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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First the battery needed to go on charge, it'll possibly be renewed as I think it might be weak

Not enough in it to scan the car, although it did start off another battery to drive where it is, with quite a misfire....

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Today I scanned it, loads of stored faults, most probably to do with under voltage but also other legacy faults which all needed clearing so I could see what mattered,

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I saved the report and cleared the lot.... just the permanent faults returned, no big deal, actually the battery exhausted fault will also explain the coolant temp plausibility fault recorded above, and the fan was running on low speed all the time, as soon as the battery had been charged and the faults cleared the fan stopped and remained off, with no further code for it,

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The EML remained off at idle, but the car misfire still apparent, if the rpm was raised to 2-2.5 the EML returned so scanned it again....

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Swapped coils on 2 and 4 with a couple of another car, no difference, note the battery exhausted fault code now cleared....

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Took spark plugs out, already noted one of the coils was new, found one of the plugs was also.... who changes just one plug? Anyway, I had some Bosch plugs new so installed those, one of the removed plugs had the tip worn away. Re-scanned again, car more stable but codes unchanged....

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Reset adaptions, re-cleared codes, re-scanned.... and this is what we're left with, and no EML, even if revved to 2-2.5 again....

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Looked at actual values, injection, coolant temp, knock, misfire count, only issue is in misfire count, I did record the values and will post if possible but I suspect it's not,

So essentially we're left with cylinder 2. I took off the oil filler cap with it running and it's still pulling vacuum so is not a holed piston, no smoke either, the garage that had the car suspected it had a failed head gasket which it doesn't, there is slight emulsification under the cap but it's only on there and the plastics, bit in the PCV and breather, some on the underside of the rocker cover, and is reasonable for low use, it also sat at the garage for two months, the result of all the above is that my own opinion without comp or leak testing is that it's likely burnt a valve on two, I can hear the compression drop on cranking, no need to do more, the head needs to come off....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sean, what scanner do you use?
this is an Autel Maxisys Elite, few years old now but does quite a bit, all coding and programming, so all software updates especially on all BMW and Mercedes Benz as well as some other stuff (for BMW I don't need to access the separate cost BMW OSS), including ethernet programming on F and G chassis etc. It does retrofit stuff so will recode for Sport Brake kits or JCW tuning kits on R56, only annoyance for me is it won't permanently save an increased idle on gen 1 Mini but will gen 2 and an Autologic terminal will (much more money). Works with OBD1 and 2 so has a load of adapters, I added a couple for BMW/Benz older models, it works on all makes including Tesla and a load of stuff most of use haven't heard of I'm sure. Doesn't slot in so well to Peugeot OBD2 which for some mad reason has a step in it, at least it does on an RCZ. It has additional Autel endoscope, and Autel multi channel 'scope' like Peco which are both a USB connect utilising the screen or laptop. It has live data display and recording, repair assist sometimes, forum not that I've ever used it, regular software updates if in licence, it's wireless and I can do software updates within range of home router on the drive or via my mobile tether or run diag on a car sat in the drive while stood in the garage, or run a brake bleed sequence from under the car. Licence renewal is about 1.4k annually, and on top of the kit @ some 4k+ at the time, the new version has built in scope and is pushing 7k,

might sell it on soon actually and update it as we do,

brilliant tool, just expensive, it has a different operating system to the others in the range like the 908 Pro, much faster, used it to do all the software updates on my Countryman, will do on the R55 and R58 JCW, way beyond me tbh because I'm not a diagnostic tech although I need this level kit so I can get places others can't, some of the info it pulls out of other cars is just great, had it on my mates C4S, Supercharged XJ, ML350, M5, the Mini is a drop in the ocean ;O) It will also work with current lane departure tech, whether diagnosis or calibration but I'd need the calibration rig to use that side. No space here for that.

Looks like the R55 also needs some service bits....

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An example with this diag is that I can also turn on the above exhaust emission inspection, or MOT reminder to prompt in the CBS menu, I do for the MOT if turned off but not usually the emissions, part of the same test,

I might also use it to halve or even quarter the CBS service reminders via programming, so the car can ask for an oil change at 9k or 4.5 etc.

I'm sure there are better kits out there, or better operators😂, for me though this is very good. Really I should advertise the updates, there are garages charging 80-90 for coding changes or that and a lot more for software updating.
 

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Looks good, I asked because I tried one of their more lowly (£300) units, but it blew fuses in the OBD power when used, so I didn't get very far with it.

Coding is something you REALLY should do as a service as there aren't that many truly competent places (IMPE) as 2 I have been to have screwed up more than they fixed & I still have issues.

Sadly I am the other side of the country to you, or I would be paying you a visit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
did a bit to this today,

took the cams out for a look at the journals, washed the cams, rockers and lifters, then took the head off....

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as suspected, an exhaust valve on number two blown through....

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exhaust side of turbo looks like it survived, pics will follow of that, blades have some flash marking looking at it briefly but didn't appear distorted or eroded, will look better later,

timing chain guides are breaking up, the top guide only has a tiny piece off it's underside but the main cartridge is in bits, a few significant pieces missing completely so we all know where those are don't we....

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and over time as this stuff gets mulched up it can end up in the Vanos solenoid gauze screens....

