Hi, is this thread also applicable to R56 engines.
Sorry for this, but it's a 1.4 petrol. It's still a mini and has stripes!
I know, it's the wifes 2009 model and it sounds like a small diesel. Only 15k miles with full BMW service history.

 

They work differently i believe but are more common to fail then ours so i would look into it

 

Hi all,
So I replaced my tensioner a couple of months back but the issue seems to have reoccurred. Essentially I get the clatter on startup most times, if I then stop the engine and restart 7 times out of 10 the noise will go, sometimes it won't but then does after 5 mins of driving or a couple more starts/stops. Sometimes running the starter but turning off before it catches causes the engine to then turn over several times before starting which also seems to avoid the clatter so it seems oil pressure dependant. Very occasionally I get a tick on idle even when warm, most times it's near silent. To me it sounds like a stuck hydraulic lifter, which I don't think the R53 has, so guess it must be the tensioner right? I've enquired about getting the chain replaced but as it's a £500 job I'm not too keen! So my question is does this sound like a tensioner and if so do we think a new one or try the washer fix as mentioned in the previous posts? I have checked and do check the oil every couple of days as it uses/loses a fair bit and it never goes below the half point between Min/Max. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks, Nick.

 

My theory is that these chains amd sprockets are getting worn amd cause the extra slack the tensioner can't handle in its normal range.

I will replace my chain soon and report back if it changes anything.

 

Cool, thanks. I've ordered a new Tensioner so will be changing that to see if it makes any difference before I commit to a Chain change.

 

I changed the chain on a non running R53 a few weeks ago.

The old chain was half a link longer than the new one.

It runs fine now.

Just to add, do a compression test on your car, and also get a fault code reader on, if it has lower than expected compression and a cam sensor fault, there is a good chance your chain needs changed.

It's actually quite easy to change if you're hands on and have the BMW tools...... Just nuts and bolts.


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I got a full kit with new sprockets, chain, guides, and tensioner on ebay for £50ish quid....

Might be worthwhile buying the kit rather than just a tensioner at £30

 

Though on that note, does anyone have or know of a good guide to changing the chain? I've done a Google search and all it points to is discussions on the tensioner!

 

Thanks Dobboy, already bought it now though!

 

I've never seen a guide, but there's a few videos on you tube doing HG swaps, which show what you need to do to get to the point of taking chain off.

Before doing anything drastic get a fault code reader on it, and a compression test.

Doubtful but maybe your chain guide rail is worn/fooked.

What oil grade are you using and how many miles old is it?


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Oil is Millers NANODRIVE 5w-30 from Opie Oils, its a couple of thousand miles old, though has been topped up a couple of times. I've put a fault code reader on it and it shows clear.

 

Well there is something not right if you're going through tensioners. Think you should do a compression test and if ok then you'll have proven the chain/sprockets to be healthy.

If the chain proves healthy the only thing it can be is a worn rail.

How many miles is on the car and does the service history show any HG changes, or chain changes etc?

You'll get a compression tester off eBay for £10 or there abouts.

Did you go through tensioners pre oil change?


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I thought I would share this with everyone as when I was looking to fix my timing chain tensioner I couldn't find any photos or solid guide on how to fix the "Death Rattle" AKA the timing chain tensioner failing.

I finally decided to fix the problem myself instead of paying them twats aka BMW over £500 to do the work on my car which I could not justify, let alone the expensive price to fix it I just don't trust them touching my car. The overall cost to fix the timing chain tensioner is actually just the part which is best brought from your local BMW garage or off the internet. I decided to get mine from BMW.

The part number is 11 31 7 510 801 and cost me around £30 (think it was £31.80 or something in that region)

Anywhoo rant over...

To decipher whether you have the problem of the timing chain tensioner failing it will sounds basically like a tractor on start up and tick over and as you rev above 2k the sound will disappear although I strongly recommend that you do not drive or rev the car whatsoever as the underlying problem could be far worse. There are a few videos on you tube that give you an idea of what the sound is like.

After reading a few threads I got an idea of what tolls I would need, however I think I have found a simple very fast basic way and Il add photos as well.

The main essential tools that you will need are:

3/8 " 19mm Socket
3/8 " ratchet
A bucket/bowel

Guide:

Firsts things first you will need to jack up the car to take off the drivers side wheel (offside front) - I recommend putting an axle stand under the sub frame or something there just in case the jack fails - I very much doubt it will but its still best to be safe than sorry!

Once removing the wheel you should get a good view of the back of the engine.

When I fixed mine I read a guide that advised you to take off the wheel liner however you don't really have to do this it might just give you more room to manoeuvre however I found it a bit of a waste of time.

Once you have the wheel (and the wheel liner off if you want to take it off) you will have to locate the bolt.



The photo above is brief but gives you an indication of where your have to start looking.

The bolt that you are looking for is found on the back of the block and can be found opposite the oil housing. See the photo below - the bolt is circled in red!



The red circle depicts where the bolt is - This photo was taken after the timing chain tensioner was replaced!

My advise is to locate the bolt and then place the socket on the bolt. Once the socket is on the bolt attach the ratchet onto the socket. There is very limited room so you will have to jiggle the ratchet about to get it onto the socket - but don't worry it will go on.





Once you have untightented the bolt - "cracked" the bolt - unscrew it with your hand!

Don't worry some oil will come out through the hole and its best to have a bowl or something below the block so oil doesn't go everywhere although it will only be a trickle as you can see in one of the photos!

Once you have taken off the bolt the timing chain tensioner will just be sitting there. All you have to do is pull the timing chain tensioner out and get the new one and if you want rub some oil on the new one to lubricate it - although this is not essential!

