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Discussion Starter #1
Evening all.
New to the forum so bare with me.

I picked up a 2006 mcs with 110k miles Teflon charger and 6spd, totally standard car and was in a sorry state, so like all other mini freaks I put time and effort into it.

A week later the Management light came on the dash, plugged it in and got a knock related code I can't remember which (p) code it was but anyway, the car was in limp mode so i Replace the oil with castrol edge 5w 40 titanium, oil flush, genuine filter, ngk iridium heat 7's ,new uprated plug leads, new coil and tested the knock sensor. cleared the code and all was well for 1.5 months.

Then I started to get a strange rattle or knock @ around 4k revs @ wide open throttle so I thought maybe it's time for a timing chain kit/tensioner so I fitted a genuine chain, guides, oil pump and Tensioner and while I was there I replace the crank dampening pulley. Then about a week later the car started to tap slightly at idle from the left side of the rocker cover so I thought maybe all along the issue was with the hydraulic tappets. So I stripped them down cleaned in paraffin and all was in tolerance re fitted and all good for about 24hrs the engine was quiet as a mouse.

Then the rattle came back!!!
This w11 engine is beginning to get on my nerves to be honest and I'm ready throw it in the bin.. and do a k swap.
So parts changed all genuine-
New oil and filter 5w 40 castrol
K and N air filter
Ngk iridium plugs 7's
Coil and Leads
Supercharger belt
Aux belt Tensioner
Aux belt lower guide/ pulley
Timing chain and guides
Timing chain Tensioner
Oil pump
Crank damp pulley
New bpv
Pcv valve
Intake pipe
Cleaned throttle bodie
Cleaned intercooler and horns
Stripped and cleaned the tappets
Tested knock sensor.
Tested cam sensor.

I have noticed a slight rattle coming from the clutch release bearing at idle because the noise goes when the pedal is pressed. I don't think it is that but is it a possibility??? I don't get any codes or limp now but the rattle @wot is still there??? No loss of power and still makes the stock 10psi with no issue. When driven steady the car won't rattle at all Which says to me it's not a bottom end knock, iv never heard of a knock only be there at wot?

I know it's abit long winded but
Any help would be greatly appreciated
As I want to get this engine right before I put any power through it as I fancy do a full fat w11 if it will take it.

Dale
 

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They are noisy engines. However the hydraulic tappets seize. In a healthy one there is about 2mm+ of movement.
Could be the clutch and associated parts. Whats the biting point like? Heavy or light pedal?
 

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As Mike says, the tappets can seize. You've covered pretty much all of the other bases with what you've done already. Do all of the plugs look the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The pedal is pretty light but it bites I would say low down. aparently the previous owner fitted a clutch but I don't think they replace the dual mass flywheel or the release bearing which to me is just stupid.. i can hear the rattle louder with the drivers window down then what I can with the nearside window down. Which made me think it was timing chain or tensioner related. But everything on that side of the engine is near enough new? It's a head scratcher
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so this was the best I could do with my shit phone. The noise is a lot loader in person but it's only under heavy load. Turn you speakers up for this one, file is 2 big to upload here so I have a link for ytube

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure what's going on with that cold start. Sounds a lot like my engine when cold...

Could that sound at wot be a leak in the exhaust manifold..? Manifold gasket or broken flexi or maybe even cat gone to pieces?
For a breif second on the cold start you can hear a small rattle, I had the exhaust manifold off the car about a month ago to check the cat and refitted with a new gasket. The flexi, cat and gasket are all good no signs of blowing. The video really doesn't do it justice because of wind noise. Its like a metallic rattle only on wot. I'm not convinced it's bottom end bearings because I can't hear any rattle when the car is stationery and revved up. I don't think the dual mass is on its way out because I don't get any chatter. Its definitely coming from the off side off the car which is driving me mad tbh.

Is there anything belt side of the supercharger that could rattle behind the nose where the pulley sits??
Poss a bearing or something?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you listen about 12 sec in on the strange rattle video you can hear it faintly. but sat in the car it's pretty loud even with the windows up which is typical. I have a mate with a go pro so might see if I can do a under bonnet video to try pin point where the rattle is coming from.
 

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these cars often rattle from gear chatter at idle, you can depress the clutch and it go but release it slowly and it not always reappear, plenty of people confuse this with DMF issues I believe

where in the world are you?

all I can hear in the first clip is what sounds like pinking but really not clear, manifold gaskets tend to leak worse from cold, but if you have one of those shite perforated ones or at the cat joint they really are dire, stick to pressed steel oem style imo.

I don't really agree that these are noisy engines, slight rattle for a split second on cold start is it really, or very cold or due for service etc but overall they are or should be quiet.

are you running a standard pulley?
 

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I'm located in the potteries. Midlands. And the car runs a standard sc pulley. I thought maybe running a larger cone filter on there made the car 'pink' so put the original airbox back on and the car still runs the same with a rattle under wot. Its definitely getting worse (louder) as time goes by. I'm tempted put in a set of rod bearings just to give me piece of mind. I want to up the power but I can't until I know the engine can take it. I have a few bits to put on the car but I don't fancy blowing it up
 

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I often suggest to swap these bearings, they can show colour from 50k, mains can too, by 75 ends will need doing I'm sure on most cars and if not mains with them then at 100 I'd suggest they are seriously considered. People don't expect an engine when still quiet to show the wear it can once apart which proves the value of preventative work, easy to say when it's people like me that do it and someone else paying perhaps but we can't turn the clock back so they're worth getting done not to recondition but to preserve, at least the ends in good time as it's those that are contributing to broken up cars. With either of these worn on any engine, oil pressure will be affected to some degree.

It'll give you the opportunity to see if there's any debris in the sump and check the oil squirt jets are intact, oil pick up blocked.

A better sound clip would help.

You mentioned anything under the charger snout, yes there is a drive coupler that can wear.

In the start up clip the car sounds like there is some noise at :30 that I'm not certain is usual.
 

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I also have this issue, sounds like it’s pinking a bit. I have changed my clutch assembly and fitted a solid flywheel. I have also changed chain tensioner, and fitted a good crank pulley. I replaced my belt tensioner and damper also. I am thinking it could be the charger pto, which I will be investigating soon.


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Just to add, mine is only under full load too.


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it won't be likely that it's the charger pto only at wot. Easy way to check the pto is working is from cold, start the car and remove the expansion tank cap and observe a constant coolant supply back to the tank at idle from the pump working normally, if the pto if dead at 6k it'll be dead at 1k ;O) I say cold as many of the cooling systems if not in the best condition can back up the coolant when hot with the cap off, if good and not overfilled they'll run for some time if the system isn't blocked anywhere and the fan works on both speeds correctly.

pinking, you have a pulley?

similar sounding noises can be totally different issues, get a sound clip perhaps, check your plugs are tight, check your drive belt has a hole in the tensioner safety strap at least partly visible above the tensioner body and it isn't bouncing around much, these cars can chuck spark plugs out for fun, often found loose, if they can leak cylinder pressure they can draw unmetered air in and cause problems, easy to check, 27nm.
 

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I’ll check that with the pto thanks, I recently replaced all plugs, it didn’t change. All plugs were tight before and all the same colour. Belt tensioner has been replaced and has a hole showing. I did consider the exhaust manifold, mine is not in the best shape.

I’m on stock pulley, plugs etc. Only mod for me is a cat back.

I’ll double check my plugs today. Frustrating I have time but can’t really go out in it with lockdown..


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