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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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I cant go GP due to already have a 2 seater on the drive. So If I got another 2 seater and removed my ability to ferry children around in a four seat MINI, the wife may raise an eyebrow to my selfish ways. :ROFLMAO: She would be right of course.

It has to be four seats.

My Cooper S is pretty much nicer than the two JCW's Ive had in the past, but the Aero (Front and back), Side skirts, Blue Injectors, Ported head, ECU reflash, are all too expensive to add to my S. It would push money spent to stupid o'clock and I always look for the most cost effective route. I agree, £8k for that black one is a lot, but really its £7k as I don't need Recaro's or his carbon additions, so the car would be standard black leather, which would then be removed and the Sparco interior fitted.

Anyway this is all now scuppered on the black one above as he is Christchurch and I am Newcastle upon Tyne. Im not getting a train in this virus riddled climate , and the £455 that Shiply quoted to move it can bugger off. £455 for the pleasure of buying blind.....er no, I don't think so. I will wait...
Absolutely fair play RE the GP then mate, thought it was worth a throw tho (y) 😂
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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I personally wouldn't get too hung up on getting a JCW....sure they are factory approved tuned but they arent really all they are cracked up to be.

If it's more about the aero kit, why not try to find a late model S with it instead.....no doubt you'll probably end up finding a better car for less money?

Not looking for a slaying here either but I'd wager a decent facelift S running a 15% pulley and nothing else.... the performance difference between it and a stock JCW (a 200/210 at least) would be pretty academic. Also although peak figures "may" not be quite as high the higher boost pressure throughout the rev range will probably yield better drivability (as the power curve vs the boost generated from the stock 11% pulley will probably be better).
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I personally wouldn't get too hung up on getting a JCW....sure they are factory approved tuned but they arent really all they are cracked up to be.

If it's more about the aero kit, why not try to find a late model S with it instead.....no doubt you'll probably end up finding a better car for less money?

Not looking for a slaying here either but I'd wager a decent facelift S running a 15% pulley and nothing else.... the performance difference between it and a stock JCW (a 200/210 at least) would be pretty academic. Also although peak figures "may" not be quite as high the higher boost pressure throughout the rev range will probably yield better drivability (as the power curve vs the boost generated from the stock 11% pulley will probably be better).

Mine as it stands, which is a nice car, I just wanted it to be aero'd up and have that ported head/injector ECU thing.

73C94AA8-26DD-4BD3-B6E3-4CA23CEC2C96.jpeg


Apart from adding a newman phase two cam, I don't see what else I can do to this car to increase its performance by much. Might well keep it if I can find a pathway to making it better. It will have that heated Sparco interior shortly too.

Move on or improve?? that is the question


99891
99893
C3F48E9A-E795-4A7C-9CB7-D217AAB0E4E4.jpeg
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Its bloody nice mate....personally not a big fan of the Aero Kit myself so I wouldn't miss not having it.....but if its something you like totally understand the want to buy a car with it on it......it is easier than sourcing the bits, getting them fitted and painting them etc.

Mechanically others may know better but I really dont think having a JCW over a regular S makes much difference when you start modding. A stock JCW is of course more powerful than an S but that's mostly down to its reduced pulley....the map I dont expect adds much power rather just makes sure the car fuels properly (though from what I've read that's debatable anyways).

I'd wager if you didn't bother with the injectors you'd probably get away with a PH2 and a decent manifold like a Janspeed with a tomcat (so basically graft the OE cat into the exhaust system) you'd probably be looking at something in the region of 25/30bhp gains just from the higher cam lift and improved exhaust. With injectors and a decent map I guess you might see another 20bhp on top? Without a map correct fuelling is always a risk and I guess the more you bolt on (and the harder you push things) the bigger that risk becomes but whether you do or dont is a personal choice. Lots of people go full bolt on without mapping without any obvious consequences....I suspect others have and have been bitten by it but again you make your choice.

I gather 260/270bhp is about your lot really on the stock charger going all out......a 17% pulley might be an option but you'll only gain a handful of horsepower and would need a better IC to deal witn the heat......also you'll probably sacrifice top end power for the sake of improved low and mid range go.....but it would be academic vs a 15 I should think.

If you start talking harrop/sprintex chargers you're talking big bucks for not huge gains....to make the big 300 or more I guess you'd really need to go turbo to do it reliably. Astroboy's (Colin's) cars a prime example.

