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2006 cooper S 221bhp
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you make things like ‘just’ taking an engine out and stripping it look so matter of fact!

I’m still psyching myself up to change the brake discs on both my cars and as for doing the coilovers on the diesel is a months mental preparation for me that one
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
haha, the car's done and being tested tomorrow,

just playing catch up with the thread....
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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
well I won't be reusing this particular flywheel, some unpleasant cracks there, I'll do so with a few small ones but this is toast, not much play in it actually, but it's dead nonetheless,

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clutch has had it's day, it was pretty heavy,

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gearbox bell housing, some repairers leave them like this,

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initial clean

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and again

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Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Auto part


tbh some of this stuff I'll clean a bit more sometimes, this is night and day though as it is, so is enough

replacement flywheel, you can see some slight cracks in one patch at about 10 o'clock....

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cleaned up ok considering it was like this prior

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,052 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
cleaned again with a Scotch Brite wheel

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timing reference wheel, not something one wants to forget....

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flywheel on

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clutch on (OEM)

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Tire Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Tread


the removed water pump is a late type with metal casing, the thermostat housing also a later type with brown sensor, I suspect both are aftermarket, the cross over plastic pipe is also recent as it still has the part label on it, this is OEM, it has no signs of cracking at the block entry behind the seal so will be reused, but the water pump whilst it feels ok and the plastic impeller is alright, has slight signs of leakage, so will be swapped for a good early type I have,

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so new OEM seal on a good earlier style pump, actually the one off the 27k motor from the Silver R56S recently sold which is being rebuilt forged, it'll just get a new OEM pump instead,

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then gearbox on, and it's time to go in the car....

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I am in awe of your endeavors.

I was pleased to be able to fit an alternator, rocker cover gasket and supercharger service/pulley to mine.
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
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normally by this point these are assembled internally and timed up as well as a bit more built up before being hung, but for space reasons it suited me this time to leave the cams out and even the crank bolt isn't torqued, the rocker cover just acting as a dust cover right now, no inlet manifold on or exhaust. Basically I needed stuff off the other one and didn't have room for both out of the car at this moment in time, so plenty to do....

exhaust manifold and turbo on....

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those auxiliary pump coolant hoses are too badly oil contaminated and actually starting to delaminate so unfortunately need renewal or it's a failure waiting to occur.... I'll revisit these soon

recent cross over pipe previously mentioned, pre connected to housing in this instance, just makes it easier to get the clip in place, note to those doing these, grease the seals and the mating surfaces, makes it so much easier to install especially the block end,

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vacuum reservoir on, vac hose section (coupler) changed due to oil contamination allowing it to continually drop off, knock sensor on, crank sensor connected, shafts in, bottom mount on, bracket on starter I've put on upside down, soon to be swapped, angle for tank vent and fuel pipes is wrong way round.

fuel rail and injectors back on, starter connected.

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thermostat housing and cross over on, gear cables on, slave cylinder on.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Blue Automotive design Automotive exterior


lifters in, rockers on, cams in, Vanos and top sprocket on, timing tools holding (OEM), crank still locked, not timed, not tight,

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I am in awe of your endeavors.

I was pleased to be able to fit an alternator, rocker cover gasket and supercharger service/pulley to mine.
I'm sure you took pride in it if the rest of your car might be an example
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
timed, unlocked, rotated about ten times, rechecked, slightly adjusted, repeated, rechecked, and spot on, tools have maximum acceptable clearances for inlet and exhaust cams, this is inlet

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note not bolted down, it's only a reference check against the other tool, and the exhaust cam reference is against the head, no gap at all there, inlet fyi has a more generous tolerance, still not a lot,

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new OEM turbo oil feed pipe, existing was showing leak trace at it's underside,

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ignore the oil around the filter housing/cooler which also has new OEM seals, it's run down from the manifold studs that had been sprayed as well as run out from the turbo oil return heat shielding that was oil soaked as was much of the rest originally,

new OEM auxiliary pump coolant hoses previously mentioned....

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compressor on, friction wheel, alternator and belt with tensioner, note earlier pic showed replacement pump drive wheel fitted just prior to motor mounting, dipstick tube in,

Motor vehicle Hood Blue Automotive tire Automotive exterior


rear shield and turbo support bracket on, catalyst back on, turbo coolant lines on,

Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Hood Automotive exterior


inlet manifold on, I managed to miss connecting the purge valve up, mounted beneath the manifold, later to put a fault in, easily done....

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front and top cat/turbo heat shields on, bit more wiring routed, rocker cover recleaned, new gaskets and now installed

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still a few patches of oil gloop to clean here, around the lambda sensor wiring and connectors especially downstream, also a couple of patches on the front of the box in view, not for long....
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
also vacuum pump and HPFP on

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intake elbow on, noise maker, airbox and intake pipe on with breather pipe,

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ECU carrier, ECU, fuse box, servo vac pipe and intake tube on....
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gear linkages on box also lubricated and checked.

lambda wiring and connectors cleaned off a bit more....

Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Car Hood
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ready for the front panel assembly I think....

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existing battery removed, still showing the green tell tale but with old exhausted fault and battery symbol on dash after charging twice it's obviously weak, also it's not an AGM which it should be

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
you'll have noticed the coils are still off, this is because the plugs will come out for pre start cranking, 'always' with plugs out

new battery charged and installed, tbh I never piss about with cheap shite batteries, if there's a decent brand option that shows a couple of levels available I just put the better one in, note the amp difference 640 vs 760

Bumper Automotive exterior Gadget Font Electric blue


gear oil in, engine oil in (mineral), front panel on which I didn't take a pic of at that stage

car cranked four times to starter cut, leaving a breather for starter cooling, plugs refitted, coolant in

and it lives....

you'll hear it start to hunt at 0:40 which clears, and again from 3:30 to the end, between low or not fully bled coolant, sticking Vanos solenoid, and it being extremely low on fuel as well as being up in the air at the front I'm not really concerned, this clip is just about an initial start and the absence of mechanical noise right now, there is another clip to follow.

Mini Clubman Cooper S R55 initial start after engine rebuild - YouTube

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gave it a vac out, haven't cleaned anything otherwise, it isn't a smokers car or a dog carrier, a bit of a clean should tidy it up more, I'm not a valet person so won't be getting that involved in it, value is in the above not how I can make patterns in the carpets and make it smell of cherries etc. It'll get nicer over time no doubt.

the car is in classifieds on here at £5.5k, I didn't continue this work info in that ad but will link the ad to here,

if people can't see value in paying this amount for this particular car vs £4-4.5k perhaps for one inevitably wanting similar work doing then good luck to them😂 Try and get the same done for the difference I guess, or DIY.
 
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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Clip 2.


a happy motor.

Software updates and recoding carried out for the DME and Kombi,

New front brake pads and sensor fitted, different front discs I'd had which were recent but upgraded and sat about, so cleaned up and used those,

New rear brake pads and sensor, and new discs fitted, there was no area at the back of the disc in use on one and very little on the other plus 50% of the front face lost to rot if not more,

NSF wheel taken to be checked for pressure loss, resealed and new valve fitted,

Washers topped up, coolant rechecked.

MOT booked tomorrow 4pm. I take them 35 miles away, so by then any crap in the exhaust will be burnt away and certainly from the cat. The brakes will get time to bed in.

Aware the rear exhaust heat shield/s are loose/adrift, might look at that before the test, or leave it for an advise, weather dependent. Other than that there're some clips and bits for the front arch liners to refit/renew, and the NSR floor jacking block was missing so that was replaced, pet hate those being left off.

Gave all the wheels a clean front and back while off for brakes, have caps to do hence left off for now, I do have locking bolts but removed them, can go with car in lieu of standard.

I'll possibly look at wheel refurb, but unsure if the place I use will get involved doing the caps, if not I'll leave them as is. I might fit my Web Design R98's just to see how they look sometime.

That's it for now ;O)

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
MOT passed, no advisories, CO% 0.01, HC's 15,
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
I got an oil light on this when warm at idle unfortunately, came on a couple of times intermittently, then on the way back from MOT it did it more coming to a halt, only with a/c off but obviously isn't right, so as I'd felt the pump was slightly noisier than normal anyway, instead of checking pressure or swapping switches as some might, I pulled the sump off and replaced the pump I'd used, with the original from this car, problem appears to be solved, pump noise level reduced (bit like a conventional PAS pump type sound on low fluid). I opened the displaced pump, not in a particularly bad state but the housing is a bit scored up in the main barrel which is slightly mirrored on the rotor tips, so I guess just down to this as the body expands with heat perhaps changing clearances? It was a minor thing that turning the a/c on was enough to stop but needed action, just one of those things, pump I had used was off a donor motor I'd sourced some time ago, not one I'd actually run in anything. Done now.

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I'll run it around during the week to put some miles on then will change the oil again soon enough.

I also have a reduced power EML intermittently, this is showing boost pressure sensor,

There is a bypass blow off valve error but that only comes on if the other is driven on,

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I've already swapped the boost pressure sensor and MAP which changed nothing, just wanted to as the old motor was so oily and it was in the inlet manifold and charge pipe so could have affected these, anyway it's still intermittent, it seems to ping the light on transition to overrun, original sensors refitted,

Live info showing inactive here, when stationary and throttle depressed moderately it changes the bypass blow off valve to active right away and with the codes cleared also the charge air pressure control with enough of a throttle push, when the lamp pings though this remains inactive,

Actual charge pressure is a higher than set point at idle making me curious if there's a vac leak perhaps, and as this thing was oil soaked and the vac lines somewhat contaminated by old leaked oil it could be that they're a bit loose, I'd spotted one that just fell off its connection to the control solenoid and swapped that joining piece, also cable tied it but maybe there're others to do the same with,

There'll be others on here quicker to diagnose this than myself perhaps, but I'll have a look tomorrow or during the week, I'll see what the vac is like at the turbo and how the wastegate reacts, and will take off the manifold again and recheck the pipes, cable tie what I think is necessary, and go from there.

