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Whilst the recommendation was on 100k miles for the supercharger service I would expect that most cars are now of an age where this should be a check that gets carried out ASAP if there is no proof it has been done already no matter the mileage. Mine had done 92k (55 plate) seals around the dipstick, oil switch and back of the water pump (the one into the block) were all shot. Also, whilst there was oil in both ends of my charger one was incredibly low and water pump looked like the original. Neither of these things are ones that you want to fail (water pump or charger becuase of low oil) As suspect the damage caused and subsequent costs starts to make it diffcult to justify the car.

Also whilst it looks relatively involved all of the items are relatively simple to remove. I think the biggest issue I had was with the bolts that hold the intercooler supports to the manifold (cant remember why you need to remove these but pretty sure you do) and though you have to drain the coolant out again you can save it and just put it back as long as its still clean and you have a decent (clean) recepticle to catch and store it.

As above think its a days worth of work by the time you have carried out all of the items and then put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I’ll check the paperwork that I’ve got to see if it was done when the KAVS pulley was fitted. It doesn’t seem to have been hugely cared for, as I’ve done a reasonable bit already to get it right since we got it late last year
 

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I’ll check the paperwork that I’ve got to see if it was done when the KAVS pulley was fitted. It doesn’t seem to have been hugely cared for, as I’ve done a reasonable bit already to get it right since we got it late last year
Most havent had it done as its £800 to £1000 worth of work (mostly labour) if you take it somewhere to have it done. Which considering most cars are worth £1500 to £2000 means most have left this essential work out. Its a real issue with cheap cars (previous owners keeping up with regular maintenance - ie: more than an oil change!) I think I have just about replaced every perishable/maintenance item on mine either due to lack of maintenance or age.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Having rewatched WD on the MC40 just now, it seemed like taking go the alternator and dipstick Pitt the way were part of it, but no mention of fuel rails. Also, I don’t have a long arm tool to remove the serpentine belt. It looks like I need a read of my Haynes manual to see what’s actually needed to do the job this summer
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Having rewatched WD on the MC40 just now, it seemed like taking off the alternator and dipstick were part of it, but no mention of fuel rails. Also, I don’t have a long arm tool to remove the serpentine belt. It looks like I need a read of my Haynes manual to see what’s actually needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Bit random, but does anyone know if I picked up some leather heated seats for the prefacelift 2004 we have, if they’ll have the wiring? The wife’s are currently just half leather half cloth
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Road surface Wood Grass Track Groundcover


Knocked up my own little spray frame so I can get the edges of the new headlight trims. The xenon lamps look good now too, so should be a huge difference for night and early morning driving as the wife’s shifts change
 

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2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
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Can I ask what you are spraying them with.
I have been thinking about a bit of de-chroming but dont like the idea of stick on bits that cost the earth.
I would rather spray over the chrome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I’ve used a plastic etch primer, because although the frames are metal, they’re covered in plastic chrome.
I gave them a good key with a red scotch brite pad before priming and now just gone with gloss black aerosol.
Initially a dust coat and then several coats before wet flatting and now ready for another 2 coats tmrw before lacquering.

I did the same on the original headlights but without primer and they’ve picked up a couple of small chips over the winter so hoping the primer will help.
But even with that, the trims have stayed shiny black and I’m much happier with this than the £60 for stick on covers
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Insect Arthropod Sleeve Beetle Red

Mouth Azure Paint Textile Sleeve

Outerwear Textile Sleeve Hood Wood

Outerwear Shoe Luggage and bags Bag Sleeve


Horns cleaned, prepped and painted. Picked up the paint online, mixed to order with a can of lacquer for £16. Just 2 coats seems sufficient on top of 3 etch primer coats, so just the lacquer to add. Plenty left for some minor touch ins ever needed or any future jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
And that’s the headlamps in, with the old nightbreaker bulbs fitted as main beam. Should be a huge all round difference! Standard, FL lamps with standard and then FL with nightbreakers. Can see the glow from the

Car Vehicle Land vehicle Vehicle registration plate Grille



Car Vehicle Vehicle registration plate Grille Automotive lighting



Vehicle Vehicle registration plate Car Grille Automotive lighting
 

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Mini Cooper S R53 2004
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138 Posts
Having rewatched WD on the MC40 just now, it seemed like taking off the alternator and dipstick were part of it, but no mention of fuel rails. Also, I don’t have a long arm tool to remove the serpentine belt. It looks like I need a read of my Haynes manual to see what’s actually needed
Belt tools are cheap on eBay.
 

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2005 R53
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I bought one from amazon, which somewhat surprisingly works a lot better than the more expensive one I bought elsewhere. It's on there as 'Mekanik Serpentine Belt Tool Compatible with Mini Cooper'.

The only thing really is to make sure it's one with the small 1/2 circle bit at the bend. There are some that don't have it and I bought one initially, but imo they are a danger to use - it kept slipping off of where it pivots and when it happens and you've pushed against the spring of the tensioner, it's highly likely you'll do yourself an injury!
 
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