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R53 Mini Cooper S - TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER - How to fix guide

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182K views 85 replies 37 participants last post by  Tedwardo  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I thought I would share this with everyone as when I was looking to fix my timing chain tensioner I couldn't find any photos or solid guide on how to fix the "Death Rattle" AKA the timing chain tensioner failing.

I finally decided to fix the problem myself instead of paying them twats aka BMW over £500 to do the work on my car which I could not justify, let alone the expensive price to fix it I just don't trust them touching my car. The overall cost to fix the timing chain tensioner is actually just the part that is best brought from your local BMW garage or off the internet. I decided to get mine from BMW.

The part number is 11 31 7 510 801 and cost me around £30 (think it was £31.80 or something in that region)

Anywhoo rant over...

To decipher whether you have the problem of the timing chain tensioner failing it will sound basically like a tractor on start-up and tick over and as you rev above 2k the sound will disappear although I strongly recommend that you do not drive or rev the car whatsoever as the underlying problem could be far worse. There are a few videos on you tube that give you an idea of what the sound is like.

After reading a few threads I got an idea of what tools I would need, however I think I have found a simple very fast basic way and Il add photos as well.

The main essential tools that you will need are:

3/8 " 19mm Socket
3/8 " ratchet
A bucket/bowel

Guide:

Firsts things first you will need to jack up the car to take off the driver's side wheel (offside front) - I recommend putting an axle stand under the subframe or something there just in case the jack fails - I very much doubt it will but it's still best to be safe than sorry!

Once removing the wheel you should get a good view of the back of the engine.

When I fixed mine I read a guide that advised you to take off the wheel liner however you don't really have to do this it might just give you more room to maneuver however I found it a bit of a waste of time.

Once you have the wheel (and the wheel liner off if you want to take it off) you will have to locate the bolt.

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The photo above is brief but gives you an indication of where you have to start looking.

The bolt that you are looking for is found on the back of the block and can be found opposite the oil housing. See the photo below - the bolt is circled in red!

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The red circle depicts where the bolt is - This photo was taken after the timing chain tensioner was replaced!

My advice is to locate the bolt and then place the socket on the bolt. Once the socket is on the bolt attach the ratchet to the socket. There is very limited room so you will have to jiggle the ratchet about to get it onto the socket - but don't worry it will go on.

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Once you have untightened the bolt - "cracked" the bolt - unscrew it with your hand!

Don't worry some oil will come out through the hole and it's best to have a bowl or something below the block so the oil doesn't go everywhere although it will only be a trickle as you can see in one of the photos!

Once you have taken off the bolt the timing chain tensioner will just be sitting there. All you have to do is pull the timing chain tensioner out and get the new one and if you want rub some oil on the new one to lubricate it - although this is not essential!

Place the new timing chain tensioner in the hole (the metal part goes in first and the plastic part will touch the bolt) and put the bolt back on - screw it up with your fingers and tighten up as much as you can - some say as tight as you would fix a sump plug back on!

Once you have tightened everything back up. Put your key in the ignition and turn the car on and then off immediately (So as soon as it turns over turn it off) - Do this 3 times and then let your engine run for as long as you want to. This is just to get the oil flowing again.

You have now fixed the "Death Rattle" and saved yourself well over £500 from BMW - CONGRATULATIONS!!

It really is that easy and does save you a hell of a lot of money and is nice to fix your car yourself and not by someone else.

If you have any questions just post below I'm sure il be able to help or anyone else on the forum will but my step-by-step process is fairly simple and straightforward. Some other users may say to go from the top of the engine but I found doing this way fast and simple and you will be able to fix your car for £450 including parts. Ahah I'm joking do it yourselves you lazy B******S.

The time that it will take is around an hour if you haven't done it before but should really only take 30 minutes if that!

Hope this helps.

Cheers.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Tried my 3/4 inch on my 1/8, matched up nicely. Just can't get the leverage to Crack it and can't find an angle on anything to leverage against, to use the jack as a leverage. Such a simple thing it seems. I'm no weakling either, just a novice. Damn I really didn't want to pay someone to do this.

This is what I am using

Image


And I bought what they said was a Wobble bar extension, but this thing does not Wobble, what the hell.
Image


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#34 ·
I tried with a wobble joint and it wouldn't budge, kept slipping off.
I bought a set of wobble extension bars, and a set of wobble sockets (best things ever!).
Joined all the bars together, so it got me out of the wheel well so I could get my jack handle on the end of my ratchet.

Sounds like a faff, it was, but was much easier than trying to do it all in confined space... And it was in fucking tight!
 
#38 ·
I go from the top with my long handled flexi head snap on 3/8 with a short wobble extension and normal socket.

I always put the socket and extension on the bolt first then put my ratchet on.

I think the flexi head is quite useful and makes it slightly easie.

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#39 ·
You have a link for that flexi head? With what Wobble Extension?