I guess it all depends on how far you want to take things. I'd love to make mine faster but it does very quickly become an expensive rabbit hole to fall down and I generally can't justify the spend on it...sends the missus scatty pretty much every time I do anything to it 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Its bloody nice mate....personally not a big fan of the Aero Kit myself so I wouldn't miss not having it.....but if its something you like totally understand the want to buy a car with it on it......it is easier than sourcing the bits, getting them fitted and painting them etc.

Mechanically others may know better but I really dont think having a JCW over a regular S makes much difference when you start modding. A stock JCW is of course more powerful than an S but that's mostly down to its reduced pulley....the map I dont expect adds much power rather just makes sure the car fuels properly (though from what I've read that's debatable anyways).

I'd wager if you didn't bother with the injectors you'd probably get away with a PH2 and a decent manifold like a Janspeed with a tomcat (so basically graft the OE cat into the exhaust system) you'd probably be looking at something in the region of 25/30bhp gains just from the higher cam lift and improved exhaust. With injectors and a decent map I guess you might see another 20bhp on top?

I gather 260/270bhp is about your lot really on the stock charger going all out......a 17% pulley might be an option but you'll only gain a handful of horsepower and would need a better IC to deal witn the heat......also you'll probably sacrifice top end power for the sake of improved low and mid range go.....but it would be academic vs a 15 I should think.

If you start talking harrop/sprinted chargers you're talking big bucks for not huge gains....to make the big 300 or more I guess you'd really need to go turbo to do it reliably. Astroboy's (Colin's) cars a prime example.

I guess it all depends on how far you want to take things. I'd love to make mine faster but it does very quickly become an expensive rabbit hole to fall down and I generally can't justify the spend on it...sends the missus scatty pretty much every time I do anything to it 😂
Mines given up on me now, she just stopped asking and developed her own habits. Separate bank accounts does help, enormously. Everythings fifty quid innit;);););).

Like the sound of the manifold cat/thing you outlined there.

Does the Newman cam add anything or take away anything in terms of power or character?
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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I wish mine would 🤣

The cam will just increase valve lift for a bigger portion of the rev range......hard to say but you might gain c.12/14 bhp peak by adding one, with gains up to that magnitude throughout the range. Mapped to suit the cam no doubt a few more.

The PH2 for example is on cam from about 2k to 6.5k so it will feel stronger through that rev range.

I guess starting and idling might not be so smooth vs the stock cam but it should work with the stock map and make the car more drivable on the move.

Fairly common knowledge but the cam in the S and JCWs is identical to that of the One and Cooper and it goes off boil around 4.5k. The S and JCW's fair better because the boost somewhat compensates for the lack of valve lift higher up the rev range....but if you have both you have more power.

Hope that makes sense....someone more clued up may shoot me down/correct me but that's my take on it.

RE the tomcat....a known mod that makes really good gains. Manifold is one of the biggest restrictions on these. Is nice as you can run the OE cat off of it, all O2 sensors, no dash lights and does little to knock power as the motor works well.with the back pressure the cat provides.

Is the case of cutting your stock cat off the stock manifold and using a kit you can buy (probably need someone with some welding skills) to put the flanges on and make it all line up between the manifold and catback. Do be aware though that the car will be a shit load louder....particularly if the catback isnt resonated!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I wish mine would 🤣

The cam will just increase valve lift for a bigger portion of the rev range......hard to say but you might gain c.12/14 bhp peak by adding one, with gains up to that magnitude throughout the range. Mapped to suit the cam no doubt a few more.

The PH2 for example is on cam from about 2k to 6.5k so it will feel stronger through that rev range.

I guess starting and idling might not be so smooth vs the stock cam but it should work with the stock map and make the car more drivable on the move.

Fairly common knowledge but the cam in the S and JCWs is identical to that of the One and Cooper and it goes off boil around 4.5k. The S and JCW's fair better because the boost somewhat compensates for the lack of valve lift higher up the rev range....but if you have both you have more power.

Hope that makes sense....someone more clued up may shoot me down/correct me but that's my take on it.

RE the tomcat....a known mod that makes really good gains. Manifold is one of the biggest restrictions on these. Is nice as you can run the OE cat off of it, all O2 sensors, no dash lights and does little to knock power as the motor works well.with the back pressure the cat provides.

