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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had a customer agree to buy a final drive conversion a week or so ago, the next day he was in an event in the car and it suffered some damage resulting in a broken donor gearbox, so he came back to me and asked what I have, long and short of it I agreed to remove the one I'd just fitted into my car complete with a Quaife so he's had that, ready to go,

then a couple of days later he added the top end as well, so that marks the end of the last five years tuning cycle with that head, max achieved 252.7 at the wheels, and it's no more....boohoo馃槀

so....

car is now in bits to liberate stuff,

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parts are off and due to be collected for use in a Northern Ireland hill climb car,

Decisions....

I've been talking about letting this car go now and again,

I've also been saying I'd recheck the motor at a 10k interval which passed about 3k ago, as it hasn't seen the track since April '19 other than ~40 mins June 14th this year, it didn't really matter much,

taking the head off revealed a broken front chain guide which is recent, it also revealed a mark on the pin side of bore 3 clutch side,
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I can feel this with my finger so no point in honing, if I'd done the 10k check as I intended originally it might have been less and saveable, instead it's destined for a bore or sleeving back.

the block is so worth saving, there is just zero corrosion in the coolant galleries from using OEM coolant and that alone makes it better than most, no real scaling either so it's a keeper imo,

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there was a drip on one of the sump bolts, previously there has only been a light sweat at the bottom left of the timing cover or top of sump by that corner which I've suspected was the timing cover more than the sump, it never had the chance to get wet as I brake cleaner it off now and again but haven't for a few months and did use it on track in June briefly. The timing cover would have come off anyway to recover the guide debris and access the chain, so that would be a passive repair, with the mark there though it's all coming apart anyway, so we start again.

while the oil pump is off I'll recheck the rotors and the oil gallery for the outer rotor again, rotors were new @49.5k,

the box has been swapped several times this year, flywheel off every time to check rear main and always dry, same seal since end of 2017. Now the last time the box was swapped I didn't like the wear that had suddenly appeared on the ring gear and didn't have a spare, so I took off the GTT flywheel and refitted a DMF. It soon reminded me what the alloy flywheel does for this car, so I've not really enjoyed having the heavy old lump back on and it was noticeable on track for sure in June. Anyway, point is, that on removal of the DMF this time, the rear main had started to leak. This to me says everything about the weight affect on the back of the crank and the affect on balance probably. I can't prove much but the car has been bone dry for close to five years with no DMF and as soon as one is restored it leaks. I've had plenty of these motors apart and one consistent wear point on them is the No.5 main bearing, right in front of the DMF, so again imo reflecting weight and potential for it to be off balance, speculative it may be, but these days I simply don't like these motors on a DMF. Needless to say I have a new ring gear and the alloy flywheel would be going back on asap.

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this shows the tooth profile accuracy of the GTT flywheels, it's pretty much identical to OEM, just a narrower gear.

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and gear installed, I did also put a friction surface kit into stock but it's not required just yet, I'll add another gear to it for later, I also added another complete flywheel and spare Helix sprung discs.

now with the motor out and coming apart, next out were the pistons with my H rods, no damage on the pistons which are still stock with original rings @ 63k, no play in small ends, just the usual skirt markings which considering this motor has been run hard on track and has a redline of 8160rpm since Sep 20, plus has been dragged a fair bit higher due to some miss shifts at Curborough I have to say I'm quite pleased to see it, so these will go again as far as I'm concerned,

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what you can see in the background on the rod upper shell is a wear spot consistent across all four, these are King Race shells fitted ~13k ago, shows a hard life which is what it is, they were always going to be changed early, I'm happy with where these spots are. On most shells it's a lot larger and offset left which can tell a story, especially for pulley swaps that weren't mapped for.

