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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
R53 convertible

106k

Dark Silver

Full black leather

Heated seats

Chrome Line interior and exterior

Manual heater controls with a/c

Bullet 17's on run flat tyres, a couple nearing the time to perhaps renew, nsf a bit shoulder worn which is typical, the osf around 3-3.5mm

Totally standard car

Chilli Pack, with factory LSD (BKL box)

This car I have done some work on,

I knew the rocker cover/plug tube seals are leaking so these have been renewed as required with Victor Reinz seals, some of the bolts I had already renewed with correct OEM bolts.

The cooling fan wasn't working on stage one so this has just had a new original style resistor renewed.

The cooling system has been flushed and refilled with OEM blue coolant as usual.

The discs look fairly recent although corroding a bit from standing, these have cleaned up with a bit of use,

The exhaust is an aftermarket fairly recent replacement, it doesn't have the indent to clear the convertible rear brace so does knock here a bit over some bumps, it looks a bit low but all hangers are present,

The tyres are run flats, rears budget and front's Dunlop.

The crank sensor 'O' ring has just been changed, and all the leaked oil cleaned from the front of the block,

The oil pressure switch has been renewed with a genuine part due to it leaking through the switch body and putting the light on, this has also been cleaned off.

I have fitted a better drivers door check strap as it didn't hold at all,

I have swapped the left bonnet strut which was weaker,

I have just renewed the NS track rod end with an OEM quality Lemforder part which I always use, I note the part wasn't that old and was yet another cheap part people choose to use which just don't last, anyway, done now.

There is some minor delamination around the outside of the front top mounts so I'll address what I need to there but don't appear to be an immediate concern at all,

I've removed the neutral gate gear selector, lubricated all selector parts, rotated the sliding block to use its good sides which reduces some lash at the gear lever, so the selector is nicer generally,

Price £3,250 to sell quickly including whatever else I need or want to do to it prior to sale, if you want more it's by negotiation which will have value for you I'm sure. Happy to talk about price to a point at a viewing only, but don't expect it both ways, stuff done and price dropped etc, hence best discussed in person where you're in a position to secure the car with a cash deposit.

Don't get me wrong, I am a realist, I just won't be correcting every single item especially cosmetic areas where non essential, and when money is given off the car. What I will do though, is anything agreed, and will try to make this an easy purchase for you. For any mod work a full deposit for parts is required which will be non refundable.

As usual certain performance parts I supply can be installed labour FOC, Newman, Kent or Catcams performance camshafts, YCW coilovers, Maniflow exhausts, other parts by negotiation at lower labour costs, trailing arm conversion, suspension bushes, alignment, big brakes, gear lever, other mechanical preventative work required etc.

Cosmetically this is a smart tidy car overall, a few trolley type dings which is fair @ 106k and fifteen years, some minor chips on rear door edges, and a few tiny chips (3 or 4) in a row like a stone bounce etc above the osr arch trim slightly in front of it all pictured below, it's minor stuff stood in front of the car, rear bumper scuff on rear face, couple of chips also, and small compression on right corner where the paint has crazed, similar to the front right corner. This is minor 'fair wear' stuff but I can see it, so it gets mentioned(y)

The roof fabric displays typical signs of use and exposure over the 15 years, no holes exist, four very small chafes I can see in symmetrical locations midway and rear lower most likely from cover friction against each area from the vehicle in use when the roof is down, all rag tops have it if actually used, they are not holes! The side plastic sewn in trim/gutter is perished as is typical, this does render the cars more susceptible to some ingress in heavy rain or washed, again it's typical and fair age/use related wear, as is the rear lower waist trim which is cracked along the top as nearly all of them are, with some broken away above the third stop lamp, most are broken up more than this. See the pics below. The description is accurate.

Any cosmetic issue can be addressed by negotiation, but I'm not painting the whole car when it's trivial mostly, people tend to value mechanical reliability over chips and scuffs.

There are some usual kerb marks to alloys. I can arrange for refurbishment @cost for these either by powder coating or to original finish via Pristine Wheels for who I'm an official agent, subject to deposit receipt. I have some crown alloys as an option which need refurb really, I have optional nice two piece web design Ronal R98's in sparkle finish which I might actually fit for display purposes, these are £480 (the rims will separate unlike many).

The front spots are a bit rusty, the bottoms of the reflectors are anyway, and the external trims towards the bottom so I might just remove them, best regard these as no longer installed but you can have them if wanted?

