Mysticarl's R53 project
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One question I've had on my mind for ages, it seems really high to have the coolant fan come on at 105C ish - wouldn't it be better to have it kick in earlier? Like 90C or something. The aftermarket coolant switches for rad fans seem to try and keep 80-90C temperature range, which would also have the knock-on effect of keeping heat soak into the intercooler lower I'd assume?
Part 2 of that thought is maybe having the low speed fan come on also linked to IAT, so if it goes above a certain delta value from atmospheric it would kick in (maybe capped at a vehicle speed so it wouldn't try and help at 100mph but would help with heat recovery at lower speeds).
Anyone have any thoughts/experience on those?
Part 2 of that thought is maybe having the low speed fan come on also linked to IAT, so if it goes above a certain delta value from atmospheric it would kick in (maybe capped at a vehicle speed so it wouldn't try and help at 100mph but would help with heat recovery at lower speeds).
Anyone have any thoughts/experience on those?
I'll do some experimentation on that once everything's back in one piece, anyway.
Sump gasket is changed, no surprises other than a small hole in the screen of the oil pickup tube so that'll be replaced assuming you can't just change the screen itself. The sump was clean, not a single bit of anything metallic or lumpy. Cylinder walls look fine too.
One issue I do have though is trying to get the damper bolt out, it's not budging yet. I'll need to put back the lower engine mount onto the sump before trying again with a larger bar. I borrowed an impact tool I thought would do the job (around 350ft lb) but no dice.
Sump gasket is changed, no surprises other than a small hole in the screen of the oil pickup tube so that'll be replaced assuming you can't just change the screen itself. The sump was clean, not a single bit of anything metallic or lumpy. Cylinder walls look fine too.
One issue I do have though is trying to get the damper bolt out, it's not budging yet. I'll need to put back the lower engine mount onto the sump before trying again with a larger bar. I borrowed an impact tool I thought would do the job (around 350ft lb) but no dice.
Sooo as well as all the other bits, my supercharger pulley is not seated fully so tonight I've got the fun task of trying to get it off and check what's going on. I'm sure it'll just slide off really easily with no issues whatsoever! 
I've seen the fun and games others have with that so could be a fun evening!
On a more positive side, new crank damper, timing chain tensioner, idle pulley and belt tensioner all done, as well as new oil, and a replacement power steering fan.
I've seen the fun and games others have with that so could be a fun evening!On a more positive side, new crank damper, timing chain tensioner, idle pulley and belt tensioner all done, as well as new oil, and a replacement power steering fan.
Back on the road
After a bit of a fight I got the old pulley off and the new one on. Fecking thing, really didn't want to come off!
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When it was all back together I took it for an initial run and was still feeling some vibration under hard acceleration I had before, even though I'd raised the car up a little. Tonight I raised it another 10mm at the front and went for another run, and I couldn't feel any more vibrations even at WOT. Lots of pull though! Back up to 14.7psi at around 6k when a short while ago was down at around 12.
So pretty happy overall before going to 1320 this week for the cam, 550's and tune.
I don't think I'll be changing anything else before 1320, but a new top engine mount is now on my list. Even though it's not bottomed out or evidence of oil, I noticed I could easily move the rubber back and forth when the engine was raised off it. Probably vibra technics road, and will look at the other mounts as well. I've still got 3 weeks until Snetterton so hopefully will be on by then!
After a bit of a fight I got the old pulley off and the new one on. Fecking thing, really didn't want to come off!
When it was all back together I took it for an initial run and was still feeling some vibration under hard acceleration I had before, even though I'd raised the car up a little. Tonight I raised it another 10mm at the front and went for another run, and I couldn't feel any more vibrations even at WOT. Lots of pull though! Back up to 14.7psi at around 6k when a short while ago was down at around 12.
So pretty happy overall before going to 1320 this week for the cam, 550's and tune.
I don't think I'll be changing anything else before 1320, but a new top engine mount is now on my list. Even though it's not bottomed out or evidence of oil, I noticed I could easily move the rubber back and forth when the engine was raised off it. Probably vibra technics road, and will look at the other mounts as well. I've still got 3 weeks until Snetterton so hopefully will be on by then!
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When I was modding and selling the top mounts, I had plenty that had no oil leaks and when opened up, had no oil in either!Back on the road
After a bit of a fight I got the old pulley off and the new one on. Fecking thing, really didn't want to come off!
![]()
When it was all back together I took it for an initial run and was still feeling some vibration under hard acceleration I had before, even though I'd raised the car up a little. Tonight I raised it another 10mm at the front and went for another run, and I couldn't feel any more vibrations even at WOT. Lots of pull though! Back up to 14.7psi at around 6k when a short while ago was down at around 12.
So pretty happy overall before going to 1320 this week for the cam, 550's and tune.
I don't think I'll be changing anything else before 1320, but a new top engine mount is now on my list. Even though it's not bottomed out or evidence of oil, I noticed I could easily move the rubber back and forth when the engine was raised off it. Probably vibra technics road, and will look at the other mounts as well. I've still got 3 weeks until Snetterton so hopefully will be on by then!
If it wiggles - its knackered.