I'll get the crank out later and take the block in to the machine shop.

so what next....
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Very interesting this Sean, lots to chat about when we catch up...
(y) as you can tell I'm back up here ;O) Not for long though, back down there for the 5th or 6th maybe for a few days possibly,
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
we've settled on the possibility that the bloomed area on bore 3 could well be down to the line you can see being a crack....

was at the engine shed today with it and once the surface was cleaned it didn't really change anything, you can actually see in the above pic the very slightly jagged nature of the line which is what we're looking at

so that cylinder is going to be test bored, we expect it will look the same as it's only going to take 0.25mm off, then it will most likely be sleeved, the block is far too good not to, it's rot free

I actually have several options for this car in terms of motor, only two are readily available though, and one of those more so than the other, which is the way it's now going, for the sake of it the others were:

1/ Bidsy's ex-turbo block which is in being sleeved anyway - not ready yet but sleeves have arrived, and it's queued

2/ Random donor block which is in to be bored - not ready yet as was waiting oversize Wossner pistons which arrived Tuesday am

3/ Wait for mine to be done

4/ Steal the Grey car's lump and use that - reluctant to use it without stripping, despite being built by Rooster Racing I'm aware he didn't do a lot to it, so I'd want to see stuff for myself, still it's right here so....

5/ A super low mile motor removed from an R52S before its first MOT - this is where we're going.... as a temporary motor

but....

this temp motor has sat around for many years ok, I only know what I was told which was that it had very low miles when removed, the trouble is whilst I could leak test it and scope it, I'd not be able to see enough, so last week while there was a customer here, we were talking about it and decided to dig it out from its hiding place, then I convinced myself the right thing to do was to remove the head, and the crank damper, and the sump, followed by rods and pistons, still yet to remove the timing cover. Basically, the inlet is still on it but hadn't been blocked up, same for exhaust ports, so I wanted to check for corrosion

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now this might well have some surface corrosion going on with the outside, yet on the inside it's remarkably unworn and has no corrosion. Even the piston skirts have next to no wear evident, these normally have some wear patches even with lower mile motors, here there's no sign of it, few light lines only. The crank is super clean, as are the rods, and rod bearings have barely a mark, so if I were to guess at mileage, I'd say may be 20k if that,

much thought over the last week has gone into whether I should just put this car back to stock, and I'm so close to doing that it would only take a change of wind direction I think, yet I held on (so far) to the knowledge this thing goes like stink and is just comical sometimes to drive, and I'd miss it if it were stock again, so the thought has been shelved for now, although it remains an inevitability, for now we will keep it mobile, and tuned.... a bit ;O)
 
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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so, the motor needs a bit of work to keep me entertained for a while

tuning options leave a choice of four heads, stock JCW, Allstage, and Cosworth of which there are two, or have a new head done which I'm doing anyway but it takes time so won't apply here, and Cosworth No.2 is on another motor, so that isn't either. Specs of the Allstage heads or the Cosworth are slightly different

again, some toing and froing went on over which and why, very hard to decide actually, I've run Allstage to 250whp+ already and haven't run a Cosworth, and don't really want to go backwards, which it is in terms of valve sizes, it has standard size valves at the moment, where the outgoing Allstage had larger exhaust, and the other has larger exhaust and inlet, also ex-Bidsy turbo actually

the Cosworth off the car has Cosworth springs under stock caps, and the Allstage has stock springs and caps, although I have Supertech beehive springs with Titanium caps here to use, so I considered this also, and have settled on using the Cosworth head with Cosworth springs, factoring in that it's a temporary motor.

actually, as the Cosworth head is in such a near new state, and the engine, I mentioned both for sale on fb, stock motor is 2k or 2.5 fitted, head is 3k or can be fitted if required, full motor with ARP head studs and cam bolt with my existing ZRP H rods and L19 bolt upgrade over ARP2000 (can be 2000's if required), would be 5.5k or 6k fitted, this is with a new EW02 camshaft, or any other in stock, PH1/2, PH2, 1302461, 1302469, EW03.

it's still here as expected although will remain available, it'll just get used and will have to come out again.... I swapped over my rods, refitted pistons, took the valve springs off the Cosworth head thinking I was going to fit the Supertech ones I'd opened and changed my mind so refitted those today. I'd already put little indents into the plug tubes giving lobes ~0.010 clearance, so the head can go back together, and when I fit the rod caps the bottom can go back on, I'll change timing cover seals regardless, and will add the head with the ARP stuff, then just clean a few areas up on the outside before fitting it to the car, not before adding my ATI damper, and GTT flywheel with its new ring gear, previous clutch disc and cover then I'll refit the dog box I think, for now....

