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94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
bit more done today:
fuel filter replaced so this little lot removed and as expected it was suitably filthy:

also removed the rear wiper and chrome handle and replaced the badge so from this:

To this:

just gearing up for a big push to get all of the suspension replaced along with gearbox, clutch and carry out a supercharger service. I am just awaiting a couple more parts and we should be ready to get started (hopefully next week) but there’s good few hours work in that lot and I’m supposed to be driving it to Wales the week after so here’s hoping it all goes smoothly and I haven’t forgotten anything!!!

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
With trying to get everything ready for next week and to ensure that I have all of the parts I need, that they fit and are no issues I did a quick build up of the suspension and brake parts:
first of all wheel studs fitted:

Then everything else:

And the back:

Also did the rear as the second/replacement rear arm turned up so bearings and wheel studs first:

And the other bits:

Super happy with this little lot and cant wait to get it all on the car now!!

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
So satisfying and therapeutic.
Indeed, makes the many hours to get to this stage worthwhile

Be great to hear how you get on with the godspeed discs, looking to have them as my next pair up front and I have the same calipers as you.
Thanks, I have Godspeed discs on my R56 JCW (slotted not C hook) that obviously use the same caliper type and have been really happy with them - good corrosion resistance and good wear characteristics plus they are super value.

I really wanted the Reyland 2 piece discs but couldn’t get the budget to stretch to them (think they were 3 times the price) perhaps this will be an upgrade for the future and lose some unsprung weight.

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Love where this is all heading mate, keep up the great work 👍👍👍🤜🤛
Thanks very much (y)

A few more bits done:
Rear arm front mounts finished and bushes fitted:


Also new gearbox seals fitted and gearbox cleaned apologies for the blurry pic!:


Can just about see one of the new seals fitted above. Gearbox was filthy in this section previously and suspect the car it was removed from had a leaking rear seal as was completely covered in oily crap and it took forever to clean with all of the webbing and tiny corners!

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
More being done to the car but everything seems to be taking forever for one reason or another - but mostly due to rusted fixings!

Anyways started at the top with the cam cover gasket and had purchased this kit from Orranje:

As the fixings were looking particulalrly manky:


Gasket replaced (this is the old one - wasnt leaking terribly but was rather brittle):

and all back together including a good clean:

Whilst checking the torque settings for the cam cover bolts I came across the tightening sequence in the manual (by accident) was surprised to find one for a relatively low torque, low pressure, thick gasket part - it even recommended a 2 stage torque setting:

Replaced the spark plugs - Still on BMW plugs which is a little concerning as hadnt been serviced at BMW for quite a few years!

Also removed the aux belt as condition wasnt the best:

And lastly in service mode with supercharger removed ready for its service and the clutch change along with a load of other bits to be replaced so more to come soon:

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
You're absolutely ploughing through this :cool:
Thanks, hopefully can keep it up!

so few other bits done whilst car is this apart starting with the Lower gearbox mount:

Engine block water pump spigot o-ring had seen better days:


and all cleaned ready to go back:

Crank sensor o-ring replaced as had been leaking quite badly (pic was After an hour of cleaning the gritty oily crap off!):



also replacement tensioner and idler:

including poly bushed damper:

lots of other bits done so more coming soon

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
So you're not worried about putting stainless bolts on an aluminium cylinder head?
No, not really, I greased the threads as they were installed as a precaution but I don't suspect the head is made of pure aluminium so suspect the issue of galvanic corrosion will be minimal especially in fasteners with such low torque values. I also suspect that I will have these off and back on again at relatively regular intervals during my ownership so again I am not massively concerned.

1,011 Posts
Did you know that the sleeves come off the original rocker cover bolts very easily, without cutting the bolt?

  1. Remove the rubber ring and hold the sleeve firmly in a set of vice/mole grips with the bolt hanging downwards.
  2. Place the grips on a hard surface like the edge of a workbench (not your brand new dining room table) so the bolt hangs freely over the edge.
  3. Sharply hit the end of the bolt with a hammer and it will pop out of the sleeve.

