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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks for the feedback.
Right I have removed the charger belt and ran the for a breif second (down the drive and back) and the rattle is still there so now I know it's nothing to do with the charger. So I think it's bite the bullet time and do the bottom end bearings.

Can these be done with the engine in the car or is it engine out job?
 

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someone suggested before about the manifold leaking under load which is a possibility but if you're certain it's a knock clearly maybe not. The bottom engine mounts perish/split and cause manifold flexi issues.

big ends can be done in the car, the noise from these is typically pretty clear, less so if a small end, just sayin'. At your mileage I would be doing the ends anyway, they'll be through to colour (from as early as 50k) as will the mains I'm sure. I've just taken these out at 133k.... you won't be far behind. Check cam lobes also, roller tip rockers are good at keeping quiet at lower rpm but at speed might prove different potentially.
99218


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Discussion Starter #25
When I put the car back together today I did notice a tappet (tick) which cleared when I reved the engine. I will double check the manifold tomorrow. Something else I did notice once when the car got on my nerves, because I couldn't find the rattle I booted the car and I notice a small amount of bluish smoke come out from under the right wing with a nasty burning oil smell. So I pulled over asap to find zero oil leaks and nothing blowing. Not rattles or anything it's as if the car is possessed... this rattle issue has been ongoing now for a while so if I don't find it im going k swap the car because I can't be doing with a engine that refuses to work properly. I really have replaced a lot of parts on the engine and it should at least run right in stock form
 

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Discussion Starter #26
When I put the car back together today I did notice a tappet (tick) which cleared when I reved the engine. I will double check the manifold tomorrow. Something else I did notice once when the car got on my nerves, because I couldn't find the rattle I booted the car and I notice a small amount of bluish smoke come out from under the right wing with a nasty burning oil smell. So I pulled over asap to find zero oil leaks and nothing blowing. Not rattles or anything it's as if the car is possessed... this rattle issue has been ongoing now for a while so if I don't find it im going k swap the car because I can't be doing with a engine that refuses to work properly. I really have replaced a lot of parts on the engine and it should at least run right in stock form
When I say booted I mean thrashed!
 

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smoke out of the right wing and no leaks makes me wonder if the crank damper could have a problem, it does happen so might be worth ruling out? They separate.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
smoke out of the right wing and no leaks makes me wonder if the crank damper could have a problem, it does happen so might be worth ruling out? They separate.
There was definitely a smell of burning rubber or oil but I couldn't find anything to back that up (leaks) apart from the smoke after being giving a beating, the crank damper pulley is less than 2months old and was genuine bmw part. I looked at the pulley the other day and to look at doesn't look any different from the day I fitted it. Is it wise to go with a lightweight version without the rubber insert? Also could that pulley cause a rattle if it failed? That pulley is on the side where I can hear the rattle
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Right then guys.

Operation (your not going beat me you bastard) has begun.

So today I stripped down the r53 tractor and found a few things. First of all I removed all the rod caps and looked at the bearings. Some where ok ish and a couple were scored.
I have pics of each cylinder just to clear things up. I have not looked at the little ends yet.

I was wondering should the w11b16 rods have Any side to side play? Not up and down but side to side, here's a short video of what im talking about.



Pics of each cylinder to follow
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The oil squirters look good. There's were no blockages or metal in the pick up pipe, the bottom of the sump was a tiny bit dirty due to the previous owners not doing regular oil changes. I found a very minimal ammount of metal in the bottom of the sump which is shown by the pic with the magnet tool I ran through the old oil. Tomorrow is supercharger rebuild day as I might as well do it while it's off the car and get that original pulley off because the charger is not going back on the car until the engine is right. The only reason I have comitted to it is because the k series I have is going in a smart car now so this w11 needs to get sorted.

So if any one has any input the it would be appreciated guys.

Oh and lastly I have taken a pick of a damaged wire on the ac compressor, does anyone know if thes can be replaced as it's only very sort and not really a (cut and solder a piece in) job. I'm guessing the compressor pulley would need removing to get access???

Let me know what you think.
 

