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This mod was developed by Andy from Ross-Tech.com...

Details to follow:



The brass vacuum nipple on the downstream side of the BPV is definitely the hardest part to get to. For easiest VGS installation, I'd recommend the following procedure:

ALPHA METHOD

1) Disconnect the short rubber vacuum hose from the diaphragm of the bypass valve, but leave it attached to the lower brass vacuum nipple. Cap off the now-loose end of that hose.

2) Disconnect the (hard plastic with rubber caps on each end) vacuum line from the intake manifold but leave it attached to the fuel pressure regulator.

3) Install a tee in the now-loose end of that vacuum line.

4) Install a short length of vacuum hose between the tee and the nipple on the intake manifold.

5) Intall a long piece of vacuum hose between the remaining branch on the tee and the diaphragm of the bypass valve.

6) Make sure everything is snug and that all your tools are accounted for.

7) Enjoy.

Using the above method, it should be possible (in fact it's definitely possible) to install the VGS without removing the intercooler.

OMEGA METHOD

Last night, I installed the VGS in an '05 MCS and took pics along the way. I removed the intercooler for easier access and better pics.

Tools required:
T30 Torx screwdriver
Scissors or pliers with cutting tool
Curved needlenose pliers (optional)
MINI-specific scan tool (optional)

Materials required:
5/32" x 5/32" x 5/32" tee
3 feet of 5/32" ID (5/16" OD) rubber vacuum line
One screw that snugly screws into the vacuum line
Zip tie
Good beer (no Budweiser!)



1) Remove the bolts for the IC cover:


2) Loosen but do not remove all four of the T30 Torx bolts for the IC boots:


3) Push the smaller IC boot as far to the right as possible and pull the IC toward the windshield and slightly upwards to remove it:



4) Locate the Bypass Valve (BPV) ... it is the black cylinder in the center top of this pic:


5) Grasp the bypass line and push it toward the front of the car to remove it from the BPV:


6) Insert a snug-fitting screw into the stock bypass line to cap it off:


7) Slide your long VGS line onto the BPV nipple in the same way you removed the stock one:


8) Locate the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) in the fuel rail on top of the intake manifold (the silver cylinder in the center top of this pic) and note the rubber elbow attached underneath:


9) Reach under the FPR and push the rubber elbow downwards to remove it from the FPR nipple:


10) Slide one end of the small new vacuum hose (about 8") upwards onto the FPR nipple and make sure the other end of the small new hose is accessible:


11) Attach the rubber elbow (stock FPR hose) to one end of the tee and the loose end of the new short hose to another end of the tee:


12) Neatly run the long new hose from the BPV to the tee location and attach the loose end of that hose to the tee and zip-tie the tee in place:


13) Inspect your work and make sure all connections are snug and that all of your tools are accounted for:


14) Reinstall the IC and tighten all of the bolts on the rubber boots, making sure to run your fingers behind the IC to make sure all of the boots are in place before starting the car:


15) Start car, listen for vacuum leaks, make sure the idle is stable and scan for fault codes:


16) Enjoy. :thumbup1:

What are peoples thoughts?
 
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As the chart shows, the boost is delivered much smoother (this is I think due to constant vacuum applied to the bypass valve which doesn't work open-close-open all the time but stays closed most of the time).
I will try to find a hose in the garage and mod it today.

(think this is in wrong section anyway, since it applies to R53 MCS..)
 

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I have try this but I didn't like it.
When you release the throttle at aprox 4000 rpm it's very big jerk for example. And also you can feel a little "lag" when you push the throttle.

But some people like it so it's worth to try. Isn't an expensive mod.
 

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In the name of Fun
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hmm - interesting . Might give it a go to see as it's simple to do . Interested to see if throttle might get better
 

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In the name of Fun
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The result looks pretty similar to a Modified Bypass Valve.
don't they just make sure it snaps shut on them so that you get more of what Fisher meant - jerks when let off throttle ? This sounds like it keeps it open a bit doesn't it ?