You can then clean up the sleeves to use with your new bolts and rubber rings.

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
Did you know that the sleeves come off the original rocker cover bolts very easily, without cutting the bolt?
I was going to do this until I found the kit from Orranje and as I needed to replace the bolts anyway (they were in horrible condition and so rusty I had to bang a smaller socket on to remove) it made sense to buy the kit for the bolts and the sleeves are a nice bonus. On top of that they will never rust/look crappy again.

so today’s job was supercharger inspection:



actually everything is in surprisingly good condition! Carried out an oil change anyway:

Left side is the snout oil which is a little grubby but overall there was plenty of oil in both sides which was great news.
Replaced the drive coupler (preventative rather than any issue):

which meant I needed to use this stuff between the case and snout:

also replaced the bypass valve with one upgraded by 1320 so here it is ready to go back on the car along with a cleaned inlet pipe:
Lastly have a new water pump to go back on:

so hopefully don’t need to worry about any of these parts for a significant amount of time.
Lots still to come

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
Nice work (y)
Thanks :cool:

on to the clutch replacement:
Subframe removed:

along with the gearbox:

rear crank seal had definitely been leaking going by the amount of oil in here!

Clutch removed:

Clutch is definitely passed its best and contaminated by the looks of it
And all removed ready for the crank seal replacement:

seal out:

New clutch (hybrid type - paddle on one side and uprated normal on the other) and TTV single mass lightweight flywheel:


and all mounted ready for the box:
Really struggling for time this week and everything takes far longer than expected! I am really not sure I am going to have it back together in time for Wales on Saturday the way it’s going. Especially considering how little time I have on the car between now and then and how much is left to do.......

Premium Member
499 Posts
Looks really good! I saw that issue you had with the alloy trailing arm. Something to be aware of with the alloy trailing arms is that the threads for the inner end as well as the lower mount for the shock absorber will eventually strip.

The holes aren't tapped. In a bid to save on manufacturing cost the bolts are self tapping from the factory and will only stand being removed and refitted around 3-4 times before the thread gives up.

You may have to consider a helicoil at some point if you end up changing changing coilovers more than once. This is the most common fix although I have seen people use thread inserts or even a longer bolt with a nut on the end.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 · (Edited)
Dude, you've probably done more in 3 months than I have on mine in 8 years. 😄
Haha, there has been a fair bit been done now. Just think I massively underestimated how long it would take and overestimated how much time I would have. (More on this in a minute)
Looks really good! I saw that issue you had with the alloy trailing arm. Something to be aware of with the alloy trailing arms is that the threads for the inner end as well as the lower mount for the shock absorber will eventually strip.
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
I knew that it was always a risk and guess we will see how they hold up. It’s a pretty crappy design and will become more of an issue as the r56’s get older as well.

So I didn’t get it ready for Wales today:(
I started the day with a hell of a lot to do and everything needed to go perfectly if I was to have any chance as was super tight on time. First job was refit the gearbox and this is where it all went wrong! 2 and a half hours later (instead of 30mins or so if it had gone smoothly) it finally slotted home. Unfortunately I have no pictures but it isn’t the most exciting of views. On the bright side it is now refitted and once I’m back next weekend it should be back on its wheels
So on to today’s things that did go ok:
Prep subframe:

so lower arms fitted and front ARB bushes replaced:

also replaced the rack mount bush:

I did get this all refitted but it was the last thing completed and was in a rush to leave so will have to update with pics later.

Also replaced the thermostat (new on left):

There was nothing wrong with the original but know it can fail so whilst I had decent access it seemed silly to not change it.

Whilst it has been this dismantled I have also noted some other areas/parts that require some work going forward so will look to get the bits for these over the next few weeks. I am a bit sad to be having a week away from it as reckon I could get it up and running again in a few hours but also looking forward to having some time away.

Hopefully a more significant update in a week
61 - 80 of 122 Posts