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sure, the motor might seem steep to some but put into perspective when breakers might be selling sketchy history built up randomers for 600-1400 one like this that will likely as not never be found again is actually a very cheap option, it can be seen apart for a start, no bullshit one lady owner or never raced or rallied nonsense, it is what it is, a corrosion free block for starters, near mint crank with little to no signs of use, pistons after an abrasion free clean speak for themselves, and look at that head casting, sat around for years but a perfect donor for porting or just many years of longevity. Only my view though, waste of a beauty going into my car I think when I have other stuff I can use (Grey car), this would be better for someone else I think, but here it is and I'm going to use it if it's not snapped up. The Cossie head you simply won't ever find like this I suspect, the casting is pretty much in a new state, it's been used for a bit but is obviously preserved and worth more than I priced it at. All opinion though. When the motor comes back out it will be liberated and wrapped up again.
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I've managed not to change my mind again today馃槀, so carried on with assembly

rod caps on (super tight these with 55lbs ft compared to stock), oil pick up, sump, and motor sat up ready for head with ARP head studs in, these pull to 65lbs ft

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timing cover off, new main seal and a clean

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new rear main seal, wasn't showing any sign of a leak but wanted it new

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GTT alloy flywheel back on with the Helix disc it had, and OEM cover with bearing

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box got a bit of a wipe around. I noticed the bottom bush for the selector fork was tight due to rust at the bottom of the fork arm that had grabbed hold, so I cleaned it up to restore freedom

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just got to put my oil cooler assembly back on here, and the starter with harness

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I did check the charger oils, just as well, barely any in the back and front a little low, didn't change them, just topped up, PTO gears good, checked rotors, some wear in it but life in it, this is only a temp motor so things will get looked at again pretty soon

it is the dog box fitted now, very tempting to run with the quiet and lazy OEM LSD version but this one has the novelty value and is a lot livelier, it's just been stripped and checked and despite being available for sale might as well be in here for demo purposes or play time if I do decide to take it on track....

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just the timing cover to refit, and the tensioner plus ATI other than bits already mentioned, then it will go back in

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
the timing cover and ATI went back on, tensioner also

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didn't clean this off, any oily look about it isn't oil, it's a really sticky grease I apply from time to time in places, I do keep meaning to tidy up the scratches on the chassis leg though, but it comes apart so often I never do it ;O) One day I guess, hardly a problem area. I did refit the competition variant of the mount set.

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I didn't take more pics of progress, just wanted to get on with it,

(1) Facebook clip of initial start

(1) Facebook clip of exhaust end idling

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changed the throttle pedal and the housing, only after a spare housing got a refresh, this was because a few days later on cold start, it kept stalling out and had barely any throttle response, it wouldn't rev past 2k and had acquired a housing related code or two, and the pedal was only swapped for comparison while looking at a delay in the potentiometers, 1 vs 2, both were the same and currently the donor pedal is still on. The housing issue only did it that morning and wouldn't repeat, but as I wanted to take the car to Lytham Hall for an event I left the donor on and the car is ok like it.

before:

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after:

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tidy huh?

then a few finishing touches just because....

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that's how I've left things.... for now

so current aftermarket spec on the car is:

