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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So when I was getting some work done at 1320 I had them do a dyno run on my JCW and was surprised to find it only made around 160whp which I'm guessing is about 185hp at the crank, way down on the quoted 200-210 for the JCW kit. However they told me 99.9% of JCW's never make the quoted factory power anyway.

So now I've got used to the car I'm thinking it needs a bit more oomph. nothing too major but I think I'd want over 200hp. After some discussions with 1320 they recommended a smaller pulley, intercooler and remap, the standard stuff but it's a really clean car so I'm not sure if I want to start swapping out OEM bits for aftermarket which really only leaves the remap and possibly the pulley as you can't really see that bit.

My question is therefore would just a pulley and remap get me to where I want to go. I know the intercooler is more for safety but is the standard IC good enough to take the extra power safely?

Alternatively what else could I look at to make a bit more power without swapping out obvious OEM bits?
 

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I run a 17% on mine without IC or map and don't have any issues. In fact it transformed the car (mind you, the crank pulley was also shot beforehand which didn't help).

I've seen many people say too long at high revs with 17% will bring up a fault code / EML but hasn't happened to me yet. You could play it safe(r) and go for a 15%, assuming you already have the standard JCW 11% pulley fitted anyway. That would probably get you close to your target.
 

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I'd double-check you've definitely got an 11% pulley, and if you do I'd double-check if there's any other reason for the lower power (intake pressure loss through leaks, weak compression on one or more cylinders, etc.).

I'm running a 15% with uprated cam and a tune, running 229bhp. I still have the standard intercooler but really, other than on track, it's fine for the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've got the certificate and invoice to prove all the JCW bits were fitted. Also 1320 reckons it's about right for a JCW, maybe 5-6hp down, they usually dyno at around 165 apparently so don't think there are any major issues. I had the clutch and quite a few other maintenance bits done so I think they'd have spotted if something else was amiss. 15% pulley and remap may be the way to go and just get them to double check compression and leaks I guess.

I do like the idea of a bigger IC to keep temps down but just think the JCW's are getting rare and originality will probably be sought after in a few years. Perhaps I can just keep the original IC and swap it back if I come to sell.
 

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If you change any parts keep the originals as the uprated parts are worth more to sell on their own later should you sell the car.
 

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My car made 145hp at the flywheel, bog standard, But once I had a -15% Pulley, GP intercooler, Dave F and Miltek Cat Back, It made 192.6 Flywheel hp (@220bhp), 165 Fly torque (188wtq) on 1320s Rollers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah that sounds about right. At the 1320 rollers, standard cars make about 145 and JCW's 165 at the fly apparently. Wouldn't mind a GP IC as it would still be OEM but they are silly money brand new.
 

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How do you use the car, street/track? This has a huge effect on kit/costs

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Yeah that sounds about right. At the 1320 rollers, standard cars make about 145 and JCW's 165 at the fly apparently. Wouldn't mind a GP IC as it would still be OEM but they are silly money brand new.
Yeah, 165 at the fly is roughly 195 at the wheels. So, 5-15bhp down depending if you have the 200 or 210.
I've had the intercooler on the car 10 years now, it's amazing how much they have gone up in price in that time, but most Original JCW have as they don't make the parts anymore.
 

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Ah, I just realised you're talking 185whp and JCW quote 200/210bhp. Here's my JCW dyno from going catcam/550/remap. As you can see, 179whp on first run. I would suggest doing the cam & tune route, it makes the car much nicer in terms of power delivery over the stock map, you don't have to put the uber aggressive Catcam in if you want something mellower, speak to the guys and see what they suggest, but it really is the best option. I later went to a 15% pulley too but the cam/tune is where the real gains are.

Rectangle Font Material property Slope Parallel
 

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the answer if you wish to retain the look of originality is ask them to install a Catcam 1302461, or Newman PH2 for the sake of having a choice (which they won't want to use), the 461 will maintain a stock 'ish' idle maybe just a touch over normal speed but very steady with no hunting, the PH2 is the same, actually very smooth and pretty much undetectable, a 4:2.1 manifold which these engines like, and sport cat or Tom cat version, custom tune it, and leave it there, add a GPIC later if one crops up,

this way you introduce zero additional IAT and gain pretty much the same performance a 15 pulley would give on it's own, close enough to it anyway, and a car that drives differently through the full rpm scale, opening it up somewhat. If you have a JCW210 with 380cc injectors I doubt very much you'd have to swap them.

fwiw Big Jim's red S was run up just for the hell of it with a 4:1 manifold, drop in air cleaner (you'd fit an ITG if you have the 210 air box), a stock pulley, and the '461 with no remap and I think it was around 195chp or something, you will have an advantage with an 11% and the JCW's modest porting, and without doubt will be up on where you are now, and discreetly ;O)
 

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Here’s a post from my thread with the graph from the dyno run with the mods Sean mentions above, it’s now tuned up properly by 1320 and is 195whp with the bytronik map, 550s and 15% pulley

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Is there any easy way to tell which JCW tune I have? I don't think the certificate mentions what power it is.

I've also just checked on the 1320 website and the only cam they list is a 1302469, not the 461.
 

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they supply the 461, just ask, usually in stock just not the most common....

don't know about tune check, some numbers are on the ECU if dealer fit which might help, main things are if injectors are blue they're 380's, and if you have the JCW210 air box which has the flap mechanism on top at the back and a solenoid on the side behind the + jump point, they could have been added but tbh it won't matter, the tune will change if having it remapped (not essential on a 461 or Newman PH1/2 although recommended as is the manifold for best results) ;O)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK so it has blue injectors, a red dot on the cylinder head and this airbox so I'm assuming that it should be the 210 kit.

Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Automotive design Car

If so it's down quite a bit on where it should be in theory. I know 1320 told me the JCW's never make book power but I'm down about 25-30bhp which is a bit worrying.
 

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It looks like you have a 210 kit. Didn't Tom/Scott let you know when you were over there?
Car's do loose power over time depending on who's owned them, how they are driven, maintained etc. etc.
I know mine was down on the first run that I'd done, because I drive like an old woman, so the ECU didn't know what was going on the first time it used the whole rev range.
Don't beat yourself up, clean out the air box, flush out the intercooler etc. etc.
 

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Just found this if it helps. On 1320 Mustang.

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This is with a -15 pulley, GP Intercooler, Dave F, Miltek catback and an M7 Hood scoop (Now back to standard).
 
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