Place the new timing chain tensioner in the hole (the metal part goes in first and the plastic part will touch the bolt) and put the bolt back on - screw it up with your fingers and tighten up as much as you can - some say as tight as you would fix a sump plug back on!

Once you have tightened everything back up. Put your key in the ignition and turn the car on and then off immediately (So as soon as it turns over turn it off) - Do this 3 times and then let your engine run for as long as you want to. This is just to get the oil flowing again.

You have now fixed the "Death Rattle" and saved your self well over £500 from BMW - CONGRATULATIONS!!

It really is that easy and does save you a hell a lot of money and is nice to fix your car yourself and not by someone else.

If you have any questions just post below im sure il be able to help or anyone else on the forum will but my step by step process is fairly simple and straight forward. Some other users may say to go from the top of the engine but I found doing this way fast and simple and il be able to fix your car for £450 including parts ahah im joking do it yourselves you lazy B******S.

The time that it will take is around an hour if you haven't done it before but should realistically only take 30 minutes if that!

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

I thought I would share this with everyone as when I was looking to fix my timing chain tensioner I couldn't find any photos or solid guide on how to fix the "Death Rattle" AKA the timing chain tensioner failing.

I finally decided to fix the problem myself instead of paying them twats aka BMW over £500 to do the work on my car which I could not justify, let alone the expensive price to fix it I just don't trust them touching my car. The overall cost to fix the timing chain tensioner is actually just the part which is best brought from your local BMW garage or off the internet. I decided to get mine from BMW.

The part number is 11 31 7 510 801 and cost me around £30 (think it was £31.80 or something in that region)

Anywhoo rant over...

To decipher whether you have the problem of the timing chain tensioner failing it will sounds basically like a tractor on start up and tick over and as you rev above 2k the sound will disappear although I strongly recommend that you do not drive or rev the car whatsoever as the underlying problem could be far worse. There are a few videos on you tube that give you an idea of what the sound is like.

After reading a few threads I got an idea of what tolls I would need, however I think I have found a simple very fast basic way and Il add photos as well.

The main essential tools that you will need are:

3/8 " 19mm Socket
3/8 " ratchet
A bucket/bowel

Guide:

Firsts things first you will need to jack up the car to take off the drivers side wheel (offside front) - I recommend putting an axle stand under the sub frame or something there just in case the jack fails - I very much doubt it will but its still best to be safe than sorry!

Once removing the wheel you should get a good view of the back of the engine.

When I fixed mine I read a guide that advised you to take off the wheel liner however you don't really have to do this it might just give you more room to manoeuvre however I found it a bit of a waste of time.

Once you have the wheel (and the wheel liner off if you want to take it off) you will have to locate the bolt.



The photo above is brief but gives you an indication of where your have to start looking.

The bolt that you are looking for is found on the back of the block and can be found opposite the oil housing. See the photo below - the bolt is circled in red!



The red circle depicts where the bolt is - This photo was taken after the timing chain tensioner was replaced!

My advise is to locate the bolt and then place the socket on the bolt. Once the socket is on the bolt attach the ratchet onto the socket. There is very limited room so you will have to jiggle the ratchet about to get it onto the socket - but don't worry it will go on.





Once you have untightented the bolt - "cracked" the bolt - unscrew it with your hand!

Don't worry some oil will come out through the hole and its best to have a bowl or something below the block so oil doesn't go everywhere although it will only be a trickle as you can see in one of the photos!

Once you have taken off the bolt the timing chain tensioner will just be sitting there. All you have to do is pull the timing chain tensioner out and get the new one and if you want rub some oil on the new one to lubricate it - although this is not essential!

Place the new timing chain tensioner in the hole (the metal part goes in first and the plastic part will touch the bolt) and put the bolt back on - screw it up with your fingers and tighten up as much as you can - some say as tight as you would fix a sump plug back on!

Once you have tightened everything back up. Put your key in the ignition and turn the car on and then off immediately (So as soon as it turns over turn it off) - Do this 3 times and then let your engine run for as long as you want to. This is just to get the oil flowing again.

You have now fixed the "Death Rattle" and saved your self well over £500 from BMW - CONGRATULATIONS!!

It really is that easy and does save you a hell a lot of money and is nice to fix your car yourself and not by someone else.

If you have any questions just post below im sure il be able to help or anyone else on the forum will but my step by step process is fairly simple and straight forward. Some other users may say to go from the top of the engine but I found doing this way fast and simple and il be able to fix your car for £450 including parts ahah im joking do it yourselves you lazy B******S.

The time that it will take is around an hour if you haven't done it before but should realistically only take 30 minutes if that!

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

Is there any possibility of reposting the photos? I would like to replace my tensioner and the photos would help.

Thanks,

Ian

 

Here's a link with one pic of the bolt in question: Diy:quick version or access to chain tensioner R53 - North American Motoring

I've found it easiest and quickest to do from above. You can't see the bolt above, but you can easily reach it and feel your way around. It's probably the only 19mm bolt on the car, so there's really no chance of opening the wrong one.

 

this picture might help show the degree of recess you need to get a socket in (tensioner hole on left) due to the engine casting shape, and you have to think about the bowl of the filter housing which interferes with 'line of sight' of the tensioner nut when using any extension bar, it's best to use a version of wobble drive which will permit the socket to sit flat, there won't be room for an extension longer than 3", the nut will need quite a tug to release and you don't want it burring the drive faces. It might help you as a first timer to remove the right wheel and arch liner, it will help feel the socket is in place, as well as with removal and refit as well as cleaning up the spilt oil.

nut 63nm

 

Looks a mighty fine block that does!

 

😂