GTT 17% pulley
GTT catch can
ByteTroniK Full Access ECU software with Miniport
Innovate LC1 AFR gauge with logging for Miniport
GP intercooler and diverter
Mocal 16 row 235mm oil cooler with stainless hoses and no thermostat
Cosworth cylinder head with aftermarket standard size inlet and exhaust valves
Cosworth valve springs
EW02 fast road camshaft
JCW210/GP air intake
ITG air filter for above (replacement en route)
ATI Super Damper 0%
ZRP H beam connecting rods
ARP L19 connecting rod bolts
ARP camshaft bolt
ARP head studs/nuts
King Racing connecting rod bearings
GTT aluminium flywheel
Helix sprung clutch disc
OEM clutch cover and release bearing
Exclusive Workshops gear cluster with straight cut gears and involute cut dog engagement
Exclusive Workshops semi helical final drive conversion
Vibratechnics competition engine mount set
Canton coolant expansion tank with Stant lever vent cap
KW Club Sport coilovers, hybrid R56 set with R53 front top mounts
R56 trailing arms
R56 wheel bearings
11mm front wheel spacers
6mm rear wheel spacers
OEM R112 Challenge style wheels
R56 FJCW 280mm rear brakes
R56 handbrake cables
BMW performance Brembo 6pot monobloc front brake calipers with 330mm discs and Pagid RS29 pads
Goodridge braided brake hoses black coated, stainless version
EMU/Ultratech/ECU Master classic plug and play ECU in glove box
Coolerworx gear lever with synchronisation pin delete
Sparco Rev2 GRP seats
Race Safety Accessories FIA adjustable alloy seat side mounts (straight to floor)
Sparco road legal 4 point bolt in harnesses
Rear seat delete, floor carpeted over
Longer R56 wheel bolts
R56 trailing arm ABS sensor adapters
Yokohama AD08R 225/45r17 tyres
JCW cat back exhaust
Maniflow/Longman 4:2.1 stainless version exhaust manifold with AFR take off port
Power Flex Black series front lower arm rear bushes and steering rack bush
Front ARB delete with link rods
Hotchkis 25.5mm competition ARB
MFactory ATB differential
Magnecor competition plug leads
Bosch FRG5KQEO spark plugs
Bosch 550cc injectors with adapters
Oil cooler coolant supply pipe delete
Relocated OBD with extension
OEM Aux socket in glovebox
Temporary replacement engine bottom end less connecting rods

I think that's about it anyway.

No doubt this list will be sold off regardless, over time, I have all the original parts and the original block is being repaired, the Cosworth cylinder head remains for sale as does the full motor in the current spec as well, on fb. I have other parts to replace it. The gearbox is also available for sale if anyone is mad enough to run one, and the KW coilovers soon when LanSpeed kits arrive.

I still might alter the spec, I have another head as mentioned, that I was seriously tempted to install but felt like running the Cossie version first that's all....

It sounds good and drives well, I should call it the Hyena spec because it sounds like one when it's slowing down, due to the straight cut gearing 馃槀

I'll run it as it is for a bit, it barely gets used generally, I can see it's richer in a couple of areas than it should be, that'll get put right in a remap some time ;O)

Thanks for reading (y)
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
picked up my original block, they'd test re-bored the marked cylinder and all signs of the mark came out, so they did the other three and it's now +0.50mm, also had another in there for re-bore to the same size so brought both back, just waiting for the second set of pistons due anytime.

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I'll give my original one a clean, and will decide what to do with it if anything right away, car is running nicely as it is, although I'm happy to pull it apart again,

I'm unlikely to retrieve my rods from the block I've just used, although I might.... ;O)

I have the last two sets of the same H beam rods from ZRP, that's it now, there are no more, I'm inclined to sell on the other motor with them in, Cosworth head on or stock original, and use one of the new sets in this now it's back, if not both of them, and will use Wossner oversize pistons I'd given the machine shop to use for sizing,

that takes cars of rods and pistons, the rod bearings will be Mahle Motorsport this time I think, but.... I might just use them in conjunction with my ZRP crankshaft.

the other block will have King Race

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although this crank was sourced for my original, I had recently thought about using this crank in the sleeved block I'm waiting on, which was in a turbo converted car, then using the stronger 'I' beam rods in it with a view to having a turbo prepped motor a bit more resilient than most (hopefully) seeing as I have a turbo conversion here, then just fitted with the other Shed head I have, also off said turbo car with barely any use before it broke a ring land and the car got broken up, but I don't think I'm so likely to want to run a turbo lump as high as I am on a charged or NA one, so this would really be better staying in a charged spec motor as an upgrade I think....

actually, thinking about it I'll end up with five motors :unsure:

1/ temp one I just checked and used, maybe back to stock or just with ZRP 'H' forged rods and race bearings if I leave them in (maybe), its stock pistons, I might fit a second very nice JCW head I have to it perhaps and keep its original boxed or use for an additional future Shed head donor. Might sell this one.