Is the case of cutting your stock cat off the stock manifold and using a kit you can buy (probably need someone with some welding skills) to put the flanges on and make it all line up between the manifold and catback. Do be aware though that the car will be a shit load louder....particularly if the catback isnt resonated!
Louder you say, yes, yes, yes!!! This sounds like the future 😃😃😃😃😃
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Louder you say, yes, yes, yes!!! This sounds like the future 😃😃😃😃😃
A lot louder inside and out 😂

Not speaking from experience as I dont have a tomcat but I have read a lot of people who say they are great but frustrating for road use because of the noise. Guess it's a novelty to begin with but can get annoying.

I have a non res Milltek on mine and I find that hard to pass under the radar most of the time...particularly when it decides to randomly pop and bang its ass off.....just gonna be this turned up to 11 I guess 😂😂(y)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #31
RE the tomcat....a known mod that makes really good gains. Manifold is one of the biggest restrictions on these. Is nice as you can run the OE cat off of it, all O2 sensors, no dash lights and does little to knock power as the motor works well.with the back pressure the cat provides.

Is the case of cutting your stock cat off the stock manifold and using a kit you can buy (probably need someone with some welding skills) to put the flanges on and make it all line up between the manifold and catback. Do be aware though that the car will be a shit load louder....particularly if the catback isnt resonated!


So this bit here, above.

I always fall down on how to pick the detail out of what people recommend I should do. It's not your explanation, its my limited (very limited) knowledge of spannering.

So help me here if you can.

I need to buy...a Tomcat? £216 from 1320 yes?
Do i need to buy a Janspeed manifold or can use the OEM?
Do i need to buy anything else or is everything else in this paragraph catered for if I go to 1320 and ask for this product?


I do like the sound of this as the noise and character is pretty much most of what we can enjoy on normal roads with all the traffic about.





Image.png
 

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what is it you're actually trying to achieve? Is there something wrong with your car or is this just about it not being a JCW?

the first black car looks nice despite being a bitsa, with the offer of making it more of one so the owner sees no value in originality, 65k is reasonable, a JCW210 also nice. These are nice cars, but very individual so hard to get the bits you want in a factory state.

there are factory JCW's or dealer fit JCW's, the only ones in my book that will ever be worth anything are factory cars, we can all see what people are doing swapping parts between cars so it'll screw up any chance of confirming genuine cars I expect further down the line.

as for price this is one of the problems with this forum with fb being worse. Talking down the values of the very cars you hope will appreciate in value, and disregard it seems for the vast differences in spec and actual condition. The black car for 8k might be worth it to some wanting the seats, personally I think it should be 8k with the stock interior and other parts.

the JCW or JCW210 in particular will be better than a car running a 15% pulley in so far as mods amplify mods. Yes we can all get an S to outperform one or a GP, but add a15% to an S and get around 200HP, add a 15% to a JCW200 and get maybe 210hp, add one to a JCW210 and get maybe 215hp, you know what I'm saying.

add a cam into the mix yes you can say an S becomes more powerful again, but then so does it as above, and more. The JCW isn't just making it due to the pulley, it's in part due to the head porting, many say it's light porting, but it's not too insignificant, so you'd be wrong to dismiss its value. It might not be great, but it is in the exhaust ports which is where the cars are limited. Then the cars are mapped already, to a level

it isn't just about lift on a cam, it's duration too. Small differences can have a remarkable affect.

The Newman isn't 'on cam' from 2-6.5, that's its range yes, but it will be on cam from around 3.5 probably to around 5.5 plus, the Catcam 1302469 has a range of similar, 2-6.5 or 2.5-7 spec dependant, but they are on cam from 3.8-4k actually more like 4.2 to 6.5-6.8 or thereabouts, I guess we think of different things for 'on cam', but this is where they start to get on it, not from 2, they will just pull from 2, that means they just 'work', nothing more. My EW02 'works' from 2-7, the reality is it will pull a little below 2, and from 7 clears off in a certain spec but 3.8 - 5.5 has a sweet spot where lighter throttle can net nice on road results. This may seem nonsense I don't know, one thing is that differing spec will affect performance delivery.

The Tomcat is the stock large cat cut out and flanged into a removeable cat. A non-res Milltek will always struggle to get on track if with a de-cat. The de-cat with a JCW system gets on, mine for example is 97db static, not black flagged yet at Oulton although I've been told it is pretty loud.