If you can weld, its very easy to make youre own vibratechnic.
I'll have to pull the mount and see what sort of state the underneath is. I've not welded before but I have access to the kit so I could always give it a go. I'd have thought the PU would be solid enough when set not to need welding any holes drilled for it, assuming drilled from above? Or do you need to split the entire mount in half to do it?
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2,595 Posts
R53 Hydraulic Engine Mount Mod
I have split my old engine mount. The oil section is a very small aspect of the oe build, the majority is rubber and about as much air as oil. 2 sealing rings would prevent pouring liquid rubber in through the top as it woudnt get to all areas. Cut some bits out, cleaned it up, welded back...
www.minitorque.com
Others have tried it but been unsuccessful, so I would definitely encourage you to copy mine. I made about 30 and only one buyer wasnt satisfied.
Thanks Maccmike, the mod does look good. If I can make the time before Snetterton I'll give the mount the once-over and see what I might be able to achieve with it.
I'm at 1320 tomorrow to hopefully make some extra power, looking forward to it but also hoping I don't end up with an enormous list of extra things to sort out afterwards!
I'm at 1320 tomorrow to hopefully make some extra power, looking forward to it but also hoping I don't end up with an enormous list of extra things to sort out afterwards!
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779 Posts
Great news on resolving the vibration and low boost issues!
Seem to be quite a few vibratechnics failing and the customer service being quite poor. Particularly with those that may be old stock and been on a shelf for a while yet only recently sold.
From what I've seen when searching the forum previously Mike's mounts are really good, so a great base to copy. Then you only have yourself to blame and chase down if it goes wrong 😂
Seem to be quite a few vibratechnics failing and the customer service being quite poor. Particularly with those that may be old stock and been on a shelf for a while yet only recently sold.
From what I've seen when searching the forum previously Mike's mounts are really good, so a great base to copy. Then you only have yourself to blame and chase down if it goes wrong 😂
Useful info on the vibra mounts, thanks for that. I think I'm going to get an OEM one and have a go with the old one to PU it up when I get the time - a new stock one will definitely be an improvement over mine at the moment!
Anyone know if there's anything specifically magic about the M10 x 125mm bolt? I'm sure mine will be buggered Doesn't seem to mention it's anything special on RealOEM so I'm assuming any 8.8 bolt should do the trick with a spring washer and maybe a touch of threadlock?
My trip to 1320 was good yesterday. No major issues other than knowing now that my thermostat is stuck open so I'll be fitting my new one I picked up a year ago.
My initial power with just the 15% pulley was just under 180whp with no leaning out even at high rpm, so I'm assuming at this point that it's had a tune in the past or there'd be issues there?
Cam and injectors then changed with no problems. Some wear on cylinder 1 exhaust lobe so seems good timing for the change! Everything else looked fine including chain guides, etc.
After some tuning I'm now at 198whp (228bhp) at around 7k. Still on stock intercooler, manifold and head so still some extra power to be had there at some point in the future.
Main thing for me was to make sure the engine was running 'safely' at all rpm without having to worry about leaning out at high RPM (other things can go wrong of course) so at Snetterton I'll feel happy pushing the rpm in a couple of places
Anyone know if there's anything specifically magic about the M10 x 125mm bolt? I'm sure mine will be buggered Doesn't seem to mention it's anything special on RealOEM so I'm assuming any 8.8 bolt should do the trick with a spring washer and maybe a touch of threadlock?
My trip to 1320 was good yesterday. No major issues other than knowing now that my thermostat is stuck open so I'll be fitting my new one I picked up a year ago.
My initial power with just the 15% pulley was just under 180whp with no leaning out even at high rpm, so I'm assuming at this point that it's had a tune in the past or there'd be issues there?
Cam and injectors then changed with no problems. Some wear on cylinder 1 exhaust lobe so seems good timing for the change! Everything else looked fine including chain guides, etc.
After some tuning I'm now at 198whp (228bhp) at around 7k. Still on stock intercooler, manifold and head so still some extra power to be had there at some point in the future.
Main thing for me was to make sure the engine was running 'safely' at all rpm without having to worry about leaning out at high RPM (other things can go wrong of course) so at Snetterton I'll feel happy pushing the rpm in a couple of places
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779 Posts
Good to know it's running healthy and good results with the mods you have. What cam did you go for, and what changes have you felt through the rev range?
Went for the catcam 469, doesn't feel wildly different to be honest just pulls better and from a little earlier than before. I'll have better feedback when I've driven it a little more! It sounds a little different at the exhaust too but that may be more in my mind rather than reality. I'll take a pic of the wear on the old cam later as well.
On Snetterton, it was the approaches to Palmer and Agostini that I felt forced to take an extra gear when if I could run to 6500+ I'd have been able to avoid a change up. I'm sure in the summer with more grip in the corners I may still have issues now I should be able to carry more speed but we'll see!
On Snetterton, it was the approaches to Palmer and Agostini that I felt forced to take an extra gear when if I could run to 6500+ I'd have been able to avoid a change up. I'm sure in the summer with more grip in the corners I may still have issues now I should be able to carry more speed but we'll see!
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