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Just re-reading your build list and possibly not related but might be worth mentioning following points ....
have you considered a lower temp thermostat? are you reusing existing/old one ? what is the lid to your tank oem/stant/other ?
have you cleaned the exhaust manifold and heat shield of dumped fluid
Is the exhaust new to you, has it been run on this car before and after recent mods, how about the exhaust manifold and cat? same questions on the airtec.

what is a head bolt conversion ? If arp how about dumping some fluids and re sitting the head ? which head gasket did you use, thicker one ?

I'm not sure if any of the above is useful or if your testing kit will move you much further forward,
it might be as simple as some old crap in the exhaust system, and excess coolant dumping, both are not symptoms of anything wrong with the engine.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
I put the intercooler and all that back on and a water temp gauge and oil pressure after the testing...started it up again
Looked much better...god knows why...

although...I did lash a heap of cylinder head sealant into the thing when the radiator was leaking before the rebuild the sealant was like little copper flakes...I fired a load of water round the whole thing when it was in bits to flush out the leak stopper but when I drained the coolant today, there was still evidence of it...maybe that has sealed the leak..again fuk knows..bloody cars...lol

Water temp stays about 75 and the oil pressure is 20psi idle and 50+ at 4k revs
There was a little white smoke on start up but seemed to go once it was warm.

I think I'll leave it at that till I can get it to 1320...im sure they'll tell me straight away if there's something amiss with the car

Alski cheers for the reply

Its a new thermostat
Its a alloy expansion tank, the cap lifts around 18 psi...did notice its toasty hot...like 95+ when the rad is only 65?
Eh no, they were covered in the stuff but I cant see how that could come out the exhaust
No cat, the cat chamber is there but the manifold came off some race car and has had all the cat internals whipped out
Rest of the exhaust in JCW..but I took the center silencer out, now a straight pipe...sounds pretty good to be honest
No head conversion, I spoke to the engine builder and the conversion is something on the bottom end...not entirely sure what


Out of vodka...suppose that means bed time
 

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if your coolant is 75 and the rad cool then it isn't bled, the stat doesn't open until 91c, the top left of the rad needs to be the same temp as the top right
 

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Discussion Starter #45
The rad doesn’t have a bleed point at the left...I’ve left the vent on the top radiator hose open with a hose to a funnel held up about two feet full of coolant....is there a trick I’m missing?
 

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I didn't say it did? The top right (o/s) of the rad gets hot first, top left (n/s) when the stat opens, going cold after the fan has run. There are two bleeds, one on the steel pipe from the pump running below the stat and the other in the top hose. Make sure you get coolant out of the steel pipe bleed. If necessary try blowing down the expansion tank with it open and the hose bleed closed, if no coolant comes out remove the 8mm bleed bolt and check the hole is clear, it can still bleed anyway but it's sometimes a pain. You have the heater on hot with the fan off too don't you? This won't resolve the steam and odour but it clearly isn't right regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Once again (y)
The temp is more or less the same both sides of the radiator now...the bleed on the metal pipe did something
 

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(y) 🤞
 
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