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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
So after my week away I managed to get some time back on the car today however, it was quite limited:
Where I had left it:
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Gearbox back in and back on its mounts
front suspension removed:
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can see that the front subframe and lower arms etc are back in position

As the front suspension is removed a little comparison pic:
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Still super happy with these and can’t wait to get them on the car. The only thing stopping me is the improved access they afford when not fitted (along with the driveshafts) as there are some other items still to be addressed.

So with limited time I thought I would tackle a few of the jobs that I noticed whilst taking the car apart. Firstly the power steering cap O ring as there was PAS fluid everywhere:
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also cleaned the reservoir and hoses but don’t have a pic.

Next up was fit the cabrio front chassis braces I picked up ages ago. Not sure they assist all that much but I have a front strut brace to go on and these can’t hurt (especially as so easily fitted on the later cars!):
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lastly was the sump gasket which I believe was semi responsible for oil in the bell housing not to mention absolutely everywhere underneath:
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Sump after an hour of cleaning/degreasing (cleaned outside as well). I was surprised by the build up of thick oily crap at the bottom and how hard it was to remove!
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and a nice new gasket to go back:
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Also spent a significant amount of time cleaning stuff around the engine bay and installing all the smaller bits and pieces that have been removed which are all the things that take the time! Should hopefully have a bit more time on it this week so more to come.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 · (Edited)
So today (actually it was yesterday) I have mostly been doing brake and clutch lines:
Swapped the fronts over as wanted to be sure that I could undo the steel ends so old vs new:
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and installed:

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I was actually surprised at how easy everything came apart and ended up being a nice simple and quick job (still have the rears to do so perhaps I have spoken too soon!)
I then set about replacing the clutch line as whilst removing the box I had to cut the slave cylinder off as the line was horribly corroded and the fitting had got stuck in the slave and in my attempt to wiggle it out it split. So set about removing this little lot:
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this was a horrible job as access is crap (especially along the bulkhead) but this allowed this stuff to be fitted:
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And all installed:
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glad that’s all done! As was a massive ball ache.
I had looked at carrying out a repair or just replacing the last section but couldn’t find anything suitable so this seemed like the most sensible route. Although, had I known how much of a pain it was going to be I may have looked a bit harder for a different solution!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 · (Edited)
So a bit of a frustrating day on the car today as hardly anything done! But sorted through the new coolant hoses and ensured I had the correct size clips and marked a few of them so I knew where they went:
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Removed the oil filter:
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it was suitably disgusting!
Cleaned the filter holder/cap as there was a load of old oil gunk in it and installed the new filter ready to go back:
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Removed the oil cooler for inspection and realised it was almost completely blocked with crap (I wonder how many others are blocked?). It took almost an hour of running water through it and gently tapping it until nothing washed out. Here it is having been cleaned:
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I am in two minds about replacing it but it isn’t exactly a cheap part and seems to have reasonable flow through it now......
Lastly I had to buy one of these:
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as I broke the one on the car which was annoying as it was £35 I didn’t need to spend if I had been more careful! And here it is installed:
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hopefully I will have a slightly more productive time on it tomorrow.
 

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Progressing nicely. I hope I don't have replace the clutch line anytime soon.

Silicone hoses do look nice, but they are not good at holding coolant inside... be prepared for a bit of coolant smell after a ride.

I'd go ahead and replace that oil cooler/heat exhanger sooner rather than later. If it had a lot of gunk inside it's probably somewhat corroded inside already, increasing the risk of water and oil mixing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Progressing nicely. I hope I don't have replace the clutch line anytime soon.

Silicone hoses do look nice, but they are not good at holding coolant inside... be prepared for a bit of coolant smell after a ride.

I'd go ahead and replace that oil cooler/heat exhanger sooner rather than later. If it had a lot of gunk inside it's probably somewhat corroded inside already, increasing the risk of water and oil mixing.
Thanks, the clutch line is a massive pain with everything in position, there is just no room for your hands and/or tools. I suspect it would be significantly easier with the plastic bulkhead panels removed. I persevered with them in position and in retrospect I probably should have just taken them out at the start (at the very least the drivers side one)

I have never had an issue in the past with silicone hoses. Although, admittedly I dont think I have ever had a car that had quite so many small individual hoses. I will have to keep an eye on them in use.