The white borders of the bonnet stripes have orange staining, it might clean but doubt it.

The N/S decal squares I note one of is peeling slightly, and a low one on the left door is broken away a bit, easily replaced I'd think, or some might just remove them all (I might actually).

The gear knob chrome I note was peeling which has now been substituted,

The stereo is aftermarket which can be substituted for OEM radio/CD, it works ok and is nothing flash.

Slight typical minor wear/creasing on the right of the drivers seat exists which again is more than fair for the age etc, I have recoloured this so all that is present is just creasing, no worn off colour etc, and it looks smart. Thanks go to the forum for the link to this stuff.

A couple of tiny 'nicks' exist in the lower rear corner of the OS door interior panel, I'd guess due to either being kicked or more likely the twisted seat belt perhaps,

Some small some marks on top of the left console upright are present.

I note there is slight corrosion forming at the bottom of the rear lights, it is minor, if you plan to remedy this in the future I can get it done professionally, if I do it prior to sale the vehicle cost is likely to be firm, it's open for discussion. Pictures of all minor issues listed below.

It's nice, not perfect, just nice, tidy, original, honest, and available for absolutely any inspection, on stands, via diagnostics, and via images held of any work I do (or you request), some copies of which can be supplied for a future owner file ;O)

The roof works perfectly both in sunroof mode or fully open including window drop/raise

There is a windbreak included in it's storage bag!

The car is to be sold. See below for further work done since first posting, you have the opportunity to ask, reserve, arrange to view before, during, or after any other work I might do, and of course pay a deposit to secure it(y)

Msg via MT or Facebook '@WirralMini'

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thought I'd drive this a bit yesterday, quickly noticed the temp gauge drop on the motorway, so changed the thermostat, or rather installed one as it had been removed. Obviously the cooling fan stage one not working had caused an overflow at some point and this is the typical reaction of those that don't know etc. So new OEM coolant, new thermostat and seal, car runs to temp well, no pressurising, also runs with the cap off also when hot with no backing up which some won't, system is clean.

I also thought the oil looked high, I hadn't changed it yet but took some out to correct it. It seems someone felt the need to add more when the oil light was on due to the leaking sensor, perhaps hoping it would put the light off. They added four litres!!!! Yes, four litres removed to get the level correct, mad huh?

So, the little bits attended to are:

Fan resistor renewed with correct style in original location
OS door check strap exchanged
Crank sensor 'o' ring renewed and all leaked oil cleaned off
All heavily corroded rocker cover bolts renewed with correct OEM new bolts
Missing intercooler support bracket bolt replaced
NS track rod end renewed with OEM quality Lemforder part
Front bumper cover lower retainer nuts renewed with correct items
Missing NSF wheel arch liner fixings renewed with OEM parts
Missing OSF wheel arch liner fixings renewed with OEM parts
OSF seat bolster recoloured with leather dye to remove slight beige area
Valve timing checked, retimed, and tensioner cleaned/reset
Rocker cover area cleaned of leaked oil
Leaking oil pressure switch renewed with OEM part and all leaked oil cleaned off
Thermostat renewed with aftermarket part and new seal, housing checked and cleaned OEM coolant added
Seat belts untwisted and buckle orientation corrected
Microfilter renewed with carbon style
Battery charged
A/C recharged
Gear knob exchanged
Oil & filter change (OEM filter)
Gear linkage for neutral gate removed, cube rotated, all of box linkage lubricated
Diagnostic fault code check completed
Adaptions reset
MOT'd (no advisories)

Pending mostly to be done:
Rear PDC sensors x3 to investigate
Window alignment to check
Rocker cover seals to renew
Possible Newman PH1/2 performance camshaft to add
Possible swap to my preferred FGR7DQP+ spark plugs
Front tyre exchange possibly
Spot lamps to remove
Decals to possibly remove
Possibly reinstate OEM radio/CD
Possible change of rear waistline trims

Anything 'deal breaker' to be agreed.

This one displays no reason to have to strip the motor for any reason but if you view it 'as is' and feel there is something of concern, such is my way, I will happily pull it apart and refresh stuff. If I were to do things like this at this stage, people would only think there was something wrong to warrant it, so for now it stays as it is, I've driven it in various ways for around 170 miles, had it running idling for ages, it wastes little time getting to 110, it's a quiet motor, it does have a rattle over bumps from the aftermarket stock exhaust which hits the rear brace convertibles have, OEM pipes have a dented section, I might put similar in if required, otherwise the car is a rag top so has some scuttle shake and trim noise which is a feature for most. I might silicone the roof seals etc but otherwise it's a nice car ;O)

Can talk about price (sensibly), only in person with a deposit ready.

