Is this a repeated clunk at road/wheel speed until the car stops?

 

Yeah

 

Have you checked your top mounts? They are only loaded when the car is on the ground and weight goes through them.

Wear may not show when they are unloaded.

 

Yeah I have checked them, having been out in the car not too long ago since my last reply. I can confirm at the moment it appears to be a "single" clunk. Not sure why it changes the more the car is driven the repeated clunks appear.

I'll triple check the top mounts as they may have had time to settle in and may need a further tightening.

Any other possibilities?

Thanks

rob

 

have you done the lower engine mount?

 

CV joints?

 

if rotational, wheel speed, only when braking, I'd be inclined to look for disc damage, if singular in the same conditions then pad/caliper or subframe mounts and inner ball joint security etc perhaps? Also check wheel spokes if aftermarket fwiw.

 

As CoB says above, single clunk implies disc/caliper/caliper carrier.

 

Sorry for the delay in replying..

Had a chance to get under the car today, had my brother on hand for further eye-ballage. After a lot of prodding, pulling poking. We believe we have found the issue.. the rear brake pads slap around within the caliper carrier/caliper. After taking a good look we came to the conclusion there isnt anything we can do to stop the rear pads slapping around.

Also noted that the right side rear was dragging slightly where the passenger side wasn't dragging.

The rear calipers, discs, pads and handbrake cables were replaced in December for the mot. We aren't really able to do much about the drivers rear wheel dragging slightly as it only has one adjustment nut for the handbrake cables instead of individual adjustment.

We suspect that it felt as though it was coming from the front due to the amount of slap at the rear, travelling up the rear arm to the radius arm mounting point which isn't too far from the two front seats so explains why we could feel it through the floor. I could feel it exactly the same when my brother was using a screw driver to slap the pad back and forth.

Hopefully it won't get any worse.

The old rear brakes never made a noise.. must have been because they were pretty much seized up. These are free and moving 🤔 no solutions but.. all bolts are tight etc.

Thanks

Rob

 

the pads shouldn't move that much really, just easy to slide, maybe it's a combination of aftermarket or refurbished brake parts causing it,

check the caliper cable linkage is returning easily to its stop on both sides, if not then it can be worth releasing the cable, only one adjuster but there is a balance bar, if it holds the linkage from being overtightened it can affect caliper self adjustment or even bind,

also it's worth checking the pads are installed correctly, the inner pads clip onto the piston so generally wouldn't be moving, it's quite common to see these fitted wrong, had another here last week

the other reason for bind is slide rubbers being squeezed by corrosion which if your calipers were new shouldn't exist, still worth a mention

 

the pads shouldn't move that much really, just easy to slide, maybe it's a combination of aftermarket or refurbished brake parts causing it,

check the caliper cable linkage is returning easily to its stop on both sides, if not then it can be worth releasing the cable, only one adjuster but there is a balance bar, if it holds the linkage from being overtightened it can affect caliper self adjustment or even bind,

also it's worth checking the pads are installed correctly, the inner pads clip onto the piston so generally wouldn't be moving, it's quite common to see these fitted wrong, had another here last week
View attachment 104343 View attachment 104344 View attachment 104345 View attachment 104346

the other reason for bind is slide rubbers being squeezed by corrosion which if your calipers were new shouldn't exist, still worth a mention
View attachment 104347

Thanks for the excellent reply! I will study it a little further.

The rear calipers are aftermarket I think. The pads do move and cause the clunk.

The issue I've come across is.. the routing of the handbrake cables through the inside of the car to the underneath where the bracket is bolted into the rear subframe and then routes to the caliper. With the rear wheels off the floor so the suspension was hanging, I found the handbrake cables were pulling on the calipers and causing the calipers to twist on the sliders if this makes sense. I have to place a jack under the rear lower suspension arm bolt and raise the rear hub to allow a little bit of tension from the handbrake cable.

I know the cables are fitted correctly as they are sided and don't fit the other way around anyway.

The handbrake mechanism spring appears to fully release, the issue I have is the inner brake pads appear to need to be in full contact with the disc to help keep the caliper lined up correctly in the carrier and slipper pins. Not the easiest to explain. Effectively the body of the caliper tries to twist slightly on the caliper slider pins.

What is this balance bar you speak off? You mean the horse shoe shape bracket that the handbrake cables connect into before it goes off to the single adjustment nut next to the handbrake handle?

The pads are fitted correctly to the piston too, a little bit of a faff to say the least.. that I do remember! 😂

Thanks
rob