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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
It’s been a frustrating few weeks with achingly slow progress on the car! Firstly went to fit the belt with the new AC delete pulley and I could not get the belt to fit for love nor money. Checked against the original and the delete pulley was bigger by 5mm:
104694

104695

also think it moved slightly outboard but still this meant I needed a longer belt or a rethink. Then whilst looking for/ investigating a longer belt I came across a few that had deleted this pulley all together. So decided this was the way to go. So short belt purchased and fitted:
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now I realise there are some concerns about belt slip as belt doesn’t wrap the SC pulley as much as it would in the original setup but willing to give this a try and see how it goes.
Have also been spending time refitting all the small items like lower engine mount, heat shields, brackets etc and refilled the gearbox oil:
104698

that little draper pump made that job particularly easy and would recommend. (Having made a mess on previous cars trying to get gearbox oil into a filler at some ridiculous angle or with some Heath Robinson type hose contraption)
Also purchased a slightly worse for wear Airtec and gave it a bit of a refresh unfortunately I appear to have deleted all of the photos of the work done to it but it now looks decent enough:
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as you can see from the above pic just the rad and front panel to fit and fill the last of the fluids but feels pretty close to starting……
Lastly, finally got round to fitting the front wheels over the brakes:
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😍😍
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Still struggling with finding time for the car but a few bits done here and there that now kind of add up to an update:

So, back when I removed the front end I happened to notice that one of the pretend bumper vents that mounts into the plastic front panel had been botched into position:
Bicycle part Rim Gas Auto part Machine

when I looked a little further into it there was also a little more damage:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive wheel system Gas

whilst not the end of the world I wasn’t completely happy putting this back on the car so bought a new pattern part:
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Tints and shades

I also took the opportunity to buy a new rad which meant splitting the old rad and fan and what should I find but a knackered resistor - it pretty much fell apart when I touched it and the wires just came away from the unit:
Circuit component Automotive lighting Electronic engineering Gas Cable

Now all fitted back to the car along with the crash bar etc:
Vehicle Car Grille Automotive tire Hood

I have some proper 3D printed brake cooling ducts also fitted in this pic - more to come on these soon. But for now it is very close to being started - just a few little jobs to do……
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 · (Edited)
Nice. So those ducts fit the Aero bumper fog light locations? Do you have the 3D drawings for them?
Yes, they fit the aero bumper fog light locations
I dont as I ended up buying a set (started designing some but still trying to learn Fusion 360 - its just taking forever!) here is the link to what I bought:
JDH Customs R53 Mini Cooper S Brake cooling ducts (pair) | eBay
I will get around to designing something eventually but time isnt on my side at the moment!

Anyways some better pictures of the ducts:
Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Alloy wheel

and modified to lose the centre section:
Automotive tire Camera lens Motor vehicle Gas Rim

If you look at where this will be pointing in relation to the tyre it should be a straight shot to the brake caliper. Obviously still need to drill a hole in the splash guard and extend the duct to meet up but you get the general idea This is also roughly how the brake cooling ducts are/operate on the R56.

Managed to get the whole of the front end back together so it now looks like this:
Grille Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting

Whilst this still isnt 100% as still have to bleed the clutch, bleed the brakes and sort out some minor bits underneath it is mostly there. So much so that I added this:
Liquid Bottle Glass bottle Fluid Plastic bottle

and the car started first time. Super happy with that! It Idles nicely and all seems to work which is great as its always a bit of a tense time after so much work has taken place. Unfortunately it couldnt be driven due to no brakes or clutch which brings me onto removing this little lot:
Hood Automotive tire Wood Automotive lighting Twig

Good job to as bushes were shot:
Automotive tire Wood Gas Bumper Automotive wheel system

Swapped the ARB for an adjustable whiteline one:
Rectangle Asphalt Bumper Road surface Composite material

Fitted new control arms:
Sports equipment Font Tints and shades Composite material Auto part

Which left it looking like this:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Bicycle part

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim Locking hubs

Still need to sort out brake lines and handbrake cables but now seem to be really close to it actually being back on the road. Hopefully I can keep finding the time over the next week or two to get the rear end completed and finish the last few little jobs........
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
So had these floating around for a little while:
Tool Hand tool Garden tool Gas Weeder

