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2006 R53
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Discussion Starter #1
My radiator saga continues.. .
Whilst I save some sov's to get my rad either re-cored or replaced I'm considering lobbing a bottle of rad sealant in there. I'm not talking about the old school radweld stuff, but more of a modern solution like Bar's Leaks 1186
 

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Bars 1186 and Kseal seem to the industry choice from what i have seen and heard mate.

I’m not a fan of them and would always avoid if possible, but I see their use when your chasing a small leak on a compact car. The old horror stories of them blocking water galleries seem to in the past now.

We have just used the Kseal in my best mates skyline this weekend, it’s stopped the leak he had in the rad.
We will do a coolant flush this weekend to get rid of any left over product for peace of mind.

I don’t know if it helps Colin, but I have used some Ring UV dye it before, under a black light you can see and chase the leak back.
It’s ideal if you buy a second rad cap with the a valve on top, to pressurise the system when cold.
 

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2006 R53
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Discussion Starter #3
I can see leaks in 3 places! I think the core must just be shit. The heater matrix doesn't really concern me as I can link it out whilst the solution does its job then drop any excess gunk out of the system
 

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Bugger
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25,320 Posts
Hows your core mounted old chap?
 

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2006 R53
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Discussion Starter #5
Hows your core mounted old chap?
There's the thing. It's only mounted on three corners. I had my local rad specialists (Advanced Radiators) have a look and they were happy with it. I'd personally be happier with a fourth mounting point but I've never got round to adding one
 

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I can see leaks in 3 places! I think the core must just be shit. The heater matrix doesn't really concern me as I can link it out whilst the solution does its job then drop any excess gunk out of the system
Was going to add input that you need to watch the heater core, just had to replace my as the old owner chucked some radweld crap in and it blocked the heater core up, nasty stuff!

If you're good with it i'm sure it'll work well, but i wouldn't trust it if I were you.
 

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Bugger
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There's the thing. It's only mounted on three corners. I had my local rad specialists (Advanced Radiators) have a look and they were happy with it. I'd personally be happier with a fourth mounting point but I've never got round to adding one
I helped my father in law re do the rad mounts on one of the morgan race cars, they have always had issues with the cores moving. They use a bar across the top and bottom with four mounts on rubber studs to help reduce the vibrations now.
 
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Premium Member
2006 R53
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Discussion Starter #8
My whole cooling system is a bit 'off piste' so it's a simple job to link out the heater core while the shmoo works it magic (about 20 mins apparently). I'll just dump any excess out when it's done as part of a coolant change
 

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Just remember to mix the stuff up really well in a separate ~2 litre bottle of water/coolant before putting it in the car.

As if you dump the stuff in there neat it can cause issues mate

Is the rad mounted on some flexible mounts Colin? If not it maybe a consideration on the new one, what with the NVH from all the polybushing.
 

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2006 R53
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Discussion Starter #10
Its difficult to explain how its mounted. Its rubber isolated, but not much. Next solution will have a total redesign. The main issue I was faced with was the mounting points are for a caterham which is hardly ideal in a mini lol
 

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Bugger
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Its difficult to explain how its mounted. Its rubber isolated, but not much. Next solution will have a total redesign. The main issue I was faced with was the mounting points are for a caterham which is hardly ideal in a mini lol
The front of the chassis on the mini twists more than people think it does.
 

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2006 R53
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Discussion Starter #13
The front of the chassis on the mini twists more than people think it does.
I think yiu may have hit the nail on the head there. My rad is 100% attached to the bumper reinforcing bar so it may be chassis flex
 

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Bugger
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I think yiu may have hit the nail on the head there. My rad is 100% attached to the bumper reinforcing bar so it may be chassis flex
Theres a reason most cars use a modular 'floating' front end to mount the radiator, it allows for chassis flex, engine movement (on the hoses) etc. On the Morgans we use the front grill supports as the MFE to take the stress off the core. Alu Rads are pretty thin and actually pretty easy to warp and split. The rad should ideally be in its own chassis which can absorb the flexings.

The BrB also takes all the chassis vibrations, suspension hits etc as it has no isolation from them, dynamically or harmonically.
 
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There is often a reason why manufacturers engineer fittings in a certain manner. Something the home mechanic finds out when they decide to change them "for the better".
 
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