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Discussion Starter #1
I've started toying with the idea of racing an R50 in a Finnish "endurance saloon" class, and I think the biggest question is how big of a diet the R50 can be put on.

Minimum weight with less than 1600cc 16V engine in that class is 920kg (no fuel, no driver), and I reckon it would need to be under 960kg to avoid being a moving chicane. Is this a realistic goal with a full cage? All steel body panels need to be retained, as well as original glass windows (driver's window can be replaced with a net, but it might get nasty if it rains). Suspension arms need to be factory items. Headlamps can be removed.

Rules allow a BVH and a cam and a tune, but both manifolds need to be stock (although cat can be removed from the exhaust manifold and placed further back), so I'm thinking 150bhp should be easy..?
 

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2006 R53
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One of my mates got his R53 with a full cage, two seats and full size battery down to 1003kg, that was with Fibreglass panels though. Sub 1000 should be easily achievable on an R50 even with steel panels
 

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Bugger
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I've taken about 100kg out of my cooper when I removed all the sound deadening, seats / fitted buckets, removed all the trim etc. I would say I'm about 1090kg at the moment with some of the trim back in. I've also got the alloy arms to go on which take a chunk out.

Not having the supercharger makes a massive differeance to the weight as well.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
1320's old red was 1116kg (2460lb) when they did 10.379 in 2013... that sounds like a lot. Couldn't find other weight info on it with a quick search. Didn't go through all the 30+ pages on it here yet tho...

GP trailing arms would be allowed as they're from a 'similar model', but that's only 3kg or so. There are race batteries that weigh about 1kg, but they cost an arm and a leg. Doesn't look very promising.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like Paul is not a a little fella..? :D But it would explain a lot if it was weighed with fuel and driver. And at least in some pictures it has two seats.

How about power wise... if the thing would end up weighing a metric ton, could it be pushed to 160hp with a de-catted stock exhaust manifold and a stock intake manifold? W11 short block and swap pistons to get the compression up, slap a BVH and '469' cam on it..?
 

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I'm not sure I'd use a 469 on an r50, depends on the head you have in mind too, can you change gearing?
 

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If you can use any box from any Mini why not use the R53 6 speed? The ratios were quite long in my pre-fl Midlands R50 box.

Sent from my HRY-LX1 using Tapatalk
 

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It was a Cooper, didn't know they had different ratios. Yes 6 speed is a bit heavier but at least it won't break.

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I liked the gears in the 5 speed Getrag personally in my 2005 F/L 'One', up to ~135 it was in a good place for the cam but I never finished what I started before swapping it for the black S, it was looking good though for a fairly respectable pace N/A car. Some have had problems with 5 speed Getrag boxes still but could be normal wear, abuse or neglect related who knows. Many might suggest using a 6 speed conversion, but that might only benefit you in the early gears getting moving I don't know, certainly for the facelift, depends on other things how it works for you.

I liked the longer 1st/2nd on the road, and would on track if using the stock boxes, I intend on running a pre facelift box in my facelift S on track at some point when a stock box might go back in. They just have a more useable range in gear rather than wringing out a gear and hanging on it for the last few yards if not having the rpm range to pull it further and not wanting to upshift late on the track perhaps, seen on some td clips I notice. Also having seen cars in race starts fitted with FL boxes starting in 2nd, if that isn't an example of a FL box compromise I don't know what is haha. Probably no happy medium for some. That's not saying I prefer it over the F/D conversion where I might favour the lower gearing affect, that is a totally different experience going through the box generally and very significant I think on the car overall, I know you can't make use of that, just saying.

The FL box in 3rd @ ~8k is a 100mph gear though, so like I say, other things make a difference, when looking at vehicle weight I think you'd be better with a One F/L Getrag rebuilt, light flywheel if allowed, otherwise the stock SMF balanced with other parts etc might be the way, or Cooper, you might have to mess to get the ratio right for you if different, there is ratio info on NAM somewhere I think from some time back, but can get a bit hard to follow from memory. Can't remember if stuff is on here too, it might be but iirc some people's opinion/fact was looking erroneous, can't really remember, long time since I looked now.
 

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Bugger
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I'm pretty sure in the Cooper cup here they used to take 5th gear out of the 5 speed Getrag boxes.
 

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MiniTorqueGoesFinland
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Just thinking aloud, you'd need lightweight suspension (Öhlins?), lightweight rims (15s?) and modest rubber, adequate brakes (decent pads, floating discs, but no BBKs/massive calipers?), no aircon, no interior, no sound deadening, no seam sealant, a stripped down harness, no crash bars (is that even legal?)...

Where did the Cooper Cup cars get to in terms of weight?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just thinking aloud, you'd need lightweight suspension (Öhlins?), lightweight rims (15s?) and modest rubber, adequate brakes (decent pads, floating discs, but no BBKs/massive calipers?), no aircon, no interior, no sound deadening, no seam sealant, a stripped down harness, no crash bars (is that even legal?)...
Sounds about right. Tyre sizes are limited, and 15's would allow smaller tyre diameter (vs. 16's), which helps with gearing. Crash bars I'd rather keep. Although from the Volvo 850 we built for the same class we did remove the rear one...

Oh and a lightweight flywheel can be used.
 

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Bugger
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I'd go BC with Swift Springs for track, probably 9KG F and 10KG R on semi slicks
 
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