2/ my original engine with a Shed head, ZRP H rods and L19 bolts again, ZRP billet crank, Wossner forged pistons, new oil pump, and fit another 'new' Shed head to that when it's done later on, that's only because I have a brand-new casting I intended to use for a donor, and new valves that have been here for ages waiting to go in it, just keep putting off taking it with covid stuff going on, then would use an EW02, or maybe the EW03 cam can be used with the later head.

3/ ex turbo one when sleeved, with ZRP 'I' rods I'm waiting for, its stock crank, race bearings, Cosworth head I've just used, Wossner forged standard size pistons are at the engineers, new oil pump, Newman PH3/4 camshaft liberated from the grey car.

4/ the spare just collected, ZRP H rods with ARP2000 bolts, race bearings, my oil pump, my stock crank, Wossner forged oversize pistons due soon, another JCW head here, EW02 cam. Might sell this one.

5/ the grey car's motor, yet to be stripped but it's coming out soon because I've sold the new TTV flywheel from it, and the gearbox is being converted to a final drive conversion as it's a FL BKL box, for use elsewhere I think, so the block will be out, stripped, checked, honed or re-bored, crank checked and used or swapped with a spare here (maybe it'll get a ZRP one also), ZRP 'I' beam rods with L19 bolts, another Cosworth head, EW02 cam, Wossner forged pistons, race bearings.

I'll end up with a head left over when the extra one gets done, which will likely be the Cosworth head from motor 3, which the Shed head from mine (2) will go back on, and that Cosworth one I would use on an R50 later maybe, I already know it ran one to over 170hp so would be a good start point if I find the right car to use later.

I've got everything to do the motors bar having the new casting ported and the I beam rods en route, and the pistons in whatever size I might need for the grey car's motor. I could sell the blocks of course, or just keep them here, but bare blocks just rust, it'd be far better to get them built and covered up like the one I just used.

Meanwhile, the Hyena spec car has worked well while used considerately, then yesterday I pushed it harder, and of course the long-term issue of it not revving out reared its head which it was bound to, up to that point it was not hanging about. I need to log this and send it to 1320 for them to see if there's anything that might stand out to them, it's definitely got an issue and one thing is clear, it's not the motor, as only the rods are the same, and the charger. The map needs review anyway.

I am tempted to give it to a guy who's mapped the generic files onto the R58's and R60, he has worked with Link ECU's anyway and it's tempting to stuff mine back on and see what he manages to do with it, he tunes a few Welsh rally cars and has his own 700hp Opel Manta and some other toys, used to work for a race/rally setup I can't remember the name of and just has a little unit on his own with help for some of the dyno work, not a decision yet, just saying it's on my mind, the last visit for tuning in Feb was nearly 1k with fuel etc, a full day with Antonio on the car 'finding' power, might be nearer 650 and involves no long distance driving. I'd probably still take it to 1320 later regardless for the BT map to be looked at and run up on their dyno with the Link map for the sake of comparison and no doubt some opinion:rolleyes:.

Also waiting for more VR head gaskets, so will have to use a couple of Elring options.... it can all wait until some gearbox conversion stuff is out of the way.

So, the thread isn't over just yet, it looks like it's going to come apart again :unsure:o_O:censored::oops::ROFLMAO:
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well the MOT passed, something out of the way....

car goes well, messing with an Audi S3 on the way back, safe to say the little car has completed a run in period ;O)

cost 拢20.90 to do ~80 miles so litres used, it's just over 29mpg with mixed driving including a demo run the other day, maybe that'd improve when the map gets tweaked, who knows.... when I was on track in June it was still over 30 after hooning around Ty Croes with a couple of Fiestas for a bit, was surprised it was up there,

need to find another test station by Christmas, as mine is closing, been going there 17yrs so it's going to be awkward finding somewhere for both cars or bikes that has a degree of lenience for certain stuff.... I went to one earlier and have kind of got bikes covered but the would be a hurdle with a couple of cars, I have a couple more options nearby,

anything due early 23 I'll get in before then I think, hindsight says I could have sorned this until Dec perhaps, testing it then, not like I actually use it but want to get the map looked at plus will end up at Maniflow for some work on an alternative system and revisit cat placement, also I was tempted with a track day in the cheaper season, there was one today I was going to do actually but happened to be the first test day available and mine had expired, was a wet day anyway though.

