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OldBrokenWind's Thumper head, GT28RS, & Alta "stuff"

22K views 74 replies 20 participants last post by  oldbrokenwind 
#1 ·
The following attachment is a 4-page pdf diary or log of what I've done to my R56. it's still a work in progress, but most of the planned upgrades are installed. I'll update it as milestones are reached. Hope it's useful to other newbies.

View attachment OldBrokenWind's log : diary.pdf
 
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#2 ·
#3 ·
Great results...

Thumper
 
#10 · (Edited)
Nick.. be careful, the BHP isnt the same as WHP?? Yes??

330 Brake is ruffly 284 WHP. , even that dyno shows a 321 BHP ( 276 WHP)corrected, and 306 BHP engine (253 WHP )

Again it goes back to the type dyno, and the way the numbers are given. Either way the 276-282 WHP / 232 Tq is freaking awesome. And this isnt a 'shop owner' he is just a guy like all of us.. also if you note, he DID have some issues he was still working on.. all I have to say, is I would have to SPRAY him to beat HIM!! LOL

Like I said befor.. awesome results!!!

Just me....................

Thumper
 
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#12 ·
Cool... we dont use the BHP here in the US. It was either a Mustang Dyno ( like 1320 ) or a Dynojet (like Mynes), or maybe another type Hub dyno... if he said HP it is a WHP number if it came from a chassie dyno.. cool??

Cool numbers though.. yes??

Thumper
 
#18 ·
We in the US use the WHP numbers.. if you search out all the OLD posts on dynos.. ( and there are a bazillion) from past posts here MT, you will see... cool??

The US is all about power to the wheels and not power to the crankshaft ( BHP) this has been like this since the 70s when US manufactures started posting WHP to get lower numbers for insurance purposes, then of course they went back to BHP..LOL

Zoooo.. if it doesnt specifically say BHP, here in the US, off an aftermarket Dyno for tuning performance, it IS WHP!! Chassis dyno is easier to transport to tracks, and cheaper for the guys wanting Numbers... imagine if you removed the engine everytime you wanted to dyno ( or have math to calculate.. vs actual wheels on the ground..)

As for the r56 power.. I know now I'd better have a full bottle if one chooses me up!1 LOL

Just me............................

Thumper
 
#14 ·
My ignorance is showing --- I don't quote BHP or WHP because I don't know which it is. I also didn't ask the tuners what kind of dyno was used, even tho I watched them tune it. The dyno chart can be viewed on Dyno Database Online --- I have (or had) the only 2007 Mini on this site. As a side note, a second map was created for 17 - 20 PSI boost. The dyno results were not available for posting on their site, but produced 282HP and either 236 or 238 ft/lb (my memory is shot). The chart is of similar shape to the one posted, just slightly higher numbers.

I'm aware of other R56's that claim up to 350 HP (probably WHP) because they have extensive engine upgrades --- bored & stroked, cams, pistons, etc. and can handle the extra power. As a "newbie" to the Mini world, I'm reluctant to go inside the engine --- no special tools or experience w/FWD. And I prefer to do all my own work. Thumpers TPR1 was the exception, I paid for dealer expertise. Without the base engine upgrades, I'm probably close enough to the safe limits of HP. This is also a car that can be driven quietly and safely around town, and still get 35 - 40 MPG on a long trip.

Yes, I'm still getting a specific cel --- P2885, when I'm careless about downshifting to accelerate. With practice, I'll eventually overcome this bad habit. Just gotta drive more aggressively!
 
#19 ·
Justa bump.. there was a discussion on the "TYPE" HP was shown on the Dyno. According to the Cobb Site, it is a WHP off of their 'Mustang Dyno"

Just me...........................................

Thumper
 
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#21 ·
Here's a quote from Cobb, after I asked them about the dyno ---
"The dyno we used to tune your car is a Mustang MD-500 AWD."

I was afraid there would be doubters out there. If you can get an R56 to breathe properly, and tuned, you too can get this kind of power. The 3" exhaust is catless, just an Alta muffler and a couple big resonators. It's a damn shame the AP won't work on the European versions. There's probably other people out there that rework cylinder heads, but Thumper has a really sweet product!

Just added the new Aquamist HFS-4, and waiting for a new AP map to run a 50 / 50 mix. Looking to get some cooling to the pistons. Using the latest AP firmware (April 2012) to lose the 20psi boost limit in the ECU. A test run produced 23.5psi, and this is NOT a JCW! Now, if I don't self-destruct this thing, I've gotta get another dyno tune to handle the extra boost. So far, I'm keeping the MBC at about 20 and using the "butt dyno" to adjust the WMI system. Still on my first tank of mix, so I'm just getting started. Seems to be running smoother in traffic, 'course that's what I want to believe ---
 
#28 ·
???? sure.. and the intake design is what?? or the intake valve is what?? Or the injecter is where WHY?? or the ECU doesnt do what.. or does it!!

I think you are just a guy that is out to trash someones results and numbers.. I would sugest you SHOW.. either thru Links, or diagrams WTF you think you know.. or STFU!! ( three posts and all..LOL)

Just saying...

Thumper
 
#32 ·
what did the post say?
 
#34 ·
You are all talking theory here, (theory is good, I like it) but I like better talking in practice...
Have a read here what a modified head combined with valves and cams can do...
Just to clarify...this head is not modified by Thumper. It is made in Greece by a close friend of mine.
Interesting... see this OFF the build page noted in post one!


While looking for cams, I found Thumper Performance, a source for reworking cylinder
heads. Personal opinion, this is a “must-have” upgrade
! There are other sources for
similar work, but this guy has the references and experience. I could either send him my
cylinder head (gone for at least a month), or find a core for him to upgrade, then make
the switch. Originally, I wanted to change the head myself, but after looking at a repair
manual, I found that special tools / fixtures are needed. Iʼm equipped to work the old
“elephant engines”, but not these variable timing, ECU driven, high tech wonders. So,
after he put me in contact with a previous customer, I obtained a TPR1, his upgraded
head with stock size valves, drove it to my local dealer, and paid
a small fortune to have
them change heads. Very labor intensive! Found out the hard way that camshaft
bearing caps are part of each head and NOT interchangeable between heads.
While arranging for the Thumper head, I bought other upgrades and had them delivered
for me to install after the head installation. So I only drove with the Thumper head for a
few miles before shutting down for more upgrades
. The driving was not severe, just
casual, around town stuff, but the improvement was remarkable.

I Know nothing about a custom made head for this car...??( other than the TPR Ported Head)

And this stuff rocks.. 'cept it isnt in the runners on the head. Also the DI has the special PISTON Top to help with swirl and mixing... but there is NOTHING in the cylinder head that would cause engie fuel issues with the runners/throats/ and perofrmance valve job being ported and smoothed.

Patent EP0842352B1 - Intake system for a stratified charge engine - Google Patents

Interesting stuff though.. lol Just not on a r56 cylinder head.

Thumper
 
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