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
that's nothing, just a stage of cleaning isn't it, nothing is dropped or dragged etc,

cylinders all look nice on this, no scoring at all,

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These pistons always remind me of Night at the Museum 😂

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Me no dum dum ;O)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
cooling galleries are a bit scabby, yet another car with a neglected system,
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Pump drive about to delaminate

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Inlet ports looking a bit coked, will get better pics later

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This is the rocker cover underside, no way this constitutes a head gasket symptom imo, some cars are worse than this running well

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and of course the cam timing was out as so many are

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
quite surprised to see the top guide this intact really

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chain tensioner took no effort to release at all so probably wasn't far off backing out

timing tools are OEM (accurate)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It'll remain stock for now with a view to it being sold, it is in classifieds already,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so, I have a spare motors in bits for these now anyway, one is being built forged which will probably go in my Coupe JCW as a temporary unit while I rebuilt its original perhaps, another has just been re-bored and has standard aftermarket pistons, there are spare heads for both already stripped and cleaned, decoked completely and have new seals, one has new exhaust valves and guides which will go with the forged block, the other just lapped original valves for the stock motor, I have another block too which is in for re-bore and was going to be forged also, but I might change that to stock, there is a spare crank for it which needs a grind and I have another spare head or two, so now have three pretty much, need an oil pump and a couple of rocker covers,

my thoughts at the moment are that seeing as those motors are to be put together anyway and one was meant to be a spare for sale or for use as a temp engine, I'm inclined to just install a stock one to the Clubman to get it on the road sooner,

sure I could just fit a head to the current block and have it running right away, or I could just hone it and fit new rings I have here already, although with the miles it has, age, oil varnish, my desire to change the clutch which feels a bit heavy, the coolant deposits, sump having to come off anyway to retrieve debris, the motor will be out and on it's way to coming apart, I'm inclined towards also swapping the bearings, which will soon turn into cleaning up the motor completely which is kind of my thing, so if doing that I'll do it more accurately and measure the bores, if out of round which honing won't address it'll just get re-bored, and all that takes time, so might as well fit one I have that just needs assembly.... I'll also see if the original head's guides need changing and get those done as well if required, then if I still have the car when it's done it could go back in if I feel like swapping it again, it sounds like a hassle but once I've had the fronts off them the next time is always easier and with enough spares to be able to almost fully build them up they become quite a modular swap, not the end of the world, it probably wouldn't happen though. Maybe as a cost option if someone want's the original engine number but most don't care, I would but others wouldn't be fussed.

so here goes....

one spare block.... this was one that I had relined on cylinder one, honed to stock size and actually went into the silver car recently sold, but a temperamental aftermarket thermostat housing caused an overheat more than once which affected the head sealing which in turn caused air lock and ultimately led to some cylinder scoring, so it got swapped for another newly built motor and this one got re-bored and aftermarket standard type over size pistons, this has been cleaned, just needs a bit more as after initial cleaning they can start to form rust as one watches, so here you can see a slight orange hue forming, this will get cleaned off and oiled and a few more bits cleaned

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rods from a donor, the old pistons pictured clipped by exhaust valves but are still useable in something or will be sold on

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rods cleaned, still with old shells in at the moment, new pistons in view

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the crank on the left will be used, these'll all get cleaned a bit more, centre is for the forged lump, right is a customer car here

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bores a bit cleaner

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before pistons go anywhere near it, the bolts top and bottom are all run through to their stops, threads rinsed and lightly oiled until the feel is the same and the stops are reached the same way, then rinsed, dried, run again so they are all the same, If this is done after the pistons are in, anything coming up the threads can get down the piston sides so it gets done prior, all time consuming stuff, not necessary to many, that's up to them,

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below had already been cleaned a bit more

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King bearings for mains and ends plus thrust will go in it

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pistons on, old shells out shows the junk beneath, also in the fracture joints but those had already been cleaned up some,

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
rod journals cleaner

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shells in

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pistons in

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and after the oil jets the crank is in

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more clutches turned up, one for this, one for the Coupe JCW (same clutch different flywheel), one for the customer car and another pending if it doesn't go the aftermarket route

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bearing ladder on, or bedplate as BMW call them

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then oil baffle and pump, chains in soak, head for this in the background

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pretty much how I left it....

the current motor is still in the car, just needs shafts and oils out, starter disconnect, AC pressure pipe bracket off, compressor, gear cables off, zero gear sensor disconnect, and I'll probably disconnect the crank sensor just to get wiring out of the way, and get the cross over pipe off, these usually break but will see,

I'll build this motor up as much as I need just to be able to hang it before actually getting the other one out,

once out I'll clean the engine bay area, remove the gearbox and clean the bell housing, swap some other bits and will possibly put the exhaust manifold on once it's in, some I do before, others after.

plenty to do....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
the pump chain went on with its cover

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sump on

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blind plugs renewed

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rear main oil seal in

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the guide comes with the seals, the tool is OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
main chain cartridge in

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front main seal in

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the last two pics show the dust lip of the seal slightly folded, since pulled out

the guides fyi that come with these front seals are designed to suit manufacturer tools used to put them in, Reinz seals tend to come with guides for Peugeot tools, Elring tend to come for OEM tools, obviously as do OEM seals,

note the set back of the seal in the block determined by the correct tools,

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time to get it off the bench, they get a bit heavy now....

head on next....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
head on....

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the original motor needs to come out now so I can swap stuff and clean the bay a bit,

I had actually cleaned off at least some of the oil slick from the front of it first,

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then out....

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then more bits off it

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