S66TTC, I'm interested in what you're looking to achieve. Adding a cam takes nothing away other than the stock cars 'off idle' low rpm performance which is a combination of the Mini One cam it uses and the charger, the small delay is actually barely noticeable seeing as few are so likely to recognise 1k-2.5k performance as particularly significant.
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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what is it you're actually trying to achieve? Is there something wrong with your car or is this just about it not being a JCW?

the first black car looks nice despite being a bitsa, with the offer of making it more of one so the owner sees no value in originality, 65k is reasonable, a JCW210 also nice. These are nice cars, but very individual so hard to get the bits you want in a factory state.

there are factory JCW's or dealer fit JCW's, the only ones in my book that will ever be worth anything are factory cars, we can all see what people are doing swapping parts between cars so it'll screw up any chance of confirming genuine cars I expect further down the line.

as for price this is one of the problems with this forum with fb being worse. Talking down the values of the very cars you hope will appreciate in value, and disregard it seems for the vast differences in spec and actual condition. The black car for 8k might be worth it to some wanting the seats, personally I think it should be 8k with the stock interior and other parts.

the JCW or JCW210 in particular will be better than a car running a 15% pulley in so far as mods amplify mods. Yes we can all get an S to outperform one or a GP, but add a15% to an S and get around 200HP, add a 15% to a JCW200 and get maybe 210hp, add one to a JCW210 and get maybe 215hp, you know what I'm saying.

add a cam into the mix yes you can say an S becomes more powerful again, but then so does it as above, and more. The JCW isn't just making it due to the pulley, it's in part due to the head porting, many say it's light porting, but it's not too insignificant, so you'd be wrong to dismiss its value. It might not be great, but it is in the exhaust ports which is where the cars are limited. Then the cars are mapped already, to a level

it isn't just about lift on a cam, it's duration too. Small differences can have a remarkable affect.

The Newman isn't 'on cam' from 2-6.5, that's its range yes, but it will be on cam from around 3.5 probably to around 5.5 plus, the Catcam 1302469 has a range of similar, 2-6.5 or 2.5-7 spec dependant, but they are on cam from 3.8-4k actually more like 4.2 to 6.5-6.8 or thereabouts, I guess we think of different things for 'on cam', but this is where they start to get on it, not from 2, they will just pull from 2, that means they just 'work', nothing more. My EW02 'works' from 2-7, the reality is it will pull a little below 2, and from 7 clears off in a certain spec but 3.8 - 5.5 has a sweet spot where lighter throttle can net nice on road results. This may seem nonsense I don't know, one thing is that differing spec will affect performance delivery.

The Tomcat is the stock large cat cut out and flanged into a removeable cat. A non-res Milltek will always struggle to get on track if with a de-cat. The de-cat with a JCW system gets on, mine for example is 97db static, not black flagged yet at Oulton although I've been told it is pretty loud.

S66TTC, I'm interested in what you're looking to achieve. Adding a cam takes nothing away other than the stock cars 'off idle' low rpm performance which is a combination of the Mini One cam it uses and the charger, the small delay is actually barely noticeable seeing as few are so likely to recognise 1k-2.5k performance as particularly significant.
Thanks mate, that's what I meant with the cam its operational range....just badly worded. By contrast the stock cam has a very narrow operational range.

S66TTC listen to CoB he knows his stuff....point I was really making is having a JCW vs a regular S wont lend itself to giving you lots more power modded...a few horses at best..the mods can be bettered on the stock car in any case with deep enough pockets......cams, big valve heads, manifold, custom mapping etc etc.
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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RE the tomcat....a known mod that makes really good gains. Manifold is one of the biggest restrictions on these. Is nice as you can run the OE cat off of it, all O2 sensors, no dash lights and does little to knock power as the motor works well.with the back pressure the cat provides.

Is the case of cutting your stock cat off the stock manifold and using a kit you can buy (probably need someone with some welding skills) to put the flanges on and make it all line up between the manifold and catback. Do be aware though that the car will be a shit load louder....particularly if the catback isnt resonated!


So this bit here, above.

I always fall down on how to pick the detail out of what people recommend I should do. It's not your explanation, its my limited (very limited) knowledge of spannering.

So help me here if you can.

I need to buy...a Tomcat? £216 from 1320 yes?
Do i need to buy a Janspeed manifold or can use the OEM?
Do i need to buy anything else or is everything else in this paragraph catered for if I go to 1320 and ask for this product?