need to get steering wheel re-aligned, annoying me, very slightly off to the right which was a set up error last time, they've said they'll just sort it foc if I call, the guy who does all mine usually wasn't in when it was recently done, same day as Ty Croes actually, just one of those things, often not totally spot on but mine was....
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
went to Oulton Park on Saturday with some other Mini people, managed to get on for a bit in the afternoon

car still isn't mapped for the changes above, AFR kind of reflects the need for a tweak, it can be seen under load out of turns going from 12's to 13's and back to 12's etc, power is down a bit generally and the car still has its rpm limit issue, nonetheless, it went round pretty well, not too much slower overall compared to the last time round here which was Feb '19, I will look to get the map altered even though the motor won't be staying in

 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
had this remapped to suit the Cossie head and still power is off a cliff compared to where it was. so wanted to look at other bits that could have an influence

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the head isn't helping as the exhaust side porting isn't quite as aggressive as the head I had, and the exhaust valve size is standard, so having run the head now and although the car flies along nicely, it will get changed imminently for another Shed head I have here, similar in spec to the last just with slightly larger inlet valves. I'll fit this with Supertech beehive springs the same as my last one had, and will do something else to it that I have on the last few, then will see where we are

I noted some wear in the charger during the transfer of ancillaries when I swapped the engine, so changed it for a fresher one, didn't transfer my GTT pulley, instead although I don't favour the type I used a Kavs 17 for now, if there is no difference in performance I'll refit the original unit. Also a 60 odd k unit this like my original was low on oil in the PTO side, just shows that the 100k service thing is bullshit, chargers are a 50k item, I've seen plenty like this now, I was always planning to look at mine at 60k but the motor check got put back hence it was 63 by the time I did, gears on both are nice, no other concerns

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people say the pump has to come off, it doesn't

when this motor comes out I might clean off the bits of rust and paint it
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
got my sleeved block back so now all three are here

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I had the other two decked so they're a bit nicer for assembly, they'll get shown later

I also swapped my exhaust, the five year old JCW system collected today by it's new owner who knows how it sounds without a cat and who has driven my car with it (with the FD conversion not the dog box) as well as hearing it trackside, agreeing it's so much better than either version of a Milltek he's used so is selling those, no doubt I'll regret selling it as the sound was spot on, but I've wanted to use the replacement for a while, if I don't keep this I'll just get a new JCW system

we modified this today to tailor it to my car, extending the res pipe and slightly changing the flange angle, extending the link pipe Tig welding this part so it blends nicely, and cut down all the rear hangers and moved them a little, the result is it being lifted and a perfect flange fit, and notably a perfect placement at the new centre bump stops, the result is a nice fitting system that I still moved a little when home to lower the trims a bit, to get them away from the bumper trim, and I renewed the front gasket which didn't like being reused on this occasion, the system is Maniflow now all the way from the engine, and in stainless option, I'll run with it for a while no doubt before selling it on, it sounds nice, no boom, zero drone!

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Premium Member
2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
Joined
6,697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Automotive fuel system


 

Premium Member
2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
Joined
6,697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
decided to throw some paint at one of the engines

after a bit of a clean up with a wire bit on the outside

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cleaner on the inside

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red I think

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Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior


no primer, two coats so far on the smaller bit and one on the big bit, will probably end up with three or four I suspect

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will tidy up the edges when dry, might not assemble any yet, as will do some stuff on that other head ready to swap it, get it on as a temporary option then resume what I want to do with these, just wanted to get them kind of ready to do more with, will see what time there is

this particular one is an ex turbo block, this is the one I've had sleeved back to stock size but honed for forged std size pistons, it was in Bidsy26's car originally, I chose to save it, it will be a good base.
 
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