Finally time to get them fitted along with the brake lines, handbrake cables and pads:
Wheel Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Tire

Locking hubs Automotive tire Vehicle brake Automotive lighting Alloy wheel

Also added some girth to the ABS sensors to make them snug within the R56 arms:
Air gun Gun barrel Trigger Tints and shades Shotgun

and got them fitted so this meant that the wheel could go back on and car could be dropped back to the floor:
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Locking hubs

A few issues encountered - mostly to do with ABS cables and not being quite long enough for the R56 arms (sensor location is 20 or so mm further outboard than standard R53) not the end of the world but locating grommet doesnt sit in its locator on the back of the shock now. Not sure what to do about this at the moment but certainly something to revisit. Also hand brake cables sit a little too close to the lower arm bolt - not sure if this will rattle or be no problem so will have to wait and see.

So stuff left to do: Front pads to fit, calipers to torque up, Front ABS sensors to connect up and then brakes and clutch need to be bled so these are jobs for next week. Also have the bits to carry out my own alignment (or at least attempt) so might just get to this by the end of the week.......
 

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Those droplinks look posh. Not exactly a colour match tho ;) Still way better than the gold coloured massive Whiteline ones (which I painted black with anti-chip coating)...

Be sure to check that the R56 arm doesn't hit the fuel filler tube/hose when the suspension moves up. I shortened the hose on mine by about 10mm just to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Those droplinks look posh. Not exactly a colour match tho ;) Still way better than the gold coloured massive Whiteline ones (which I painted black with anti-chip coating)...

Be sure to check that the R56 arm doesn't hit the fuel filler tube/hose when the suspension moves up. I shortened the hose on mine by about 10mm just to be sure.
Haha, no not quite a colour match, kinda wish I had got black now. Really didnt want the whiteline ones! Although I reckon the covered/enclosed balljoint will last significantly longer than the Lohen ones....

This was one of the other things I needed to look into further but hadnt listed. It runs very close to the filler pipe (2 or 3mm) so suspect I will end up doing what you have done. I assume this was removed from the filler cap end and is relatively easy to do?
 

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Baguette
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Haha, no not quite a colour match, kinda wish I had got black now. Really didnt want the whiteline ones! Although I reckon the covered/enclosed balljoint will last significantly longer than the Lohen ones....
Yeah, they look like they will need some cleaning and greasing up regularly. I kinda forgot to do that on the Kavs RCA's ball joints after the first couple of years, and they ended up being completely seized up on the other end, and falling out of the socket on the other... but they still lasted a good 7 years 😄


This was one of the other things I needed to look into further but hadnt listed. It runs very close to the filler pipe (2 or 3mm) so suspect I will end up doing what you have done. I assume this was removed from the filler cap end and is relatively easy to do?
Yup, there was a regular worm clamp on the filler cap end. And a grounding strap of some sort. Then you just pull the hose down. I used a simple hose cutter tool to shorten it. Of course you need to remove the fender liner first, that's probably the hardest part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 · (Edited)
So, I have been a bit quiet on here/on the car recently and apart from Christmas, new year and COVID getting in the way I have had a horrible time bleeding brakes:

first of all I had got this stuff to get started:
Liquid Bottle Drinkware Fluid Road surface

feeling pretty good about the whole thing I got started. Seemed to get the air out super easy but as it was my first time using a pressurised brake bleeder of this type i smiled to myself smugly and thought how clever I had been. I got in the car pushed the pedal and……. Still feels like air in the system. Repeat the process…… still feels like air in the system. Several more times and a significant amount more fluid than pictured above and still feels like air in the system.
Then I remembered reading about the ABS module requiring bleeding if the system had gone dry. So ordered a hand held code reader/ ABS reader to activate the pump and solenoids:
Telephony Communication Device Mobile phone Gadget Portable communications device

also more fluid and a better catch bottle:
Automotive tire Drink Fluid Liquid Paint