One of my issues last night was even if I could get it on there, I couldn't seem to get the leverage to break the bolt free, and I couldn't find anything close to wrench to use as a leaver/breaker bar. Bolt is on there super tight! From the top is this easier?

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#41 ·
You know what helps the most! The pic of the Wobble Extension partially inserted! Are you serious.... I have the right tool, just not using it right. Wow, I amaze myself with my lack of knowledge sometimes!

So your Snap On is longer than the one I am using. And you come from the top of the engine, does that help leverage wise? Last night I managed a few times to get a good angle and still couldn't budge it from below, and from above the angel seemed to be worse leverage wise.

Thanks

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#47 ·
I got this rattle, well I hope it is, so today took the tensioner out using two 4" 1/2 drive bars, a short 19mm socket, and a breaker bar (the type with a knuckle). Going in from wheel arch

Image


Can anyone describe how a healthy one and how a creme crackered one differ?

The inner part of my suspected defective one pokes out about 4mm, and can be compressed, however the last time I compressed it it never came back out......and the black plastic part is fairly loose.

Image


TIA



Tia
 
#49 ·
I tried two times to change mine because I thought it was the problem, was miss using the Wobble bar, Anyway, couldn't get it done, guy at the shop said it was my flywheel anyway because, so that kinda pissed me off. Worked so hard at fixing it, couldn't get it, and it was somthing else anyway. And it's not as cheap a fix, Freggin flywheel noise driving me crazy

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#57 ·
Hey guys,

I'm wondering if your can help me. I purchased a mini a few months back as spares or repairs, suspected head gadget diagnosed by BMW [emoji849] anyhow it turned out to be a broken cam. Cut a long story short I replaced the cam, got the head checked out and skimmed, new pump, stat, timing chain, rails and sprockets. It ran like a dream for a week until on startup one morning it had a little rattle which went away. Then 20 minutes into my journey it came back so I limped it to work and then got it recovered later that day. I have check the chain and rails and all looked good, the tensioner seemed fine but I decided to get it changed under warranty. After replacing the tensioner the rattle was still there so I stripped it all down again. All seems to be fine except for the fact that the non tensioning side of the chain is as slack as a wizards cuff? After messing around with the floating rail and tensioner amazingly it then because fully tensioned. I removed the new tensioner to inspect it and compare it to the old one and although of a slightly different design both has the same amount of travel. I decided to put the old one back in and try it. Again once I applied pressure to the tensioner to release it and apply tension to the rail the non tensioning side was yet again slack until I give everything a little wiggle and as if by magic all was tense again. Now i understand that it works on oil pressure so when fitting/replacing the tensioner it won't work properly until the engine is running and I'm quite happy to rebuild it yet again to try it. It's just that is really like to not have to strip it down for a third time hence why I am here just asking for a little advice on what may be causing the problem. I have seen a modified tensioner mentioned earlier in the thread and was wondering if I may need one? I have had the head skimmed but I don't know weather it may have also been skimmed previously, if it has then could the tensioner be running at its max but not providing optimum tension?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Steve Knipe


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#59 ·
Hi

Quick question:

By just replacing the tensioner bolt how can you be sure the timing chain is in good condition or the right amount of tension has been applied?

I really like the mini but quite fearful of this timing chain tensioner issue.

Is there a better aftermarket fix that will permanently fix the problem that you know of?

Thanks.
 
#60 ·
Yeah, replace the whole timing chain too. But usually a 10 dollar part will fix the issue. When you replace the tensioner check the oil that comes out, if you don't see bits of plastic and debris in the oil you should be good. If the chain and apparatus is going bad bits will break off into the oil... Then you have to get that crap out!

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#63 ·
So after my issue mentioned previously. The chain becoming slack on the non tensioning side and having to get my car recovered home. The issue was resolved by black magic it would seem as I stripped it all down (chain/rails off and tensioner out) for inspection, out t all back together and hey presto it was working. Been driving for a around 3 week with a slight chain rattle on start up twice until today where it is now rattling constantly. I had the head skimmed and I have a suspicion that may have been skimmed before so I am not going to look at spacing the tension out with a large washer. Fingers crossed [emoji85]


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#65 ·
I still have this issue, i have a full branded kit read to fit incase i get any problems (Trying to put off it as dont fancy removing the crank sprocket).
Iv just used a washer with the same outer diameter as the tensioner plastic, it was only 3mm thick i think an M8 and has done the job. You said before though that you had reused your old tensioner right?, Well in that case its likely that the tensioner is getting stuck. Even when i did this with a new tensioner it failed 3 months down the line, took it out and compressed/released it a few times whilst cleaning it down with wd40 on a rag. Been fine ever since lol so they can be iffy even on oem parts.

Its a good idea to deploy the tensioner before running up oil pressure, so just rock the car back and forth whilst in gear a few times and thatl do