the other side to get that bit of extra clearance. You only need one side to be able to get over the mounting point as once past that you can angle the bar behind the other coming out and also back in. There is a loom in the middle, be careful not to snag it.

You should get a project thread on the go, always good to read through.
Yep, likewise 馃槵 Ah right, that's good to know if is the same so you've experienced it and the tip is most helpful with the subframe and the loom. Did you manage to do it on the ground with jacks?

I shall look into a project thread too, I never really think about it and then most of it is done or I don't do a whole lot compared to some awesome builds...
 

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Hey 馃榿 good news I'm not alone 馃槄

It is a mini works one and I bought it as it doesn't interfere with the seats as I use the car daily too so needed it to work together.

Here's the link


Awesome, looks like we have the same wheels too, R116 Infinite Stream

Thanks for the info on the strut brace, will take a look mine is a daily too so that sounds great.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Awesome, looks like we have the same wheels too, R116 Infinite Stream

Thanks for the info on the strut brace, will take a look mine is a daily too so that sounds great.
Ah cool, but yes they are the R116 and nice wheels aren't they, so I won't change them.

No worries, the brace either comes unpainted like mine or you can have it painted for an extra 拢75.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great looking Mini. (y) I was thinking about fitting some Red Samco hoses to my R56 JCW. Are they easy to fit?
I would not say easy but not particularly hard just really fiddly. The top two on the left are fine I just needed to remove the airbox. The front right was just a bit fiddly to get the torx screw out of the sound resonator. The worst for me was the small front left one as you look it connecting to the intercooler. Just tight to get in without taking the bumper off. I did have to cut a few of the hoses off as the they were welded on.
And the big thing is, don't forgot to change the O ring on the metal section of the top left hose from the old one to the new one as it doesn't come with it supplied.
I have a few pics I'll add to my build thread when I start one 馃槵
 
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