I do like the sound of this as the noise and character is pretty much most of what we can enjoy on normal roads with all the traffic about.





View attachment 99894
So basically yes its geared up to being used with a Janspeed but works with others. 1320 can probably confirm.

You have two choices......either you take the car there and they do the hard work of making the tomcat out of your OE manifold and cat...adding the necessary flanges to bolt it to the Janspeed (or similar) manifold and your catback....and making sure it fits. I guess this price is on top of the fitted cost of having the manifold.

Alternatively you just buy the manifold and the tomcat flange kit and get someone with welding/fabrication experience to make the tomcat for you and fit it. Some people do this themselves but most garages worth their salt could sort this.

Hope that helps
 

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you don't need to buy a tomcat really, or a Janspeed either, the cars don't necessarily make more power. Maybe just my view, I haven't run a cat for some six years I think. I took a customer car to be mapped which was fitted with these, a 17 and a 1302469, on a JCW210, with 550's it made 214whp, not bad? Drove well.
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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115 Posts
The benefit of the tomcat I guess is you can retain the OE emissions kit and wont have any issues come MOT time but benefit from a freer flowing manifold (and more noise if it's your thing).

You can swap between cat and decat easily as well, just a case of unbolting the cat and putting the link pipe in instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
what is it you're actually trying to achieve? Is there something wrong with your car or is this just about it not being a JCW?

the first black car looks nice despite being a bitsa, with the offer of making it more of one so the owner sees no value in originality, 65k is reasonable, a JCW210 also nice. These are nice cars, but very individual so hard to get the bits you want in a factory state.

there are factory JCW's or dealer fit JCW's, the only ones in my book that will ever be worth anything are factory cars, we can all see what people are doing swapping parts between cars so it'll screw up any chance of confirming genuine cars I expect further down the line.

as for price this is one of the problems with this forum with fb being worse. Talking down the values of the very cars you hope will appreciate in value, and disregard it seems for the vast differences in spec and actual condition. The black car for 8k might be worth it to some wanting the seats, personally I think it should be 8k with the stock interior and other parts.

the JCW or JCW210 in particular will be better than a car running a 15% pulley in so far as mods amplify mods. Yes we can all get an S to outperform one or a GP, but add a15% to an S and get around 200HP, add a 15% to a JCW200 and get maybe 210hp, add one to a JCW210 and get maybe 215hp, you know what I'm saying.

add a cam into the mix yes you can say an S becomes more powerful again, but then so does it as above, and more. The JCW isn't just making it due to the pulley, it's in part due to the head porting, many say it's light porting, but it's not too insignificant, so you'd be wrong to dismiss its value. It might not be great, but it is in the exhaust ports which is where the cars are limited. Then the cars are mapped already, to a level

it isn't just about lift on a cam, it's duration too. Small differences can have a remarkable affect.

The Newman isn't 'on cam' from 2-6.5, that's its range yes, but it will be on cam from around 3.5 probably to around 5.5 plus, the Catcam 1302469 has a range of similar, 2-6.5 or 2.5-7 spec dependant, but they are on cam from 3.8-4k actually more like 4.2 to 6.5-6.8 or thereabouts, I guess we think of different things for 'on cam', but this is where they start to get on it, not from 2, they will just pull from 2, that means they just 'work', nothing more. My EW02 'works' from 2-7, the reality is it will pull a little below 2, and from 7 clears off in a certain spec but 3.8 - 5.5 has a sweet spot where lighter throttle can net nice on road results. This may seem nonsense I don't know, one thing is that differing spec will affect performance delivery.

The Tomcat is the stock large cat cut out and flanged into a removeable cat. A non-res Milltek will always struggle to get on track if with a de-cat. The de-cat with a JCW system gets on, mine for example is 97db static, not black flagged yet at Oulton although I've been told it is pretty loud.

S66TTC, I'm interested in what you're looking to achieve. Adding a cam takes nothing away other than the stock cars 'off idle' low rpm performance which is a combination of the Mini One cam it uses and the charger, the small delay is actually barely noticeable seeing as few are so likely to recognise 1k-2.5k performance as particularly significant.
Thanks for the long and considered response.

I will try to make my thoughts understood.