I'm clutching at straws as regards my throttle as want to make sure it's not mechanical before re-map
 

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don't they just make sure it snaps shut on them so that you get more of what Fisher meant - jerks when let off throttle ? This sounds like it keeps it open a bit doesn't it ?

I'm clutching at straws as regards my throttle as want to make sure it's not mechanical before re-map
Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve

The Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve is a re-worked brand new OEM valve that is modified to eliminate the "Yo-Yo" in early year ('02-'04) Cooper S's, but is available for all year Cooper S's. This BPV uses a stiffer return spring, resulting in quicker boost generation, and thus quicker throttle response and transitions. Most cars see about 1psi The butterfly assembly is also adjusted to close fully, allowing for maximum boost. Perfect for the aggressive driver or racer. Expect a very minor loss in fuel economy, and a great improvement in throttle resolution and smoothness.

Every valve comes with full how-to instructions with great photos. Easy to install in about an hour.

No core charge.
NEW! All DT bypass valves come with new clamps for the intake tube.


See here:

Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve - Detroit Tuned

I did notice a more prompt response on mine, and yes, just like Fisher said, when you release the throttle in the power zone you get shaken, as it gets pretty much rougher than the OEM one. I don't regret having put one in my car.
 

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In the name of Fun
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I looked at getting one - may still do - but couldn't see how to get it from that site as it kept asking which state I live in and i don't !!
 

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MINI!
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God this is old!! I thought the theory was good and it should reduce lag and BPV closing pressure but will be more of an off and on switch. I didnt like the idea of the BPV diaphram seeing -10psi to 17psi of pressure instead of the upto -10psi to 0psi. Not the same as a modified bypass valve. A modified bypass valve you are changing the spring rate to over come the vacuum at higher vacuum and so getting the boost on quicker with less flutter as the SC causes a vacuum surge as it pressurises the inlet.
 

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Before anyone says it yes, an almighty thread resurrection here but...

I was looking through some stuff to do with fitting boost gauges, even though I already have one, and stumbled across this mod on NAM, but couldnt make heads or tails of the technobable they chat on there. Anyway the only info I could find out about VGS on here was this thread

Have many people done this to their cars and is it worthwhile doing?

I already have an uprated bypass valve from MC so wondering if it is worth spending the time to do this as well
 

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Dead One
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When you release the throttle at aprox 4000 rpm it's very big jerk for example.
I've had this for ages on mine and agree with what Fisher said, it does make the transition from on boosted throttle to off throttle very snappy and jerky, but I don't mind it.

I have it piped in to the fuel pressure regulator and also have a boost sensor piped from there. I used Samco silicon hose and cable ties so shouldn't need to worry about a hose deforming under pressure or popping off.
 

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Hmm was having issues with boost loss on setup so did this mod and hey presto lost 2 psi more

Ps holy thread revolution
 

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Chop it
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Its the correct place to take a boost valve from but not the correct place to connect the bypass into the system as the idea of the valve is to release the boost prior to the blower. With this system it will cause a very small lag, pressurise the bpv and there is a small chance of increased heat in the system

Just not ideal
 

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Finally is it worth?? What's the positive and negative results doing the mod?
I havne't read through this entire thread......but from what I have heard from people that have done it, it's jerky when getting on and off boost....and can tent to make the SC run hotter, and increase your IAT's. I don't see any real benefit....
 

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Fffuuuuuuu!
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I havne't read through this entire thread......but from what I have heard from people that have done it, it's jerky when getting on and off boost....and can tent to make the SC run hotter, and increase your IAT's. I don't see any real benefit....
Not that I've noticed. Yes, the boost is a little bit more on / off, but I prefer it that way. IAT's haven't increased by anything noticeable.
 

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I'm actually gonna have another look at this but with the addition of a vacuum distribution block same as I used to use for the ITB's on my R1, and S1600 saxo

Hopefully it will stabilise the vacuum and help with the on off feel but at the same time give the stronger register that helps open and close the bypass plate
 
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