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Werthers
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6,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think this thread could be beneficial for some and especially for me.

Here is what is happening with my car.

Over the last 2-3 months, randomly my car has gone into limp mode with the reduced engine power light coming on in the rev counter. I have noticed that this has happened only when the outside air temp has been very cold.

The first time it happened was about 2 months ago, my car was only running a a decat and scorpion exhaust at the time with standard map, everything else was stock. I started my car and as soon as I went to apply full throttle the car would boost for a moment or two and then cut and the light would appear, sometimes the light appeared before I even attempted full throttle. The light would stay on for a while and then randomly the car would work fine again and boost properly for a while and then it would start to go into limp mode again. Then for a few weeks I did not have any problems. Then on the 27th when we went to Lohen, it was a very cold morning, I started the car and the same problem. The journey to Lohen was a mixture of limp mode and normal boost. We got their, cleared some codes on my car and it ran fine, but then on the journey home it went into limp mode, still very cold outside.

I then had 1 month with no issues and during that time we did not have any real cold weather.

Yesterday, I started the car and headed off to meet the guys for the Tunnel run and the car did exactly the same thing, phases of having boost and no boost with the reduced power light coming on.

I have done some searching today on NAM as the MT search button is terrible and found this post:

Hi,

I had a very similar problem, which was very difficult to trouble shoot.

My problem was the essentially the same as yours, getting the half yellow full engine power not available mode, with the 2885 boost pressure control implausability code.

There were two differences. Mine is a JCW. Also, mine would do this both stock and with Jan's tune.

The 2885 code is most commonly due to a leaking diverter valve. You say you have replaced this with a forge. What did yours look like when you took it off? Was the diaphragm torn? With the forge, do you definitely have the proper diverter valvle replacement and not the blow off valve? Have you double checking the plumbing to make sure it is intalled correctly.

I took of the stock diverter, which was torn and installed the forge. On my car installing the forge stopped the car going into limp mode. However, something was just not right, and it still would only boost to around 14psi, when it should be 21psi on a JCW.

Eventually I tracked the fault down to a faulty temperature / pressure sensor, part number 13627582551 (note this is the JCW part, not cooper S). Once that was replaced it fixed the problem and it didn't recur.

The whole process was very frustrating and difficult to diagnose.

Robbo


I have searched his part number and found this:

Number 5 in the diagram:

RealOEM.com   BMW R56 Coop.S JCW Boost air duct/sound generator

The part number for the cooper s and not the JCW is this:

Also number 5 in the diagram:

RealOEM.com   BMW R56 Cooper S Boost air duct/sound generator

I am wondering if I too have a faulty sensor that only plays up when its cold...

I will try and order one of these this week and see if that is the cause of the problem, to me its logical as nothing appears to be mechanically broken on my car as it runs fine with boost and the dyno runs show no issues with the engine.

Has anyone else suffered something similar to what I have and fixed it?
 

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Premium Member
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5,240 Posts
Are you running a boost gauge at all?

I know with turbos in these lovely cold days they tend to over boost. It's how the ECU deals with this spike in boost which is causing the issues.

It may be that the map needs a tweak to allow over boost without throwing a code? I guess it needs to be seen on a Dyno where everything is being logged to see exactly what's happening...
 

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Werthers
Joined
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6,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I am not running a boost gauge.

I don't think its to do with over boost as it goes into limp mode before I even push the car sometimes, it happens as soon as the car is started when cold.

I doubt it is map related as it has happened and behaved the same way on both the stock map and my current map.
 

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Learning!
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5,805 Posts
Could see if 1320 have a spare new/used sensor laying around (dunno how much they cost) you could try for a couple of weeks, you'd have it on at Snett where weather forecast is -3 / -4 ºC overnight
 

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Go Go Gadget Mini
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1,625 Posts
I have the B2AAA code on my scan gauge a few times. I checked out this code on the interwebs and found some notes to say that B codes are body related. Dont ask me what that means exactly but thats what i found. Will see if i can find source again, but think it was on NAM.

I didnt investigate further, i took it as possible truth with my wheels catching the arches and maybes the sensor on the rear control arm picked this up?

Edit: found thread, here. http://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../102564-new-mini-codes-what-do-they-mean.html
 

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Werthers
Joined
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6,596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When I have the funds, I will be ordering the following two parts:

4 - Thermostat housing with thermostat 11537534521
5 - Temperature sensor 13627535068



Driving home yesterday after a 40 minute journey split between the first half of 20 mins traffic and the second half on the motorway, the outside air temp was -1 and water temp was 39 degrees, when I switched the car off the fan stayed on for over 3 minutes...
 

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Learning!
Joined
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5,805 Posts
I assume you are talking coolant temps here George??

Mine sat at 98-106ºC throughout a 40 min drive tonight, slow traffic and 50mph - after it was warmed up of course

What should the temps be ?

Edit: Oh and no fan
 

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My car my rules
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370 Posts
The temp sensors do go wrong a lot and as they are easy to replace I would change it
 
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