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Hi Zute,
I work for a company that has a Castrol dept, and i often hear them telling customers that modern cars have standard oil from the factory, 1st service 12months later, and that running in oil is no longer really used. They suggest using a correct grade cheap oil for that 500 miles and then change for the oil you want?
Sounds plausible, but i'm no expert
 

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I s use Lucas assembly lube on bearing surfaces. I've not used break in oil for a couple of reasons. Its wickedly expensive for what it is, and probably more relevant is that a a mini never needed it when new. I think the concept is a relic from the days of dinosaur juice
 

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Have a look at opieoils




J
 

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if looking for cheap, the 'only' semi synth 5/30 (option grade) that mentions BMW at all is £12.95 the closest you're possibly going to get to a 'sort of' specified oil for the short term at a price, although somewhere lower in the quality spectrum perhaps but free post, yay, haha.


or use Millers perhaps, 1320 run them in on the rollers, some load, mixed rpm, up and down the box etc. On the road at first I wouldn't run over 4 for the initial run through the gears at mixed loads etc but after a recheck of stuff I'd run it at similar loads and would be happy to let it spin up a bit freely with that oil. Or just use a flushing oil of your choice, initial run for 1/2hr, lighter loads through the gears never labouring it, still keep it spinning a bit, maybe again briefly after a cool down and check, and then just go to your preferred oil. Running in practices will differ, you need some on/off moderate load to get pressure behind the rings just not too much for too long that's all, bearings or rings can handle spinning up just at lighter loads, definitely not laboured, maybe run it for a short period, let it cool and run it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I’ve used Lucas assembly lube on everything bearing, but thinking it’ll need whatever oil I put in there changing after the rings bed in to get rid of all the crap that comes off the bores. It was that first Millers one I was thinking about - you’re right, it’s pricey for something that only stays in for 500 miles. Maybe the eBay special would do just as well, or maybe might be better- I had a chain tensioner fail as a result of an incorrect oil getting put in.

Not sure what I’m going to do yet, not that there’s much hurry since it turns out that my ARP rod bolts won’t be arriving until the end of the month.
 

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Running in oil isn’t that expensive really ~£20, but it’s certainly cheap compare to the cost of your new engine, so why skimp now just in case?



I requested my forged rebuild was done with millers running in oil, also that the bedding in was done on the dyno. Pretty much flat out strait away, lots of overrun etc. It’s been very frugle on oil and looked good on the bore scope inspection.

I don’t believe this going gently for miles and miles, only to put your foot down after 500miles etc.

Metal to metal contact will wear naturally in my opinion almost straight away so why wait.

This Is definitely one that will devide opinion for sure.

We recently bought a Mazda 2, when I spoke to Mazda uk they said that Mazda still bed their engines in on the dyno, but on the synthetic oil that is supplied with the car.

Horses for courses!
 

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I suspect this is going to be a bit divisive, but what's the recommended oil for breaking in new rings and bearings? I know for example that 1320 use some type of mineral oil after re-ringing, though they don't state what exactly they use.

Will this work, or is it completely wrong and likely to bugger something up? https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-115257-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-mineral-engine-oil.aspx
When I rebuilt my engine I spoke to Opie about oils. The advice they gave me was that I would risk bore glazing if I didn't use a running-in oil. I used the Millers that you link to and ran the engine gently for the first hundred miles to gain confidence as it's my first one, but then didn't hold back at all. Some stuff I read said that you had to give it the beans to disrupt the oil film in the bores and help the rings bed in. After 1000 miles I stuck in a cheap synth and flushed it and refilled with a Granville 5-30w, the only oil I could find that met the regs i thought Minis needed... 8k later, no problems at all...

A mate of mine who had his engine rebuilt by a third party but which was suffering from a main rear seal leak spoke to 1320 and they reckoned that the engine would be f*&cked if he hadn't used a running in oil....
 

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I would take the advice of anyone who charges £1400+ to re-ring (without any actual 'engineering' work) an R53 with a large sprinkle of salt. Yes I know this'll upset the 1320 fanboi's, but that is a piss take of monumental proportions
 

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I would take the advice of anyone who charges £1400+ to re-ring (without any actual 'engineering' work) an R53 with a large sprinkle of salt. Yes I know this'll upset the 1320 fanboi's, but that is a piss take of monumental proportions
My mate said the guy he spoke to was really effing rude too... it left him with no desire to deal with them again.

£1400 to re-ring????? As in, remove head, drop the oil pan, remove pistons, re ring and reassemble? Nothing more!? That's an afternoon's work...
 

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Haha! I'm about to do just that & I'd be happy to knock it off in an afternoon!! Last time i took the head off, I was in here for about a week asking for help!
 
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