Its a two pronged thing

1) Performance, characterful (loud but not straight through pipe daft) noise, best driving set up. In short making the car drive and feel the best it can be for reasonable money. I though that this should/would involve the light ported JCW head, 550 injectors and reflash of ECU, but i can see that there are clearly more options than just this route on offer. It was this thinking that was leading me down a path or JCW or nothing. This may be incorrect thinking on my part. But as you mention in your post, turning an S from 8 to 9, but then equally turning a JCW up from 10-12 still maintains the relative differences in performance. You are simply starting on a higher platform with the JCW.

So a clear pathway to the best performance and character for spirited road driving is what I am after. Im in my 50's so Im not a hoonigan but I do appreciate the sound, performance and driveability.

2) Aesthetics - I always pick what I think looks the nuts on a car and then go shopping. For me the JCW aero is minimally better than what is on the S, but it is better. Skirts, better shaped front and rear, are just better, slightly more aggressive and do make the car look better. Another reason for pointing towards JCW. If you follow my reason here, I think it will make sense. If you are 4.5-5k into a car that needs full Aero attached, you then add this and add another 1k-1.5k to the cost. You end up being possibly up to £6.5 or even £7.5k (Once more performance mods are added) into a Cooper S, which will never be worth anywhere near that. Whereas if your starting point is a pretty low mile factory 210 JCW with full aero and certificate etc you will still add all these performance and aesthetic tweaks but the likely hood of the car selling further down the line will be much greater, as its an original JCW with fully backed up paperwork etc.


I hope this makes sense.

Performance
Character
Aesthetics
Value at the end

Hope that made sense?
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Thanks for the long and considered response.

I will try to make my thoughts understood.

Its a two pronged thing

1) Performance, characterful (loud but not straight through pipe daft) noise, best driving set up. In short making the car drive and feel the best it can be for reasonable money. I though that this should/would involve the light ported JCW head, 550 injectors and reflash of ECU, but i can see that there are clearly more options than just this route on offer. It was this thinking that was leading me down a path or JCW or nothing. This may be incorrect thinking on my part. But as you mention in your post, turning an S from 8 to 9, but then equally turning a JCW up from 10-12 still maintains the relative differences in performance. You are simply starting on a higher platform with the JCW.

So a clear pathway to the best performance and character for spirited road driving is what I am after. Im in my 50's so Im not a hoonigan but I do appreciate the sound, performance and driveability.

2) Aesthetics - I always pick what I think looks the nuts on a car and then go shopping. For me the JCW aero is minimally better than what is on the S, but it is better. Skirts, better shaped front and rear, are just better, slightly more aggressive and do make the car look better. Another reason for pointing towards JCW. If you follow my reason here, I think it will make sense. If you are 4.5-5k into a car that needs full Aero attached, you then add this and add another 1k-1.5k to the cost. You end up being possibly up to £6.5 or even £7.5k (Once more performance mods are added) into a Cooper S, which will never be worth anywhere near that. Whereas if your starting point is a pretty low mile factory 210 JCW with full aero and certificate etc you will still add all these performance and aesthetic tweaks but the likely hood of the car selling further down the line will be much greater, as its an original JCW with fully backed up paperwork etc.


I hope this makes sense.

Performance
Character
Aesthetics
Value at the end

Hope that made sense?
I do somewhat agree mate.....if the big factor is the aero kit and you dont want to go to the trouble and (possible) expense of sourcing all the bits and getting it fitted and (possibly if not the right colour/condition) painted it's easier to just sell yours and buy an aero pack car.

I still don't think for the money I'd preference a JCW over a decent condition/spec facelift S though. Just going to be spending a lot more money for likely not a great deal of gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I do somewhat agree mate.....if the big factor is the aero kit and you dont want to go to the trouble and (possible) expense of sourcing all the bits and getting it fitted and (possibly if not the right colour/condition) painted it's easier to just sell yours and buy an aero pack car.

I still don't think for the money I'd preference a JCW over a decent condition/spec facelift S though. Just going to be spending a lot more money for likely not a great deal of gain.
The JCW bit falls into the aesthetics/resale area more than the performance I think.

I might this tomcat on the S and see if that changes things. Then with the Sparco seats in, I might just love it enough to stop....maybe🤔
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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.....I think if you were buying a facelift JCW 210/215 to largely keep it stock (and gain power over a stock S that way) then yes makes sense....but seeing as you've modded your S and would carry the mods over the need for it to be a JCW in my mind fades away.

Again a 15% pulley'd facelift S in many cases is JCW'ish go before you do anything else anyway......I think you get my point.
 
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