I'm not sure this is symptomatic of the diverter valve but can check that if I need to, I have a couple of GFB DV+'s in so can replace with one of those perhaps if it's required,

Computer Font Gadget Line Screenshot


Other than that, wheel centre caps are on, one emblem missing NSR,

Car Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Tire


Gave it another quick wash, I did notice a rough feel to the paint, you know, just that unpolished feel, so will quite likely go over it with a clay cloth and give it a bit of a shine, hardly a priority but it'll make it look even nicer that it does now. I don't think it's seen polish for a while....

Need to order roof rack keys.

A few people have commented on it already anyway so maybe it won't hang around long, who knows....

Niggles.... steering wheel is slightly off to the right, so I'll take for an alignment check. Front fog lamps corroding inside, minor thing which I'd sort if keeping it perhaps. OSR reflector chipped, very minor, again if keeping it I'd do it. Need to lube rear wiper hinges as they felt tight. I'll probably adjust the front washer jets a little higher. Then there's the main speedo cover with the little cracks in it, there's a spare for it I might look at changing.

Other than that, It's tempting to change the roof and rear corner trims to body colour along with mirror caps, or chrome for those, and the upper rear corner trims in gloss black which will suit the sun protection glass I think, again, stuff that goes with keeping it a while, just thinking out loud.

Also I think the R112's I had refurbished would look pretty good on it with its silver bits, or the black ones from the coupe if it were body coloured. Might try a set for fun.

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Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle


I'm also tempted to put a map on the R55, slippery slope that 😂

I might find another gear knob for it as the current one's a bit worn, minor thing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
so, I decided to go over this with a clay cloth, sounded horrible, loads of soapy water and it soon changed to super smooth. I don't have fancy polishing stuff like DA machines so it's old school cloths and it got a bit of a polish like that, covered in tar as well, so sat there for ages getting that off at least on the right side for now, it looks better and paint certainly feels nicer, it'll get polished more later....

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I took a look at the reduced power warning, it's like an 'are we there yet' light 😂 ping.... ping.... ping.... ping.... every 30 seconds or so at random, quite irritating, sometimes putting the EML on,

The wastegate can be seen fluctuating at idle, I need to compare this with that of the R58 really, aware that's a JCW but idle characteristics shouldn't differ, it's like it's being actuated and let go suddenly, and it's more than just chatter of the penny valve, it's the control rod so is vac side. That said, vac was really quite weak. I took off the manifold and vac tested all the lines chasing leaks at each connection and adding cable ties to pretty much all of them until they all showed vac sooner which held, with the gate taking about twelve inches to shut and remain so. I even tied the connections at the turbo and vac pump. Refitted the manifold and behaviour of the wastegate is the same, light still on, same code 00289D.... oh well, still making stuff better as we go....

Live info all looks the same, the higher pressure fluctuates like it's reacting to the erratic motion of the gate. If I activate the wastegate manually it closes and stays closed so there is no diaphragm fault or turbo problem due to the gate etc. I took off the diverter/blow off valve, it's all good, diaphragm is sound, spring works, compared with another and even substituted it, all exactly the same, activated it manually and it responds active/inactive as instructed.

Curious if the vac solenoid can play a part in this, but if it were faulty, when manually activating the wastegate valve it probably wouldn't remain as instructed, so I might substitute it to rule that out.

The puzzle is that in the long list of legacy faults when the car arrived, these codes weren't there, so it's what's made me look at vac leaks perhaps due to the pipes being off and on etc. Now those are testing ok I'll have to keep looking obviously. I'll reset adaptions again as it has been run with poor vac and who knows how that might change things. I'll swap the solenoid, and back again if no different, I don't leave a trail of random new parts as it doesn't help identify specifically which has changed anything imo.

After putting it together I got bored of that issue and moved to the inside, with a view to replacing the heavily cracked up speedo cover, so lots of little screws and bits of fascia to remove for access,

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someone has been in here before as there're a couple of the smaller screws missing, three actually, so on assembly I borrowed from other locations to favour refitting them in the more important and concealed areas making it easy to replace the missing ones when I order some, note that they will be OEM as always, no random shit on any of my cars if I can help it, I see far too much of that.

keys ordered for roof bars.

that's all for now....

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