went through the process again including activating the pump/solenoids got some more air out and assumed I had cracked it……nope pedal still feels crap! Also start to notice that pedal starts sinking to the floor when pressed hard. Look under the car to find that both rear calipers are leaking from the hose union. So removed, cleaned, and put back ensuring they are fully tight then re-bleed again thinking that surely I have it this time……nope! Pedal still feels crap and is even worse with the car running. So after checking everything over (booster, vac hoses, cap etc etc) and bleeding twice more I have come to the conclusion that the master cylinder is knackered. So have ordered a new one which will hopefully be here next week and fingers crossed that solves the issue. As Christ knows how many hours I have wasted so far on what should have been a 2 hour job!
In slightly better news I purchased this:
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Car Vehicle

And one of these:
Blue Gesture Art Font Paper

Font Paper Room Electric blue Paper product

Not being a massive fan of the original Coolerworx gear knob I changed it for this black Quaife type one:
Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Gas Tints and shades Cylinder

and promptly got it fitted:
Grey Wall Floor Flooring Wood

also got some new genuine shift cables as the existing ones aren’t in the best condition:
Road surface Asphalt Grey Tar Wood

hopefully more to come on these bits soon along with working brakes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
So after many, many more hours bleeding the brakes I started thinking I had some more serious issues which pointed towards bad seals in the master cyclinder so replaced the master cyclinder (this is the old one):
Household hardware Fluid Fixture Material property Gas

I then went through the whole process again several times to ensure that I wasnt losing my marbles or missing something silly:
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire

After all that pedal still felt like crap and with the engine running the pedal pretty much went to the floor. Feeling like I wished I had never started I posted on the forum the issues I was having and after trying several of the recommendations just driving the car a little bit seemed to significantly improve the pedal feel and the car did actually stop. So a little more driving will hopefully see some more improvements and once thats done perhaps one further bleed to ensure there is no air.

So with the car needing to be driven some other things to sort out! Starting with the alignment. After looking around online and watching a few videos I decided I would have a go at doing it myself using the string line method as seen here:

So after watching the video several times I cracked on:
Car Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle

Car is up on the blocks so I can get underneath and make adjustments with weight on the wheels and so I dont have to reset everything everytime I jack the car up. This took a little bit of setup time and some backwards and forwards to get everything centered and square but was all pretty straightforward.
Took the first set of measurements:
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Crankset Motor vehicle

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Light

and ended up with this:
Font Gas Parallel Space Electrical supply

not miles out but not great either (the centre measurement was just for my piece of mind) so set up about adjusting and rechecking and adjusting again and ended up here:
Rectangle Handwriting Wood Font Parallel

So slight toe in at the rear with 1.5 degree neg camber and straight (no toe in or out) at the front with 1 degree negative camber. The front right camber is still a little off (I didnt end up adjusting it) as I dont have great access to the top mount adjustment (bolts are partially hidden as usual!), its not a million miles out, I ran out of time and I really want to drive the car and then recheck everything anyway so will see how it settles and adjust after that.

All in it was a surprisingly simple process and whilst I still might have this checked professionally (more for my own piece of mind than anything and because it was my first time doing this and would be good to know how accurate I have been) its certainly something I would do again - even if its just so the car drives relatively straight before having it done professionally. I would say all in it probably took 3 to 4 hours but reckon it would be significantly quicker next time.

Hopefully more to come soon
 

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You could try driving around on a loose surface like gravel and braking and accelerating a few times to get the ABS/Traction control pump to kick in. It always used to do the trick with my old 200sx when I was bleeding brakes.

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Managed to get the coolerworx fitted. Actually was more straightforward than I was expecting:
Old vs new:
Light Motor vehicle Automotive tire Road surface Asphalt

and a closer look at why I changed the cables:
Automotive tire Gas Wood Auto part Font

and with it fitted:
Vehicle Gear shift Motor vehicle Automotive design Gauge

for the next couple of days I will be finishing lots of bits and pieces and trying to get the car for its MOT before the end of the week so all being well it will be back on the road for the weekend......
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 · (Edited)
Lovely that.
Epic build so far and looking lovely :)
Great work!
Thanks guys (y)

