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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, going to be replacing the clutch and flywheel on my facelift r53s , I plan on replacing the DMF with a single mass setup maybe the Valeo kit also the Luk kit seems popular but doesn’t seem to be available with SM flywheel? Is there a flywheel sold separately I could use to suit the luk clutch assembly.
 

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GTT aluminium flywheel

the single best option there is for the R53 imo.

not the cheapest at a little over £600 but you'll never need another one I'm sure, these will accept any OEM style clutch cover but must use a sprung disc such as the Helix Organic option. I'd recommend the LUK or OEM original, the release bearing in the OEM kit is SKF, not so in LUK fwiw.

GTT might now refuse to sell these separately saying they're unavailable on their own which is a lie, Lohen do sell them separately I know.

I definitely wouldn't consider a slightly cheaper option of a TTV which has no renewable parts and will damage it's ring gear over time as the tooth profile isn't ideally matched to that of the starter, same with another option that does have renewable consumables. Not worth the initial saving.

I can also supply CG Motorsport clutches and flywheels which are a bit more specialist as they manufacture the clutches themselves including twin plate set ups

Valeo SMF kit has significantly less friction lining, has no renewable parts on the SMF, and only takes a Valeo clutch, and is NOT a performance item, it might work for some but is not an upgrade!

Just my2p ;O)
 

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there won't be to most users in their experience, but there will be if you took it out and looked at it ;O)
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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TBH given their service life going OEM with OEM DMF probably isn't a bad way to go, not exactly cheap but decent.

Like most cars clutches don't last if they aren't treated with any mechanical sympathy, be the same for any clutch OEM or aftermarket.

SMF conversion does away with the problem of failing DMFs of course, but introduces more driveline interference and affects refinement. Swings and roundabouts.

If mine goes I'll just be going OEM or OEM equivalent (LUK) with DMF if it's needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
TBH given their service life going OEM with OEM DMF probably isn't a bad way to go, not exactly cheap but decent.

Like most cars clutches don't last if they aren't treated with any mechanical sympathy, be the same for any clutch OEM or aftermarket.

SMF conversion does away with the problem of failing DMFs of course, but introduces more driveline interference and affects refinement. Swings and roundabouts.

If mine goes I'll just be going OEM or OEM equivalent (LUK) with DMF if it's needed.
TBF the cars on 100k and won’t be doing many miles in the rest of my ownership, the problem is the DMF rattle at startup maybe the LUK with DMF might be worth considering.
 

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SMF conversions might well give a bit more of a gear rattle, often present anyway though, slight noise otherwise on overrun on occasion which could be spec dependant and still not exactly intrusive, also some cars can gain slight clutch judder pulling away on light throttle or manoeuvring etc, despite being on sprung discs. That's it.

Fitting one isn't just about getting away from DMF vulnerability though.

what they do for performance makes the right one a no brainer if looking for that imo, they pretty much halve the weight the crank is trying to spin in it's connection to the box, some might gain idle speed, a custom mapped car I fitted one to gained 100rpm for example just from the weight saving alone, that on its own says a lot for the positive affect of such a weight loss in the rotating assembly.

these are one of those things you need to run to 'get' what a difference they make, the only downside if it could ever be considered such is they drop some torque retention in allowing the crank speed to drop faster having less mass, the flip side is shift quality improves somewhat and engine acceleration significantly as already said ;O)
 
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