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You know what helps the most! The pic of the Wobble Extension partially inserted! Are you serious.... I have the right tool, just not using it right. Wow, I amaze myself with my lack of knowledge sometimes!

So your Snap On is longer than the one I am using. And you come from the top of the engine, does that help leverage wise? Last night I managed a few times to get a good angle and still couldn't budge it from below, and from above the angel seemed to be worse leverage wise.

Thanks

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Yeah I come from above but I think the flexi part of the ratchet allows a nicer angle for more leverage that and the longer handle obviously makes the job easier.

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I'm down to torture myself and try this again tonight! Thanks, will try all from above with the "correct" use of the Wobble Extension

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Good luck man it is doable might just be tight. You wouldn't happen to have a scaffold pipe or a Jack handle to put over the ratchet? Like the guy does in the mod mini videos on YouTube.

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Yep.. check the guides. We do this...... when you mill a head for more compression, you are pulling the Head/cam closer to the crankshaft. This is like having a longer chain. With the longer chain the tensioner is pretty much maxed( or close to it) so we add an extension to the cam 'Plug" this sets the hyd tensioner close to the chain ( deeper into the block) Now the hyd piston has more length and holds the chain tight at higher rpm and at start up. No more rattle. ( or at least for the 50 or so that run my adapted plug.)

Justa thought...

Thumper

How did you manage to add material to the plug? Or did you use another from another car?
 

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I got this rattle, well I hope it is, so today took the tensioner out using two 4" 1/2 drive bars, a short 19mm socket, and a breaker bar (the type with a knuckle). Going in from wheel arch



Can anyone describe how a healthy one and how a creme crackered one differ?

The inner part of my suspected defective one pokes out about 4mm, and can be compressed, however the last time I compressed it it never came back out......and the black plastic part is fairly loose.



TIA



Tia
 

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It should be sticking out maybe 1/4 inch.... Sorry, yank conversion, so yeah, looks bad to me, couldn't hurt either way and the part is cheap, how is it running now?

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I tried two times to change mine because I thought it was the problem, was miss using the Wobble bar, Anyway, couldn't get it done, guy at the shop said it was my flywheel anyway because, so that kinda pissed me off. Worked so hard at fixing it, couldn't get it, and it was somthing else anyway. And it's not as cheap a fix, Freggin flywheel noise driving me crazy

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It should be sticking out maybe 1/4 inch.... Sorry, yank conversion, so yeah, looks bad to me, couldn't hurt either way and the part is cheap, how is it running now?

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Thanks. Is the unit flush when purchased and then expands the 1/4" when the oil pressure pushes it?

I collect the new part on Thursday and will let you know if it solves it.

Just hope it is only this part and isn't a major.


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Is there any particular brand or place to buy these from? Prices range from £20-£50 on ebay...
As above, get a genuine one from Cotswold MINI on here. I paid about £38 delivered a couple of months ago. Not worth saving £18 for a possibly poorer quality one.


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Hey guys,

I'm wondering if your can help me. I purchased a mini a few months back as spares or repairs, suspected head gadget diagnosed by BMW anyhow it turned out to be a broken cam. Cut a long story short I replaced the cam, got the head checked out and skimmed, new pump, stat, timing chain, rails and sprockets. It ran like a dream for a week until on startup one morning it had a little rattle which went away. Then 20 minutes into my journey it came back so I limped it to work and then got it recovered later that day. I have check the chain and rails and all looked good, the tensioner seemed fine but I decided to get it changed under warranty. After replacing the tensioner the rattle was still there so I stripped it all down again. All seems to be fine except for the fact that the non tensioning side of the chain is as slack as a wizards cuff? After messing around with the floating rail and tensioner amazingly it then because fully tensioned. I removed the new tensioner to inspect it and compare it to the old one and although of a slightly different design both has the same amount of travel. I decided to put the old one back in and try it. Again once I applied pressure to the tensioner to release it and apply tension to the rail the non tensioning side was yet again slack until I give everything a little wiggle and as if by magic all was tense again. Now i understand that it works on oil pressure so when fitting/replacing the tensioner it won't work properly until the engine is running and I'm quite happy to rebuild it yet again to try it. It's just that is really like to not have to strip it down for a third time hence why I am here just asking for a little advice on what may be causing the problem. I have seen a modified tensioner mentioned earlier in the thread and was wondering if I may need one? I have had the head skimmed but I don't know weather it may have also been skimmed previously, if it has then could the tensioner be running at its max but not providing optimum tension?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Steve Knipe


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Here the old vs new tensioners, old is on the left and what the chain looks like when slack on the non tensioner side.


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Hi

Quick question:

By just replacing the tensioner bolt how can you be sure the timing chain is in good condition or the right amount of tension has been applied?

I really like the mini but quite fearful of this timing chain tensioner issue.

Is there a better aftermarket fix that will permanently fix the problem that you know of?

Thanks.
 

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Yeah, replace the whole timing chain too. But usually a 10 dollar part will fix the issue. When you replace the tensioner check the oil that comes out, if you don't see bits of plastic and debris in the oil you should be good. If the chain and apparatus is going bad bits will break off into the oil... Then you have to get that crap out!

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