So have spent quite a lot of time on it the last few days getting lots of bits and pieces finished off and getting it ready for its MOT. This included shortening the fuel hose, a nut and bolt torque check, refit heatshields and exhaust, Normal pre MOT checks so lights (one lamp replaced), washers etc and cleared all of the fault codes for ABS and EML. So here it is at the centre:
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tire

and thankfully a pass with no advisories:
Receipt Font Rectangle Material property Sleeve

Mileage variation is not because I have driven 30k miles in the last year (it hasnt moved a wheel in 12 months) but due to the clock change. Actual mileage is 92200ish

Now time to put some miles on it and see how it performs.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 · (Edited)
After all the work done and getting through the MOT the car had it’s first proper test of a 140 mile round trip to the Kent coast. Within the first 20 miles the bugger started messing about and pretty much cut out on some dual carriageway and threw up the EML - Balls!
I had the foresight to take the code reader and after plugging in it was showing P0107 which is the MAP sensor. So armed with the info I checked the 2 MAP sensors to ensure they were connected and there was nothing obvious wrong but both seemed fine. So cleared the codes and set off again. Seemed ok for another 10 miles then went again. Seemed to be worse under constant throttle and over 3k rpm. Limped on to the next services and this time I had the P0107 code again but also had P1688.
Output device Communication Device Gadget Audio equipment Display device

Upon looking this code up on the internet it would seem like this points to a faulty crank damper (one of the few things I didn’t replace during the rebuild as it looked in good condition). Being pretty sure I couldn’t fix it at the services I turned round and started to head back to home but rather than going on the motorway I went on the A roads and carefully limped it back.
With another long journey planned for this week (Cornwall) I managed to locate a replacement relatively locally and set about getting the crank damper changed over
Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Wood

whilst it generally looked ok when you tapped the old one (left) with a hammer there was a ringing sound whereas the new one was more of a dull thud. There also felt like there was the tiniest amount of play between the front (crank boss) and back (belt drive) when tapped with the hammer. Feeling pretty sure that this was definitely the issue I fitted the new one and got everything back together.
Restarted the car and initially it seemed fine but then it started to struggle to rev and wasn’t running right. It threw up another P1070 code for the MAP sensor. Deciding I wasn’t going to get that sorted out/didn’t really have time to investigate I promptly gave up and have gone to Cornwall without it. So more investigation required but pretty disappointed with it at the moment. Hopefully, I feel better about the car and getting it sorted once home….
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)
So it’s been a little while since I have done anything on the car. To be honest after it pissed about on the first drive I lost a little love for it. Also, after a load of prep work (painting and sorting out a shed load of small jobs) I have put my house on the market, managed to get it sold in the first week and then got into a bit of a panic about finding somewhere to move to! So the last few months have been ridiculously hectic as we viewed a load of houses and sorted out all that stuff. Will hopefully be moving in the next couple of months. On top of this I have been busy with family and been riding my bike(s) in the great weather.
Anyways, back to the car…. With the last few issues being around one of the Map sensors I decided it was best to replace them both so 2 new ones were ordered and fitted:
Packing materials Rectangle Packaging and labeling Electric blue Plastic

i also picked up one of these:
Bicycle part Automotive exhaust Nickel Rim Gas

along with new gaskets and bolts:
Rectangle Transparency Pattern Wood Hardwood

Old and new:
Gesture Font Sculpture Art Jewellery

I also fitted 2 new NGK lambda sensors to ensure these were fully operational and make sure the car was running as good as it could.
Also whilst fitting this little lot I thought I would add an OMP lower brace:
Hood Automotive exterior Wing Fashion accessory Bumper

and changed the bonnet vent so from this:
Car Automotive parking light Vehicle Land vehicle Grille

To this:
Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle Vehicle Vehicle registration plate

Think this ties in all the other black items around the car and original vent was loose due to broken fixings so needed to do something.

Was hoping to make my way to Brighton for the London to Brighton Mini run (won’t be part of it officially) so should be a good test for the car if I take it. Let’s see……
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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kind of wanted to do the L2B, forgot to transfer the old cancelled run ticket in time apparently, they wouldn't help and I binned the idea, would have gone in the classic

you selling the stock manifold?
 
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