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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Bloc, cylinders and head looks good to me, but I'm not an expert
What do you think ?

Only thing I will say, just for the science, I tried some liquid headgasket repair stuff.. it's shit, don't do it.

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Just this lobe looking a bit weird..

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Yeah, plans for the engine are on the expensive side now.
engine gonna get forged most likely, BVH with PH2 Cam, injectors and E85 remap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Ok quick question: Imagine the mini would make around 260~280HP, what Cluch/flywheel combo would be suitable without breaking the bank ?
I'm ok to get a 1000£ competition cluch if needed. But maybe I don't need to, and a more reasonable solution would be just as good for fast road use..
I don't plan on tracking the car, just hooning around in the nice B roads near where I live. And fuck around with the big expensive german cars on the autobahn 😅
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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a) you probably don't need to fully forge it for the use

b) you won't likely be at 260-280 with a PH2

c) the stock clutch fitted to ideally a GTT flywheel using a Helix organic clutch, or cheaper is a TTV non rebuildable and slightly noisier flywheel (during start up)
 
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
a) I 100% percent agree with you, I don't "need" to do it, but at this point, might as well ?

b) Damn I was pretty sure I saw some 260+ figures with Newman cam PH2 on here from back is the days ? what do you recon would do the trick in that regard ?

c) My stock cluch is bad shit gone. I was already considering the GTT Flywheel, seeing how praise it was on here, was also considering pairing with a FX400.
But if I can go cheaper with a more mainstream brand like Lux, Valeo or Hellix.. and get the job done the same way, might as well.
 

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I have a Valeo SMF conversion on mine and it is easy to drive. I am happy with the conversion. I don't know about the power handling, but I'm sure someone on here will be able to confirm that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The engine is fully ready for rebuild, I'll not bother with removing the crankshaft or the piston, I'll leave this to the experts.
From my point of view, even if the lower part of the piston is broken, the cylinder wall seems ok. I don't think I'll need to get it machined, but once again, I'll leave this to the pro.
Now seing this really make me question if a want everything forged.. Maybe just the pistons, just because I don't want to redo this engine ever again 😅

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Here is where the problem was all along, I have no idea how this happened..

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For ref, here is how it should look like

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Can't wait to start the mini again, it's like an itch in the back of my neck that I need to scratch for 3 years now !
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Has anyone tried to paint all the "dirty grey" bits like the SC horns, the intake manifold and the engine supports with VTH wrinkle engine paint ?

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I want to give it a try since everything is off the mini, and I always thought that these bare metal part were ugly when oxydized..
But I don't want to go the expensive way of powder coating it.
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Vapour or media blast?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Yeah, I mean, for sur I'm going to clean/prep everything before paint.
But I'm talking about this wrinkle paint in particular. I think it would look mad on the SC horn
 

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Have seen some with a wrinkle finish, doesn't look too bad actually.

Also seen people running with part of the piston skirts missing, unsure why it happens, someone more knowledgeable should do though.
 

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Has anyone tried to paint all the "dirty grey" bits like the SC horns, the intake manifold and the engine supports with VTH wrinkle engine paint ?

View attachment 106190 View attachment 106191



I want to give it a try since everything is off the mini, and I always thought that these bare metal part were ugly when oxydized..
But I don't want to go the expensive way of powder coating it.
There are some pics over on the NAM forum of the supercharger, horns, and other engine parts painted with VHT cast aluminum color ceramic engine paint that looked really good IMO. I’m thinking of refinishing my R56 trailing arms with it before the install.

I think the second pic in post #31 is an after shot: My guide to shaving a yak - North American Motoring
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I've made my mind on what I want to do with the engine.
Full rebuild is being booked, with forged piston, ported BVH, agressive cam (I don't know what for now), 550cc injectors and E85 remap. also got the Airtec oil cooler and a LSD on the way.

Now I've found a good deal on a CompetitionClutch kit, but I don't know if I should go for the stage 2 or 3:



Assuming the car will make 250+hp, what do you reccon ? I'm ok with both since I can have them at the same price, but I feel like the stage 2 may be a littke weak..
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Called the guys at Competition Clutch and my motersport specialist yesterday, I went with the stage 3, should still be "smooth" ( as a R53 can be...) and support the new power increase.
 
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