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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Old shite wheels off, shiny new ones on.
However, as ever, a kick in the balls whilst doing it. After taking the car to Kwikfit several weeks back to have the wheels balanced, they鈥檝e done the bolts up so tight, ones sheared off today.

I鈥檓 going to get a new set and locking nuts anyway, but any starting tips to remove the sheared thread? Tap and die?
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then the sheared bolt. Longest pipe ever to get the others off

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
And having had the old grille nicked!! New one on today and a dab of bonding to stop it鈥檚 removal

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Nice one. Your car looks much better with the new wheels. Black wheels look good on a Leccy blue R53 (even better with a black roof!). I'm biased about that though!

I would be tempted to speak to Kwik Fit about their King Kong bolt tightening. Looks like it needs drilling out. If you use a reverse thread drill bit then it may wind it out easily, as it has not been there long and rusted in place. A little heat may help. Plenty of how to videos on YouTube to guide you. At worst you can fit a new wheel hub.
 

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Depends what tools youve got if youre going to do it yourself.
Id simply take the disc off and get a pair of grips on the remaining bolt.
Itll be under no tension now the shoulder/head is off.
Or use a chisel to tap it undone.
Or take it back to Kwikfit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
cheers fellas, sounds like it鈥檚 not going to be quite as bad as I feared when I snapped. I may have cursed a few times when it happened, but if I can reverse drill or just whip the disc off and have a go, that sounds ok 馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
A few little jobs ticked off today, including new check straps as the doors didn鈥檛 stay open. Bit of a clean and greasing the ever notchy gear change. Although, might have pin pointed that down to the lever itself, as noticed some damage to the plastic surround, lubricated that with silicon spray and it appears much smoother today

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
This may or not be a plan, but I鈥檝e just picked up a pair of IC horns which I鈥檓 going to prep, etch prime and paint the car colour..

However, is the removal a long / big job? I鈥檓 ok with spanner鈥檚, but didn鈥檛 want to get involved with something that will fuck the car up for any length of time, as it鈥檚 the daily.
As far as I know, one side is easy, the other is not so much, with fuel line removal??
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Alternatively, if anyone in my area is good to fit them once they鈥檙e painted, I鈥檓 happy with that ;)(y)
 

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I don't think you can do the drivers side one without removing the supercharger, the other one is doable but you do need to take off the air box, throttle body, intercooler etc. and you'll need new gaskets for them too. Might be worth waiting until you want to give the supercharger a service? It's quite involved getting it out - doable at home definitely but takes time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ok thanks.. will prep and paint the horns anyway and see what鈥檚 viable then
Cars just on 90k miles so service would be in a year or so
 

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The supercharger is not part of the regular service schedule, in fact servicing it is something that shares no work with a normal service.
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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a 100k service requirement doesn't exist, it's a wheeler dealer thing they did, nothing more,

even if you did choose to remove the fuel line it's a doddle,

for the horn just take the charger off,
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ah ok, joys of tv鈥

I鈥檒l have a look and see if it鈥檚 something I can do here then
 

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The 100k service (including supercharger) is not an official MINI/BMW requirement, but that doesn't mean that it doesn't need doing. Wheeler Dealers just repeated something that owners clubs have known and suggested all along. They were also preparing a car for sale.

As others have said, it is a separate job to a routine service. It is more akin to long term maintenance. As you remove a lot of parts to get the supercharger off it makes sense to replace some of these items to avoid future dismantling. The cooling system will be drained so you may want to replace the thermostat, water pump and maybe radiator. Various seals, particularly the crank position sensor o ring should be swapped at the same time as it will take an extra two minutes to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thanks, that makes sense.
Having just drained the coolant system for a new heater matrix, I鈥檇 rather not do it immediately again lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Just a case of confidence attacking it, as I鈥檓 ok with brakes and servicing, general things, but just about concerned I put the car off the road with sheared bolts or leaks
Sounds like it鈥檚 defo a summer job anyway
 
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