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2004, R53 MINI Cooper S. (Pre-facelift)
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greeting Minitorquers:

I just finished swapping my stock engine with a JCW engine.
When I went for my first test drive the car drove half way around the block and shut itself off...
(It seems like its protecting itself.)
I'm running a stock tune with the bigger 380cc JCW injectors... (15% pulley)
could this be the cause?
do I need a tune to run the bigger injectors?
The car Idles fine and seems to drive normally for about a minute...
The problem always seems to occur seconds after a small pull.
the car comes back to life after a couple of hours of being turned off.

: c
 

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Mr. White Shoes
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566 Posts
I think some people are running the 380cc’s with the stock map and have no issues.
Your problem does sound strange. Someone with more knowledge than me will be able to help.
 

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2004, R53 MINI Cooper S. (Pre-facelift)
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I swapped out the 380cc injectors for the stock 330cc and had the same result, the car is running perfectly fine...
I did a small pull (nothing crazy) as soon as I took my foot of the gas the car stopped...
I cranked the starter motor and it sputtered to life for a second and clunked out...

What happens if I have pre-destination? Does the engine shut itself down?
 

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2004, R53 MINI Cooper S. (Pre-facelift)
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Update...

After spending some time trying to diagnose the issue:
Issue description: Car fails to Idle, A better description of the issue is that as the car's revs come down the car fails to Idle and shots off.
After some exploratory work, Findings:
1) My spark plugs are covered in black all 4. (Picture of cylinder 1 spark plug)
2) I've also noticed the oil smells a little like gasoline/petrol.
3) I've swapped out the crank position sensor (no change).
4) The spark plugs don't look sandy so I think this means my mixture is rich.
(It's only been around the block a few times so maybe they will become sandy in time)
It might not be rich any more since I'm now running stock 330CC injectors.

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Registered
2004, R53 MINI Cooper S. (Pre-facelift)
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Next Id try different coil and leads.
Make sure theyre in the correct order.
I only have one set of coil and leads, I would have to purchase a new set to do the swap.
(Also; I've checked and the leads are in the correct order, btw)

What are your view on aftermarket leads and coils?
Are you on the keep it stock camp? or are there benefits to those MDS coil packs and leads?
 

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3,176 Posts
I only have one set of coil and leads, I would have to purchase a new set to do the swap.
(Also; I've checked and the leads are in the correct order, btw)

What are your view on aftermarket leads and coils?
Are you on the keep it stock camp? or are there benefits to those MDS coil packs and leads?
Youll be wasting money on fancy coil packs.
 

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Premium Member
2006 R53
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10,756 Posts
Make sure your plugs are connected up in the right firing order. Confirm that your throttle body connector is clicked down (two clicks) and locked in place, and that both your MAP and TMAP sensors are connected. A fault code read would also help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2004, R53 MINI Cooper S. (Pre-facelift)
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Make sure your plugs are connected up in the right firing order. Confirm that your throttle body connector is clicked down (two clicks) and locked in place, and that both your MAP and TMAP sensors are connected. A fault code read would also help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Update:
1) Leads are in the correct firing order.
2) I've ordered a new MAP sensor for testing and diagnosing a possible MAP sensor malfunction.
3) I measured the coil packs resistance with a multimeter and both cores read 12.3k ohm, which as far as I know is in spec.
4) swapp'ed old for new EVAP solenoid. (Car seams to Idle a little better, But problem persists).
5) Swapp'ed Cam position sensor (No changes to issue)
6) I pulled engine codes using the built in "test function" in the speedometer, Test 14 provides ECU Codes which read as fallows:
(Can not connect to OBD2 port to read codes, I've been tolled early models need proprietary BMW port reader)
(14.0) 5028000
(14.1) 102 100
(14.2) 120 100
(14.3) 622800
(14.4 ) 632800

Automotive lighting Watch Gauge Amber Motor vehicle


Gauge Motor vehicle Watch Measuring instrument Material property



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Speedometer Gauge Motor vehicle Odometer Measuring instrument


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2004, R53 MINI Cooper S. (Pre-facelift)
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So I took the R53 to a dude that had all the correct BMW diagnostic software and in a nutshell...
the ECU software was malfunctioning and sensors had no communication between them;
The ECU was dumping a ton of fuel into the engine hence the rich smell.
The ECU got re flashed and everything went back to normal.
how did this happen you ask...
according to the mechanic BMW electronics remain active for 20 min after shutting off your car and ECU memory is always active as long as the ECU has power.
so you shouldn't unplug any sensors until the ECU is completely shut down and has no power; other wise it could cause memory or other software issues.
According to the mechanic; the best way to accomplish power removal from your ECU is to remove the battery wires and join the negative to the positive wire for a minimum of 60 sec.
This will drain power from the ECU at which point it will record its active memory on to itself and you should be able to swap shit out.

Hope this helps some one.
Oh and my R53 got re-flashed with a JCW tune and the car feels great.
also the Quaife dif. feels awesome.
Oh... and the codes are proprietary BMW, the ECU is using some fancy European BMW protocol which even has the word "euro" in the name, which explains why I couldn't connect using a OBD2 code reader and why I couldn't find any info on the codes online.
 

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All models of mini should connect to an OBD reader, those that don’t usually have an issue with the purple and white k bus wire in the loom (usually between the ECU and the multi connector in the engine bay). search on here as my brother and I fixed his minis kbus wire.
 

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2004, R53 MINI Cooper S. (Pre-facelift)
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
All models of mini should connect to an OBD reader, those that don’t usually have an issue with the purple and white k bus wire in the loom (usually between the ECU and the multi connector in the engine bay). search on here as my brother and I fixed his minis kbus wire.
I'll check it out, it would be awesome to be able to connect via OBD2...
thanks of the useful info.
 

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I'll check it out, it would be awesome to be able to connect via OBD2...
thanks of the useful info.
Look here.

 
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