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the problem is not being able to hear the noise so you may get all sorts of suggestions, if the damper was OEM then it won't be that but there must be a reason for that smoke. The alternators seize on these, casings split, they slow down or can lock up and take some freeing but they're done then anyway. Check it's free maybe.

the bottom end there looks alright, like you say some minor scoring, bearings look a little coloured in places in those pics, some lateral play is ok, check the crank end float perhaps though so you know it isn't loading them, it would have to be bad but I've seen it on a N/A car. Doesn't look like the noise is from down there then.

compressor wire, not something I've seen repaired, I'm sure it'd be possible
 

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Discussion Starter #36
the problem is not being able to hear the noise so you may get all sorts of suggestions, if the damper was OEM then it won't be that but there must be a reason for that smoke. The alternators seize on these, casings split, they slow down or can lock up and take some freeing but they're done then anyway. Check it's free maybe.

the bottom end there looks alright, like you say some minor scoring, bearings look a little coloured in places in those pics, some lateral play is ok, check the crank end float perhaps though so you know it isn't loading them, it would have to be bad but I've seen it on a N/A car. Doesn't look like the noise is from down there then.

compressor wire, not something I've seen repaired, I'm sure it'd be possible
Cheers for the reply. I think someone has replaced the bearings at some point because I don't think they have done 110k miles on them. I'm going check the little ends on the rods tomorrow see if there's any play then im going check the mains. If they are the same then the issue has to be top end tappets. I ordered a new flat exhaust mani gasket so should be going on where that gets here.
Do you happen to know the torque settings for the big ends rods cap bolts? When I cleaned the tappets last time I stripped them down I did not see any can wear or anything that looked unhealthy on the cam lobes. Wit that lifer tick coming and going its going be that I'm guessing. But I see the lifter ain't cheap and are a premium for what they are and do.

Hopefully I will get to the bottom of it soon.

Would you advise going with a light weight 1 piece crank pulley? And getting rid of the rubber scrap pulley
Kavs, alta, etc...
 

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as far as I'm concerned either stay with OEM crank damper definitely never an ebay pos or use an ATI Superdamper, the fixed ones although there are plenty of people saying they haven't experienced issues, it doesn't mean there aren't any, just the same as they won't experience issues necessarily with big ends that show wear, but they'll be worn from as early as 50k and an engine can still be quiet to them at 90k, the problem is still there, just accelerating crank journal wear too. The nose of the crank has to deal with the charger loads, and the oil pump inner gear slides directly over it, so any vibration/harmonics transmitted through this end of the crank can prove harmful which I have read in a few places is believed to have affected the pumps, there's not enough on this to be clear how much of a risk it is but a fractured oil pump gear which is possible as they're very brittle will obviously kill a motor in seconds, so not a risk worth taking perhaps. The distance from the first bearing is quite long compared to the rear bearing which is not affected by fitting light flywheels it would appear. Interestingly the main bearings that appear to wear faster are the first and last even on stock engines so at the front I guess this suggests there is some flex perhaps, the rear I think is affected by the DMF's possibly with balance perhaps not so great but only one view. I use an aluminium flywheel from GTT which makes a big difference to the engine response and hopefully might prove to extend the life of the rear main bearing, time might tell but fitted it for response not due to preserve the bearing, I suspect that'll just be a passive bonus maybe.

torques look in newtis.info also for your tolerances if interested in those. The ends, it can be a worthwhile idea to use ARP. Even those're only 25lbs ft using ARP lube, ideally tightened using a stretch gauge but good wrench is alright. The stock bolts are around £30 and single use, or supposed to be.

lifters I think can be bought from Jeep/Chrysler.
 

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Has anyone tried a cooper crank pulley? I've no idea of the weight but its damped and there appears to be less of it
you can't use it, the snout size is different
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Just a little update.

Thanks for the advice carsandbikes.
I would like a gtt flywheel but I nearly fell over when I saw the price of them. I put one in my sti about a month ago and it was only £120!
These mini ones are a bit pricey though.

So on with the 'jobs done'

Big ends, mains and crank journals measured and all within tolerance. The bearings are all standard size so the crank has not been machine in the past. There is no twist in the rods when torqued back up so doesn't show any signs of little end failure.
The alternator has been stripped, cleaned and greased and was not sized up same goes for the ac compressor. Just waiting on parts now to rebuild the car (water pump o ring, rad top hose, crank sensor o ring, another crank pulley, uprated bpv)
Thought I would treat the rusty block to a lick of paint seeing as I'm waiting now.
So looks like the rattle 'should' be tappet/ top end related.
So cam is coming out tomorrow and will be measured for wear with a full set of tappets.

I think I can see the light at the end of tunnel guys!!! There isn't much left on this car that hasn't been done.

With regards to the bpv does anyone know which spring to use to upgrade/strengthen the the flap as I can't find any info on spring size or strength. I have recalibrated the flap just need to do the spring or would stretching the stock spring be just as effective?
 

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