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been aware there is a light noise like something is on the drive belt which I'd put down to the car standing for most of the last year so took the belt off to confirm and the noise was still there. The pattern of the noise was only ever going to be the belt or chain so chain it must be.

The clutch I decided was too heavy and was annoying me so today the engine came out, box and old clutch removed, inside the bell housing cleaned, back of engine cleaned, flywheel checked and cleaned, LUK clutch installed with new bearing, gearbox mating face cleaned, rear main oil seal confirmed leaking, seal renewed with Victor Reinz, clutch fork bushes cleaned and lubricated.

I knew the rocker cover was leaking and knew I was going to be exploring the noise/chain etc so with the rocker cover off the seals will be renewed. This was an opportunity to check the cam condition and consider fitting a performance option at least for the period the car remains with me and I can demo it with one etc. The cams No.2 and No.4 exhaust lobes are worn, so it made the upgrade an easy decision. I do have a good used stock cam but as I'd been considering fitting a Newman PH1/2 I chose to do that ;O)

Removing the crank damper and belt tensioner while the motor was out is obviously easier, timing cover removed, engine first rotated to align the timing marks confirming it is still in time, it was obvious the timing chain front guide was toast, confronted by a moderate size piece of guide wedged behind the cover and a smaller piece wedged into the chain running over the top sprocket. So sprocket and guides removed, sprocket condition checked and teeth in great condition, no burring or profile change apparent, tensioner removed and reset/operated several times, and rinsed, new OEM chain installed along with new OEM front guide, new timing cover oil seals and oil pump seal plus oil pump removed and gears checked and renewed with OEM parts, pump housing cleaned, outer oil pump feed cleared of debris, and reassembled.

Ran out of time to complete it today but just need to refit the crank damper and belt tensioner, renew rocker cover seals, refit cover, refit drive belt, then the motor assembly can be rehung in the car ;O)

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The actual clutch wear wasn't that bad considering 106k, the flywheel was in great condition and is a MINI original, I think reflecting the car has had an easy life that most convertibles probably do in general. The rear main seal wasn't a bad leak at all, some of the oil was from the crankshaft sensor 'o' ring I'd previously replaced, all of this oil has gone now completely.
 
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.... and that's where I stopped haha, not too bad for a mid morning spontaneous 'let's go pull the motor out of the car' decision, more pics to follow....

I changed the oil last week but will do it again because the sump is coming off to retrieve the remains of the guide, I'll check the oil pickup is clear and while the sump is off I'll probably refresh the rod bearings with King standard type and size with new OEM bolts and Victor Reinz gasket as I keep all this stuff in anyway.

Make me a sensible offer.... ;O) Bearing in mind the cam may be swapped back to stock.... the car is to be sold though.

Few if anybody anywhere would be doing this work for a car being sold, and certainly not using OEM or OEM quality parts.

The car isn't perfect, but it's very good. Pics are all there for the next owner with nothing to hide.
 
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today I refitted the pulleys etc and then took the recently changed oil back out and sump off, strainer/pick up off, removed a fair amount of plastic debris from the pan and out of the strainer, chose to remove the end shells which made me glad I did as they were very tired, all the top shells showing a lot of colour, so these were renewed with King standard shells, the crank journals are still nice enough so a rinse off, new Reinz gasket and all refitted. I also had a look at the pre-cat using an endoscope to confirm it was intact ;O)

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sump back on, more pics to follow....
 

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The level of effort, care and attention to detail you put in to these cars is amazing! Honestly. Can’t wait for my car to be in your hands. If I was in the position to, I’d be buying this too!
 
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Ha, thanks Alan, just making this a bit better for the next person ;O)

Left the heat shield off as it needs another one, airbox off for access, initial restart and it is nice and quiet, apart from the noise where the camera was on the inlet manifold haha.

 
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Just a small update on this car

I've swapped the coil pack with the one on my black car due to a sporadic coil circuit fault,

I've restored the full function of the rear parking sensors.

;O)
 
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This is epic, if I needed another car I'd definitely buy this, it's like buying new 🤌🏼amazing detail for a sale.
 
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