I have just found an NRF one for reasonable money (£60) so have ordered it (was looking at £100+ before). I too didnt really trust it and hard to know what was sediment and what was cooler core. Water in oil or oil in water will never end well and would be soul destroying after so much work. I was hesitating as ideally I would go to an air to oil cooler but dont have the cash at the present (have spent what little there was left of the repair/upgrade budget on unforeseen repairs/parts/tools) so spending £100 plus on a cooler when it would be replaced in the near future seems like chucking money away whereas I can just about live with £60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 · (Edited)
Oil filter housing removed and gasket replaced, also cleaned out the inside as there was a fair bit of crap that had collected in the bottom:
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Managed to get the old auxiliary water hoses off after much swearing and worked out what goes where with the silicone replacements:
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and all ready to go back on the car:
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Now just waiting for some parts to turn up to finish off some bits before I can really get everything back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
So have been a bit quiet for a couple of weeks as been ridiculously busy at work and whilst I have done a few small jobs on the car I had been getting bits together for an unexpected issue I had found when I removed the sump:
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so these two bits were floating around in the oiley leftovers and as soon as I found them I knew exactly what they were and exactly what it meant - a lot more work and more unexpected costs!
Anyway now that I had found them I didn’t want to leave it so cracked on and purchased these:
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Which meant I got this lot removed:
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getting the crank pulley off was harder than expected so pulled out the big guns (no pun intended ;)):
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and a close up of the offending item that kicked this all off:
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Actually both guides were incredibly brittle so I am not surprised bits had broken off and whilst not massively worn I do believe they are original so think it was time they were changed.
Also convinced work they needed one of these:
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which is a silly expensive SKF bearing oven. This should make getting the crank pulley back on much easier! (Especially as I dont have access to a cooking oven at work - which is what I would have done to warm it up at home) so just need to get it all back together now….
Lastly fitted the new oil cooler and hoses:
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Discussion Starter · #88 · (Edited)
So here is the timing chain replaced including new guides, tensioner, pulleys and chain and all timed up correctly:
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was a bit of a ball ache but generally it went pretty smoothly. The bearing oven was a revelation and made fitting the lower pulley super easy (although it did need to be 180 degrees C before it would slip over the crank- so took a bit of trial and error from the manuals 150 degrees C!!)
Cleaned up the timing cover and replaced the gasket and oil pump o rings:
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Also bought this little lot:
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as when removed to do the timing chain the old mount had leaked its oil everywhere and could be moved by hand/was completely shot so needed replacement.
old and new:
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have also replaced the lower bolt with a 12.9 cap head as the stupid bolt that was in there (the female torx one) was rusty as you like and the head semi stripped during removal. Hopefully this is a better solution:
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and lastly the super pro insert all fitted:
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Also have the super pro inserts for the gearbox mount that will be fitted at the same time. Hopefully these bushes assist in keeping the mounts in good condition.
 

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Nice work.
Is there enough thread on the new bolt to tighten into the engine mount?
I found those mounts inserts to be truly awful. Interested to see how you find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Nice work.
Is there enough thread on the new bolt to tighten into the engine mount?
I found those mounts inserts to be truly awful. Interested to see how you find it.
Thanks (y)
Going by the rust mark on the old bolt (which is where I assume it threaded up to) there is still an additional 3 to 4 mm so think it will be fine. However, I still have the temporary mount in position from doing the timing chain so can’t currently confirm. Will hopefully trial fit tomorrow.

Assume that was awful from a vibration standpoint?
 

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Thanks (y)
Going by the rust mark on the old bolt (which is where I assume it threaded up to) there is still an additional 3 to 4 mm so think it will be fine. However, I still have the temporary mount in position from doing the timing chain so can’t currently confirm. Will hopefully trial fit tomorrow.

Assume that was awful from a vibration standpoint?
Yes mate vibration. It might be different with you also fitting a new mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Yes mate vibration. It might be different with you also fitting a new mount.
Will be a while off checking but will be interesting to see once it’s up and running.

So timing cover/oil pump installed:
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fitted a Alta tensioner stop:
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and got all the aux belt bits back on:
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which meant that the mount could be refitted:
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and the new bolt worked perfectly:
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don’t think it goes into the body of the mount quite as much as the original (perhaps 4mm less due to the washer - it’s an extra thick one) but otherwise all is good and it’s significantly easier to use/install.
 

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That Alta tensioner stop is only going to rattle, and in the long run it'll ruin the damper. Sadly no-one makes a cable type stopper like they have on the Sprintex tensioner.


Generally it's a good idea to stay away from Alta products... I still have one on my car, because I can't get it off; the aerial. It's properly fused on. Very poor reception, but small, and I usually listen to Spotify...
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
That Alta tensioner stop is only going to rattle, and in the long run it'll ruin the damper. Sadly no-one makes a cable type stopper like they have on the Sprintex tensioner.


Generally it's a good idea to stay away from Alta products... I still have one on my car, because I can't get it off; the aerial. It's properly fused on. Very poor reception, but small, and I usually listen to Spotify...
Thanks for this, when I was fitting it I was also concerned that it didnt really stay in place very well and seemed to ever so slightly restrict the damper (added some very slight friction) but also didnt want to run without it. Perhaps I will look for/make something else - I have just looked up the Sprintex conversion and tensioner (GPR V2 tensioner system) and this seems like a much better way of doing it! Pretty sure I have some stainless wire floating around here somewhere.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 · (Edited)
So in a real put your money where your mouth is moment I went and made my own tensioner stop and pretty much went with what companies had been fitting to the Sprintex conversion (big thanks to JKo for pointing me in this direction (y)) so here it is:
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Fully extended dimensions are the same as the Alta stop so it should work exactly the same. It has been tested (as was having some other stuff done through work) and it has a SWL of 64kgs and the wire has a breaking strain of something ridiculous like 470kgs so think it should have no trouble dealing with the spring tension. Anyways here it is trial fitted to the old tensioner:
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Along with the Alta for comparison:
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I also had to get some slightly longer bolts to account for the wire and slings:
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and think the originals are 10.9s so went with this again just in case:
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just need to get it on the car now and hope it doesn’t cause any problems that I haven’t thought about but hopefully this solves all of the issues of the Alta version whilst still providing the protection…..
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
So set about getting the new tensioner stop fitted to the car so thought it was best to remove it and mess about with it on the bench:
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And some other views showing clearance:
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this was the second time it had been put together as decided it was best to loctite the bolts in with this stuff:
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and finally back on the car:
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
So a few more jobs done including fitting the auxiliary coolant hoses:
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Removed this little lot:
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and replaced with these:
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inner rod ends were a pain in the backside and meant I had to buy a 34mm spanner - I have access to a 32 and a 36 but no 34:
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next to an 11mm for size reference - it’s a fairly chunky thing!
Lastly got these:
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now that all the stuff above is fitted I should be able to get the front suspension and brakes fitted and get it back on its wheels.
 
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