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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Folks,

After my brand new build bugeye 2.1 Subaru died a death on the rolling road after 2 years of work I lost interest, and bought a cheap R53 JCW unseen off autotrader to run about in.
Unfortnatley it somehow managed to burst the radiator behind ythe AC condenser and took the cylinderhead gasket with it...and...its wasnt very fast to be honest.. so I took it apart

Stuff already done
Works heads totally reworked to as new condition ( I want to keep all the works bits for some reason)
Newman cam fitted
Works air box
Works exhaust
Quicksilver Performance Manifold and Sports Cat (2nd hand but been machined flat to match the head, its was a bit bent like it had been crow barred off)

Stuff to be done
Block, crank, rods and pistons are at the engine builders, after advice from here if they are in good condition Ill reuse with ARP bolts
Rods to be weighed to check they are all pretty close, Ive read some can be quite far out
GTT Flywheel
Helix organic clutch plate
Lux cover
Whole rotating assembly to be balanced
17% Kavs pulley has been bought, I have the 11% JCW one at present and from some of the things Ive read on here maybe I should stick with that?
Airtek intercoler bought
550 Bosch Injectors bought
Coated Super charger oil to change
New alternator
2nd hand AC pump
Quaife, Ive bought it, still to fit it once I figure out something to drive the diff bearings on (I have a press) but nothing the right size lying about
New CV boots, both gearbox ones had gone
Trying to find a new gearbox linkage...the bit held onto the box with 4 bolts, as mine looks worn and a bit rattley, box shifted fine though
Link G4+ Big unknown for me but with 1320 being so far away I think its worth it, I have fitted a Newman can to the head, but I have a feeling a Cat cam might come sooner or later so that I guess would require a tweek to the map and another visit to 1320? therefore I'll just go with the link, and tune it locally. Im sure 1320 are great its just too far if I need it adjusted.
 

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I'd put the -17% pulley on, it certainly made my JCW feel a lot quicker. Or are you worried about the Kavs pulley slipping? Happened on mine, but I caught it before any damage happened. Added loctite on the threads and it's been fine since.

About the gearbox linkage... do you mean this bit: https://www.detroittuned.com/mini-cooper-s-transmission-weight/ ? Or the whole assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the heads up on the pulley slipping...just from what Ive read 11% might be better for the track, but I think the 17 will get fitted...be rude not to I think
Im after the whole assembly, mine is all loose
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like its been done loads before and I've got it all sitting here:thumbup: so Ill give it a go at 17...the car was just a bit boring with the 11 on it. ...Although that might be due to the fact the top end was worn to bits !
I take it will whine a lot more with the 17?
 

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The 17% pulley will spin faster at lower revs so it’ll shift the torque down the rev range which I think is great, it’ll also spin faster at higher revs for a toasty warm engine - not so great.
I don’t ramp the tits off my car so I like the power a little lower down, if you are planning to stay in high revs then I would stick with the 11%.

Edit: if you want more whine then get an Orranje stealth box for the intake.
 
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